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Heinous's posts

59 posts found

Aug. 2, 2020, 4:17 a.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: Coil vs Air shock

Posted by: DemonMike

Posted by: Vikb

I have a coil fork and shock on my FS biker [Guerrilla Gravity Smash] they are great. I just sold my older FS bike which was dual air and it had great suspension as well. I have no immediate plans to buy another FS bike, but if you threw a bunch of money at me today I'd get a short travel 29er built up light with dual air suspension. Both types of springs are found in excellent suspension products today. I don't see a clear winner. I'd pick air or coil as I considered the overall package every time I got a new bike.

Air still leaks over time I find. Coil set-it and leave it. If you need a climb switch for your air shock. IMO one should just go coil. I still prefer the coil on my 120mm bike. Ya it could be lighter . But so could I hahaha :)

Springs fatigue too. 

I see the main advantage of coil being vastly less friction - I know modern air is getting really good, but the ability to have such low break away changes how I can set up a bike. With the exception of my BOS Kirk a few years ago, I've not ridden a shock that really felt like it had coil levels of break away sticktion.

July 28, 2020, 9:24 p.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: Coil vs Air shock

I was so disappointed with the Rockshox unit in my Devinci Spartan (27.5) that I decided to go coil. No one could get trunnion at the time easily so I ended up with a sweet discount on a Push 11.6. It's incredible, totally transformed the bike and it was the first time that I noticed my air sprung 36  couldn't keep up with the rear.

The bike got stolen, I was gutted. I replaced it with a 29" spartan but couldn't justify the extra $$ on a coil at the time. Luckily, my stolen bike was recovered and I transferred the Push over, even though the 29" spartan isn't a supported bike for the Push tunes. 

Long story short, I sent the push for a service and it came back with a little note saying it had a secret sauce tune for the 29. The whole service was $250 or so and included new parts throughout. The improvement in what was already an awesome ride is sweet. When I factor in that kind of service, service cost, and performance it feels like a bargain. The thing works so well I ended up putting a Smashpot  coil in my fork so it would keep up better.

I think I'd probably run coil on anything 120mm or more now.

July 27, 2020, 7:53 p.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: Handguards?

If clipping a pinky, one possible helper would be the ergon GE grips. The end of the grip is angled so they glance off trees etc rather than snag. A side effect of that is that  the grip's leading edge is slightly narrowing than the trailing, so when hand is one grip there's actually a buffer zone. 

Alternately, or in addition, I'd considering moulding a tiny bit of sugru towards the end of the grip as a kinaesthetic reminder of width  and hand position. I had a head and spine injury a long time back and used to struggle with the same (it's a form of what's referred to as neglect). I ended up riding in white gloves for years as a way of having clear edges I could pay attention to. It worked really well.

July 20, 2020, 5:37 p.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: Wheel build

Also - make sure you check the max tension of the hub as well as the rim - some of the carbon rims have higher tension rating that hubs. Don't aim for max tension - maybe ask the rim manufacturer what their target tension is.

July 20, 2020, 5:35 p.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: Wheel build

Is it a front or rear? Front can be done ok in a fork. Rear's a bit less so.

New nipples, don't reuse. Asides from building with old nipples being a shit experience, they fatigue. Nipple washers are one of the ways god shows us that he loves us.

The  cheap Park gauge is useful - use it as instructed, not ignoring the numbers above. At tension 1/8th of of a turn can make a large difference in tension and you may not feel it. Uneven tension kills wheels far moreso than anything else. A dishing tool is also highly recommended. 

Last tip - once you've built the wheel and it's as you want it, fit the tubeless tyre and then readjust tension. Wheels lose a fair bit of tension when a tubeless tyre is installed and I seem plenty of home built and even workshop built wheels lose tension rapidly  on the first ride if this isn't done. I'm not a fan of prolock, but tend to soak all my batches of nipples in T9 until it evaporates off to wax. 

Leonard Zinn's books have really good wheel building instructions - it's a great resource.

One tip I appreciate from my  novice days is that when it starts to go wrong or get weird and you can't work it out, back everything off a quarter or half turn and start fresh. It's very easy to persevere and continually put more tension in to the wheel trying to chase something and next thing you'll be rounding off nipples or cracking the rim.

June 26, 2020, 8:28 p.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: Short travel 29'ers

Posted by: skooks

Posted by: Heinous

Knolly Fugitive really excites me.

I have been riding a Fugitive LT since February and really like it. It's my first 29er and I was worried it wouldn't be very agile.  I have to say I am suprised at how good it feels in this regard, and how well it handles low speed jank.

When I spoke to Knolly they hadn't had any of the new DHX2's through so weren't recommending them for the Fugitive. I have a feeling that bike  would be awesome with a capable coil in it, especially with some of the new options running hydraulic bottom out / ramp up. A raw builder edition just keeps whispering to me.

June 22, 2020, 8:08 p.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: Maxxis DHF MaxxGrip or Assegai MaxxGrip

I have. I found that it's very touchy to braking up front. I explain that by looking at the massive braking paddles and the fact it's essentially designed as a braking device - I never managed to adapt my riding to it.

June 22, 2020, 8:05 p.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: Short travel 29'ers

I was super close to a new Fugitive LT with one of the new X2's right as Covid hit. It's hurt me pretty badly on the work front so I'm just waiting patiently. I really rate the design and build.

June 21, 2020, 6:21 p.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: Short travel 29'ers

Knolly Fugitive really excites me.

May 14, 2020, 5:54 p.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: Knolly bearings replacement

When it does seize, using PB Blaster will work great and massively reduce the risk of collateral damage swinging a sledge hammer at your bike.

May 14, 2020, 5:51 p.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: Wide, flared gravel bars

I really like front derailleurs on CX / gravel bikes. I’ve been running ultegra Di2 since it came out for cx, upgrading to hydro DI2 when that came out. For long, steady gravel rides etc the gear spacing and range is really nice.

May 10, 2020, 4:21 a.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: NSMB 2020 - Full Suspension Bike Thread

DHf is great on the back, does well with roots, rolls fast. Doesn’t brake quite like a DHr, but not bad.

May 10, 2020, 4:20 a.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: Wide, flared gravel bars

Yep. I tend to develop angry elbows around silly bars racing.

May 7, 2020, 9:56 p.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: NSMB 2020 - Full Suspension Bike Thread

I was so close to ordering  a Fugitive LT Builder ed the week the lockdown etc all hit the fan. I'm glad I didn't, but it's still top of my list for do it all rigs.

May 7, 2020, 9:55 p.m.
Posts: 59
Joined: May 1, 2018
Re: Wide, flared gravel bars

Geo (trail) and tyres play a massive part. I just find on all my gravel/cx bikes I run 40cm, but I do have a track background with drops. I run 760-780 on mtbs.

Having said that I find with hydro discs I don't need the drops for brake leverage and am happy on the tops 90% of the time. 

If you can't decide between drops and flat bars, there's always this:

https://www.curvecycling.com.au/products/walmer-bars?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9tSgqbyj6QIV0xwrCh1vswAfEAAYASAAEgLKV_D_BwE

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