Andrew, yeah, I think for your "avg" trail riding setup 15-17 degrees is about where it's at once you've tried a bar with more than 9 degrees of sweep (FYI, think I mentioned, but tried the Salsa 11degree and didn't notice much difference to the regular 9), but if you're setting up a more pedal oriented type bike for longer rides/bike packing etc, more sweep is more better.
Hahaha. Saw that after I posted here, was going to come back and post al ink to it. Pretty interesting, because honestly, can't see how or imagine that people's hands don't come off their wrists at more of angle to warrant bigger sweep, but guess you are never too old to learn something. That being said, not a lot, heck, no one has ever hoped on my Unit with the 16 degree bars and not commented on how nice it feels.
How they did it was cool, but honestly, I just rest my palms on the top of the grips on pedal sections and you just automatically see your hands are at more of an angle than the avg bars sweep, hence why I'm curious to try a 23 sweep bar, as looking at my hands I'd say they're somewhere around 25-27 but think that would be a bit too much sweep for technical riding.
You won't regret going to the 16 degree, trust me, although, saying that, you might because when you try to go back lesser sweep, you might not be happy - Just had that experience myself. Haven't done anything but commuting less than 3 miles since Feb and lockdown here, did my first ride back on the 29+ rigid with the 16 degree and had no issues, did my 1nd ride on the 130/140 FS with regular 9 degree bars and wrists started to ache not long into the ride once I hit trails - definitely not good for more pedally rides where you're seated and not in the attack position.
Hey Pete, thanks for the tip on the sale, unfortunately not too applicable to me down here, but will take a look at that model. Sorry, meant a saw not serrated, use that quite a lot to trim branches poking into the trail etc and sometimes for bigger stuff.
Oh and little anecdote to the topic - went out on my 2nd proper ride since we locked down sometime beginning of Feb and decided to take the Prime out, had been playing around with it, decided to try a different stem, thought I'd compensated for the slightly different stack height, but found out I hadn't once I hit the rough stuff and noticed a slight knocking. Stopped and checked for what it was and headset wasn't quite pre-loaded enough, opened up the "essentials" pouch and pulled out a 2.5mm spacer, put that in there and voila, perfect, glad I didn't decide to "pair down" and leave that little essential at home.
OK, so seems that there's still quite a few of us out there despite what the marketing depts would like us to believe. The one thing I always carry is my trusty, original Leatherman multi tool, had it since I think '94 or '95 and it's served me well, but the thing is a tank weight wise and I've suffered a broken retaining spring on one side, which somewhat relegates the tools to not being so useful. So my question is, what tool would give me almost the same sort of range as the original Leatherman tool, but maybe be a bit lighter? Must have the serrated and straight blade, saw, [hilips, flat and can opener.
Oh and yes, I also carry a few headset spacers for those wannbe mechanics who didn't cut their steerer quite right and/or put enough of the proper height and didn't manage to properly pre-load the bearings and hence are getting play and can't figure why. Also few common size M4&5 bolts, rotor/cleat bolts, get me home worn brake pads, valve stem, valve cores, 10/11/12 speed quick links, velcro straps, cable ties, pad spacer blocks and I'm sure I'm forgetting much :-D
Nothing that's been "raised" is anything I think about, because a good dog owner would make sure the ride suited the dog in terms of speed and length and that everyone knew and was OK with it. Good dog owners clean up after their 4 legged friends and have them properly trained if they're going to take them out on the trail with other users.
But then again, maybe it's just my old fashioned up bringing that I would assume that people would not only think of themselves and be courteous to others in regards to taking their pup on a ride, taking their kid on a ride, arriving late to the ride, arriving with a bike that isn't working, not kitted and ready to ride, brings a friend to ride and then zooms ahead leaving said friend behind for others to "look after", stops all the time to answer calls or messages etc, etc.....
Actually, I used to basically ride solo with my Bud because he just couldn't handle higher speeds or longer than 7 miles, on occasion I'd ride with a friend or two who knew and liked him, but as always (as I expect any good dog parent would do), it was a ride that I "called" and they knew he was coming. If anyone had a problem and it was "my ride" then they could find their own ride, simple as that, as I was taking my Bud for a trail ride and those who wanted to tag along, came.
No where did I ever say that a dog should be on every ride, but then I also assumed that if a dog was coming on a ride, the owner would have let the group know and anyone who objected had the ability to choose not to attend if everyone else was OK with it.
As to the dog being allowed inside the cab of a truck shuttling, don't know about that, not one to shuttle, but if I did, I'd have no problem sitting in the tray with my pup. I am still hopeful to one day rescue one that's big enough and lends itself to proper training so I can have a all ride trail buddy.
