I'm guessing that in less than 2 weeks, this won't even be a debate. We're going to be inside or facing a fine. Time to get your indoor trainer setup dialed.
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Great article again Andrew. Am not surprised you're getting a big response as I think it speaks to a lot of riders. This content sets nsmb apart. After owning a dozen+ bikes, I've learned you can't upgrade from the wrong geo in a lot of situations, but once you find your fit...the nuances are many for bike swap vs upgrade. Fist bump to the the guy who thought about getting carbon enve 26" rims in the early days of larger wheels, but never pulled the trigger. Can't say same goes for the guy who spent $600 on new shock for frame that won't clear a 2.4 + mud..
That said, I smile every time I see that rider on a 6 yr old frame. Bikes that stand the test of time and are worth upgrading are where my mind goes every time I read a product review. As our resale values tank (try selling a 3 yr old Sight, Pivot or Thunderbolt) and $6K for Eagle NX spec is the new norm, this article is more relevant that ever. Thanks again.
I'm just reluctant to use blue loc-tite on my thru axles, bb spindle, steerer tube, fork wipers, canti pivots, pedal threads, valve stems and seat post shaft.
Am surprised nobody has mentioned NFS chain lube - it seems to be the darling product for those caring about friction..but no word on how it deals with high-rain settings. Colour me curious.
For me, the Dumonde regular chain lube (green label) is working well (they sell it at Kissing Crows Cyclery on Main St). For DT hub star ratchet, I used their pink grease. For loose ball hubs I repack with the bright yellow/green stuff from Shimano - nice consistency imo. Triflow for inner cables. Shimano freehubs get the Dumonde freehub oil. I use similar trick to Vik and buy cheaper chains and replace often.
I'm on hunt for good all-purpose assembly lubricant for bits that don't need loctite - any suggestions Andrew?
The comparison I'm thinking of is this one vs one that has a ratchet. Yes, the ratchet is one more think to break but some say it is invaluable in this type of tool. Tell us why Ti is worth it over ratchet Pete.
The Surface I picked up a few years back did just the trick for this. The lumpy climbs were the bits I won't miss on the HT, but loved threading the HT down many Fromme trails.
That all makes sense if you drive a lot. If we're all out there driving a lot...how do the roads look?. NV traffic is a peach these days, but...hey, have at it.
My mistake - replace 'Guardian' with 'Revelation' and it makes more sense. As for Sugoi neoshell, they had a model called the RSX but it appears missing from their website. I wouldn't be surprised if some NOS was out there though.
I notice the Acre Meridian is also missing of late. Would be on my list if available. Guess I'll be babying my RSX in the months ahead.
Agree that NeoShell is top shelf hardshell fabric for breathing and waterproofness. I commute daily on one, and use it on the trails. Sugoi make one with an mtb cut as well as a roadie one. The mtb one is 1" short in the tail, but otherwise is a decent cut.
I remember all the mtb media gushing about the Guardian jacket, but never read anything as honest as this :"Gore Pro is more durable and will go longer without wetting out but it’s optimized for stop-and-go activity and doesn’t breath as well." So thanks for that. Also - thanks for the tip on Dumonde Tech chainlube - great stuff!
Am a GE1 fan after years of everything but Ergon. Haven't tried slims, but would be interested in the softer version announced recently. No issues with inner clamp-only for riding...and it is easier on the drywall. The 150 reviews are spot on Andrew and say you should keep it up.
AM - would you ride a 40mm stem irrespective of frame spec for reach dimension? My view is the last 10mm adjusted at the stem as frames will invariably have difference reach spec's so you'll never get the same cockpit length every time. I guess what I'm saying is, would you compromise fit for handling preference by holding firm on stem length? Sure you're still riding 40mm stem, but if you've shortened the cockpit 10mm from optimum, why is that better than the 50mm stem?
Holding firm on stem length preference severely limits the frame choices. If you've prioritized handling over fit, I'd acknowledge this concession. I know this isn't point of this article, but the trade-off's are often missed in these write-ups
Light spiderless cranks
Thanks for repies here Andrew. Do you think Race Face will sell me a 24mm spindle to upgrade my NextSL cranks?
So PF92 + 30mm spindle = no bueno for bearing size? Haven't read this before. Major's past article mentions the 'standards' have more or less settled out, and for PF bb's its largely BB92. So are the majority of today's mtb frame owners relegated to 24mm cranks? What does this say about the crank+frame mfgr's being at odds?
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