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Tjaardbreeuwer's comments

107 comments found

Dear Uncle Dave: What's with all this reach and stack nonsense? - May 28, 2019, 7:09 a.m.

The problem with down tube length is that it depends on fork-crown-height.

If you had two bikes, one with a small wheel and short travel fork, and long headtube, and one with a big wheel and fork and short headtube, they might have identical fit and angles, yet the downtube would be very different.

Dear Uncle Dave: What's with all this reach and stack nonsense? - May 28, 2019, 7:05 a.m.

Good point Vic!

There are many people remarking that they don’t understand how bikes fit differently than what they expected based on the geometry chart. I think there are two issues that cause this confusion:

  1. They don’t set up the bike to their own fit. In other words, they don’t set the saddle to the same height and set-back from the bottom bracket, and they don’t set the grips the same distance and drop from the saddle. (And they use different saddles and shaped/widht bars)
  2. They don’t understand the relationship between stack and reach.

With modern mtb’s, the head angle is so slack, that a lower stack makes for a significantly shorter effective reach.

Effective reach’ being the horizontal distance from bottom bracket to the center of the steerer tube at your handlebar height.

Imagine two nearly identical bikes, the only difference being that one has a tall head tube and the other one has a short head tube. let’s say you run no spacers on the tall head tube bike. If you owned the short head tube bike, you would add spacers to get the bar at the same height. These bikes would fit, feel and handle identical. Yet, the second one would have a longer reach, and shorter stack.

If you want to approximate this when looking at geometry charts, you can subtract 0.4 times the difference in stack from the reach of the lower bike.

Early Rider Belter 16 Trail - Reviewed - May 22, 2019, 7 a.m.

I have had issues with overly squirmy handling on my kids bike. On a ride to school on her 20” Islabike, she crashed on the road. Wide, straight paved road. On the downhill we hit almost 20mph, and something caused a bit of turn to the bar, she started to correct, over corrected and down she went.

So I would say, with these short wheelbase bikes, with small wheels(=low trail), a slacker head angle would definitely be better*.

Could you fit an angle adjust headset in there?

*For the record, I am not an “endurbro” who thinks every bike should be slacker and longer.

Wolf Tooth B-RAD Mini Roll Top Bag - May 17, 2019, 7:18 a.m.

I use a Revelate ‘gastank’ style toptube  bag for a similar function. Combined with a Specialized SWAT strap bolted to the saddle for a tube, and a pump and bottle on the frame, it lets me ride pack free unless I need a lot of water.

Personally, I’d rather have the weight on the bike than on my back, but if you want maximum ‘flickability’ I could see preferring it on your back.

My issue with the on bike storage is the weight of the storage system itself.

How much does the bag and mounting parts weigh?

If you are still using a pack, you probably end up with more total weight.

Even if you are replacing a backpack, it pays to check the weight of the entire system and compare it to a hydration pack and bladder, it might be that the pack is lighter.

Crankbrothers Stamp 1 Flat Pedal - May 17, 2019, 7:07 a.m.

Until now my daughter has actually been riding on the previous version of the CB Mallet E. They were a BAD pedal, the steel spring/cleat cage pulled out of the alloy body, making them non functional as clipless pedals.

I removed the springs and they are a nice concave body pedal, just the right size for kids feet,  with grippy but low pins.

They are a bit heavy though for such a small pedal, and they need a rebuild after a winter of riding salted roads, so I was looking for some decent plastic ones instead.

Crankbrothers Stamp 1 Flat Pedal - May 16, 2019, 5:21 a.m.

I was reading this and 2/3 of the way down I thought: great! I’ll get a pair for my 8 year old daughter, I bet they have an extra small size..

Wrapping your Ride for Posterity (and resale!) - May 9, 2019, 7:12 a.m.

Does the tape actually work for long term protection though? 