Not mad at all, just don't understand why they need to hind behind a complete fictional name instead of talking to their riding buddies is all.
Actually Cam, you can search the internet and you'll find that handle anywhere I post, it's my abbreviated name since I was a youngster, no one calls me by my full given name.
Going to have to read through the replies later, bet they'll be interesting, but just wanted to commiserate with you Andrew, most of the stuff I carry with me I hardly ever use, normally it's to fix someone else's bike. But, also like you, I don't like to have to walk my bike for any reason, even if it's something might only happen once in 5 or 10 years, so my pack is always way heavier than it needs to be. Unlike you, I generally like to keep my already not light bikes free of stuff strapped to them to add weight, 'cept for a spare tube under the saddle of all my bikes and my mini pump on my Unit.
Yeah, I'm going to have to agree with you on this one. Sadly I don't have a trail dog anymore (lost him a little over 2 years ago) but when I did, he loved going on the trail. He was a smaller dog, so didn't take him on "rip" rides and yes, if he hadn't been on the trail in a while it took him a bit to remember proper trail etiquette, but he would after a bit. Those who take their dogs on trail, in groups, that are not properly trained, yes are going to be asking/causing a bit of trouble most likely, but most trail dogs are better behaved than most people's kids and everyone has to put up with those things all the time.
I'm curious who the person is posting this who doesn't have the cahones to post with their real name? If you don't like riding with people and their dogs, then be honest and tell your friends, if they're really your friends, then they'll understand and not invite you along on those rides. Or is that the problem you're afraid no one will invite you on rides because of how you think and most of your "friends" have and love to ride with their dogs?
Save everyone the hassle, post under your real name so people don't have to listen to your bitchin and moaning on a ride if one or more bring their 4 legged children.
First up DAYAMN, that bike is super sweet, but then again, like the owner, I have a lust for Ti since I started riding MTBs in 2004 and a guy had a sweet Ti HT - unfortunately 2 sizes too small to nick :-D I have since lusted after owning a custom Ti, but just can't afford one yet, so have settled for a nice, basic steel Monkey, then Unit. Reading Phil's comment on the ride vs his steel version of the same bike, certainly does not help my wanting of Ti since I prefer full rigid.
To Phil, as someone who has quite a bit of experience with 11spd Shimano (built and worked on quite a few bikes with it), I can tell you that you picked the absolute worst shifter you possibly could in the XT, somehow Shimano absolutely shit the bed with it, it's super stiff and hard to push, I'd highly recommend either going to an XTR or SLX. I only just moved my Unit to 11spd Shimano and didn't have XTR $$, but no way in hell was I going with an XT shifter, so went SLX even though I lost the double push feature, it's so much smoother and easier to shift with it, but not quite as precise.
I've still have my pre-production Banshee Prime from 2012 and there's absolutely nothing wrong with it, I mean it's definitely a tank, but other than the about 34.7lbs build weight, it's great. I've even managed to retrofit the newer proper production V1 rear tri and drop outs on it, so I can run 135/142,148 or 150 hubs.
The PP Primes all had 1.5" straight steerer tubes, so down the road if I wanted, I could easily stick in an angleset if I found the 67* HTA not slack enough. Has proper clearance for 29x2.8" tyres with the 650B drop outs (+10mm) and still plenty clearance for 2.5" with the regulardrop outs if I wanted a shorter rear end. So I can completely change how the bike rides and feels just by swapping from say my "XC" i29 wheelset with 2.3" tyres to the "Trail" i35s with 2.6" tyres and flipping the chips in the drop outs.
Overall reply about the grips - if I was going to spend that sort of cash on something to help the "feel" of my bike, it would be on some inserts like the Rimpacts to help with some dampening and rebound control on the rigid, other than that, with a bar with proper sweep, I think there's not much need for "gimics" - think people need to try bars with sweep greater than 9 degrees if they have hand issues. Other than that I'll stick to my nice, cushy OURY single clamp lock ons, thanks - great value at just over $30.
I got a pair of GA3s to try as I thought that the smaller wing would be more suited to proper, tech, hardcore MTBing compared to their other grips with wings, but boy was I wrong. The wings are so flexible and weak, they offer no help support and the grip itself is very thin/small, got rid of them as soon as I could.
FYI, I've riden Ergon grips since their introduction GP1, GP2, GS1, GE1, GE1 EVO, GA2, GA2 FAT & GA3. Of all those grips, the only ones I currently use are the GA2 on loaner bikes, GA2 FAT on my FS, and on my rigid I run the new Oury single clamp 33 grips - they have some movement in them because of how soft the "rubber" is and are super comfy.