Tadpoledancer profile

The Hope support guy who answered me suggested getting some “in spec” hope hubs. Would it be cynical of me to think that they make the callipers slightly different than the industry standard (if there is such a thing) to make people buy their stuff?

I’ve got a set of Tech 4 V4s and I really love them. Perfect compromise between power and modulation, and they look like jewellery. 

But there is something weird about the callipers and centre lock hubs. I’ve had the same issue as you with being unable to centre the calliper over the rotor when running I9 Hydras with centre lock SRAM hs2 200mm discs. Weirdly it was only an issue on the rear hub. Contacted Hope, and they claimed my hubs were “out of spec” which I really doubt, especially when I read of others with a similar issue. Never had the same problem with other manufacturers, and I’ve run the same wheelset with other brakes.  

I must admit that I just kept running the brakes aligned, but uncentered, and it seems to be all good, but I don’t know if I’m doing something stupid?

I kinda like the way the Ibis Oso has integrated high quality lights. Might as well when you’re riding around with a huge battery between your legs. Too bad the bike is incredibly expensive for the kit.

Great review and photos! Would be nice to have a proper picture of the bike as well. 

Interesting how the bike feels so stable, bike geometries works in mysterious ways.

As you have mentioned here, some rubber on the CP for better hand comfort, and a grip that’s a bit thicker would be great improvements for a good product. 

The only significant downside for me has been me denting the doorframe with the CP multiple times when I carry the bike inside after the ride.  

Another really small annoyance has been if I ride through some really overgrown sections of trail, where I will place my hands further in on the handlebars to avoid the branches/plants, the CPs would grab hold of the thin branches and bring them a bit closer to the hands. Safety wise it’s totally worth it though.

The real question is how filthy rich you would have to be to get Dangerholm to build your bike.

I’m kinda curious about that as well? Will a 13 mm difference in length in the chain stay actually make a significant difference in the front/rear balance of the bike. Anyone with experience from bikes with flip-chips on the chainstay?

In a recent episode of the Downtime Podcast, some Magura employees were saying that the name of the “two finger lever” was very misleading as it works great with one finger. I think the name is there because it is also used for more consumer oriented bikes as well, where customers might want two fingers on the brake as that’s what they are used to. 

They should change it to “long lever” or something.

You touched briefly upon it, but does the ground-huggieness of the bike make it less playful? Seems like it works great on bigger jumps, bit how about popping of smaller features along the trail?

Great read, and I’m hoping to get my hands on some WPL lube, no need to use toxic stuff if alternatives exist.

But I’ll have to inform you that Nøkken is not a shape shifting troll, but a different kind of creature from the underworld, residing in lakes waiting to pull you under. So take care next time you feel something touching your legs while swimming in your local lake.

Posted by: velocipedestrian

I swapped from a Speshy Phenom to a WTB volt and had to shim my Oneup down to 200mm - so the Phenom could give you a few mm if it suits your taint.

Cheers, thats a good tip.

Posted by: Hepcat

Posted by: Tadpoledancer

I upsized my latest bike, and I'm pretty happy, but currently stuck with a 160 mm dropper, which is a bit too short in my opinion.

I'm considering going for a oneup dropper on the seatpost side, but would also like to optimize my saddle to get the seat as far down as possible. Unfortunately its really hard to find any data about the stack height on saddles. 

From what I've found so far, some of the WTB saddles seem relatively low. Also the relatively recent Nukeproof Horizon Enduro saddle is marketed as being optimized for a low stack height, but they don't state any actual measurements.

If someone has some input on this it would be greatly appreciated.

Assuming a non-chamois rider?

Yep, no chamois here.

Posted by: andy-eunson

Careful with low stack seats on a Oneup. I resolved a clicking issue on mine caused by the seat shell contacting the top of the clamp head. That was with a Trek seat that came on my Remedy.

Cheers, that is some great advise. I wonder if the cutout on say the Nukeproof Horizon Enduro saddle might help with that issue?

I upsized my latest bike, and I'm pretty happy, but currently stuck with a 160 mm dropper, which is a bit too short in my opinion.

I'm considering going for a oneup dropper on the seatpost side, but would also like to optimize my saddle to get the seat as far down as possible. Unfortunately its really hard to find any data about the stack height on saddles. 

From what I've found so far, some of the WTB saddles seem relatively low. Also the relatively recent Nukeproof Horizon Enduro saddle is marketed as being optimized for a low stack height, but they don't state any actual measurements.

If someone has some input on this it would be greatly appreciated.

I think the gx Eagle crankset seems like a pretty nice deal. Cheap (includes a chain ring), multiple arm lengths and weighs pretty much exactly the same as the race face turbines.