What I mean is, now instead of paint or anodizing getting scuffed, now you have tape, which I would imagine gets scuffed or scratched even easier, since it’s softer. Do you remove it after a few year, either for resale or to reapply a new layer if you keep the bike?

Second, what about the weight? How much does a kit weigh? I know that paint can run around 150g more than anodizing on a big frame. Yeti charges a pretty penny for a Turq frame, and saves you a few hundred grams, now you are adding how much back again.

In Defense Of HammerSchmidt - May 7, 2019, 7:54 a.m.

It also doesn't offer the interstates chainguide that hammerschmidt did, nor the shifting without moving.

In Defense Of HammerSchmidt - May 7, 2019, 7:52 a.m.

Exactly, I would say it’s a benefit as long your full suspension bike doesn’t have to high of anti-squat to begin with.

Let’s say that most bikes these days are designed around a 32t chainring. The 24t granny would substantially increase anti-squat. So, if you’r bike was on the low end of anti-squat in stock design form, this would parable be fine for most people.

Conversely, in the big ring you would reduce anti-squat, not a big deal since you would be on level or descending ground, and the reduced pedal kickback would be a benefit.

In Defense Of HammerSchmidt - May 7, 2019, 7:44 a.m.

Haha, Same here with the Gravity Dropper, I also got one around the time that the Joplins came out. Very glad I went with GD.  I just bought 2 more a few years ago to put on our fatbikes, so I wouldn’t have to worry about airsprings and hydraulics not working in frigid temps.

In Defense Of HammerSchmidt - May 7, 2019, 7:39 a.m.

Indeed, let’s not confuse two things: construction category and performance. All, different users have different requirements. Brake power wet and dry, durability when wet, heat resistance, everyone has different priorities.  Organic pads cover an enormous range of materials, no reason to reject that type. In many cases, organic pads can offer the highest performance.

In Defense Of HammerSchmidt - May 7, 2019, 7:32 a.m.

Thanks for putting out great articles like this! INstead of jsut rehashing the latest and greatest, or nodding along with all the cool kids, NSMB consistently put up great, well thought out articles, looking at the actual pro’s and con’s.

This is just one more example, I have always thought Hammerschmidt seemed like a great idea, certainly with downsides, but so does every other option.

WTB Vigilante & Trail Boss Tire Review - April 28, 2019, 6:47 p.m.

Blistergear reported the same problem removing them on different rims

The Surprising Bontrager SE2 29x2.6" Team Issue TLR Tire - April 18, 2019, 2:43 p.m.

Bontrager has released a new XR 3, basics a RockRazor, Slaughter etc concept: side knobs from Xr4, center from XR 2. Right know only in XR casing and 29x2.4 and 27.5x2.8, but with such disparate sizes and their commitment to the 29+ sizes, I bet more sizes will follow. Hopefully also a SE casing. I really want a 29x2.6 for my bike.

For now, the XR3 27.5x2.8 will be great option for local XC rides on my wife’s 27.5 plus bike: fast, Light and plenty grippy.

E*Thirteen Goes Massive With New Cassettes - April 18, 2019, 10:05 a.m.


They DO make cassettes with smaller range. Just hadn’t heard of them before, and didn’t see them on the website, because the are called a different model than the wide range ones.

They make 9-34, 9-39 and 9-42 in 11 speed, Xd freewheel., called the XCX plus cassettes.

Anyone running a Park/DH wheel or bike, this can be a very interesting option: light weight(less unsprung mass is great) and 10% smaller COGGS means you can run 10% smaller chainring for more ground clearance. Especially if you are running a 27.5 wheel, with its lower gear inches, your chainring can start to get awful close to the rocks on the modern low BB bikes.

It’s especially  nice if, like me you swap a different  wheel and tire into your trail/enduro bike for the park. In one quick and easy wheel swap you get a taller gearing with a grippier, tougher, tire for the park, and back to a lighter faster rolling tire and lower/wider gearing for the trail rides.

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