I bought a cheap Shimano BB the other day. Took me a while to figure out what the plastic thing was. Why is it plastic? Why isn’t the bottom bracket the same size as the others?
The first video I found online about cutting down your seat tube was a carbon frame. I think it was some online bike shop owner or such, can8t remember exactly.
How did you find the size vs the sizing chart? I have really poor experiences with sizing pads (especially for kids).
In other words, this size seems to fit you well. If you measure according to their chart, is this the size you end up at?
I suspect that a big part of knee pads comes down to fit. Tight enough to stay in place, but not binding anywhere.
I have been using the Dainese trail skins for my trail riding. Like the Leat, they have the lattice pad for venting and some side protection as well.
I like that they have a velcro strap top and bottom. So many lightweight pads don't. Even if the pad fits well when new, over time the sleeve will stretch a bit, so I like to be able to adjust that.
What I don't like about my (older) Trailskins, is that the fabric between the top of the pad, and the top of the sleeve is a bit loose and stretchy. Great for pedaling, but I do worry if they might slide down a bit if I crashed. This might be fit dependant.
The benefit of hex might be the ability to use ball head tools?
For example, waterbottle bolts and brake lever reach adjust screws seem to never allow a normal tool acces.
For everything else though, it would seem to me that Torx is a better ‘bite’?
And one huge, non bike related benefit of Torx:
there is only one F##@#&in’ size system! No trying to guess if that tiny six sided hole is metric or imperial, or whether your wrench or the bolt are worn a bit.
Reply to the PS:
for pivot hardwear, I use a torque wench. A set of Torx bits is a lot smaller and more usefull(for non bike use on drills and ratchets), than a full size run of handled Torx.
I find that if I need a ball head, I much prefer a screwdriver handle:
- If you need a ball head, space is often at a premium, so the much smaller handle works in way more places
- Since you should not be applying much torque anyway with a ball head at an angle, the reduced leverage is no problem
- Screwdriver handle is much easier to spin for many revolutions.
In short, at home I much prefer a set of T-handle regular hex, and screw driver style ballhead hexes.
The only benefit to the mixed T style is can see is for travel, if you want to bring fewer tools along.
(BTW, I have the Pedros version of the mixed type, with the offset T handle, but bought the regular, centered T hexes and screwdriver ball heads, several years ago, and much prefer them).
My other complaint about this set:
All of them are green! My biggest issue is grabbing the right size tool, so I want each size to be a different color.
Printed sizes wear of quickly. In this case, they have an anodized sleeve, why not make each sleeve a different color?
On my first generation TRS post the barrel adjuster died. It was a different system than most shifter barrel adjusters I have. The hollow bolt had to flattened side and the sleeve you turn had an oval opening to fit over that. Because that sleeve is soft plastic, it widened up, and now the barrel adjuster doesn’t work. Combined with the difficulty of setting decent cable tension in the lever, it is a very poor system.
I still love that type of tire, but I am not in your part of the world. On our north shore (Lake Superior) our trails close when wet, so I ride hardpack, rubble and dry rock. No mud, rarely wet rock. No need for large braking/climbing knobs in the rear. Just want some cornering bite for loose surfaces or the occasional remnant of amud puddles. No steeps either, except for rock rolls.
And I have different tires on a separate wheelset for the bikepark.
There are a few new options, Bontrager released the new XR 3 as one of these designs, wish they made it as SE3 as well. Terra Vail has the Eh-Line. I have it in 29x2.5, but it is not much bigger than my Rock Razor in 2.35.(60mm casin on i28mm rim at 22 psi). It does come in both light and tough casing.
And Specialized did upgrade the Slaughter, to the new Grid Trail casing, and grippier compound.
But indeed, Schwalbe should really come out with some more sizes and casing options for the Rock Razor.
You can look at it a few ways. One is: why not buy a bike that comes with a longer travel fork to begin with? Say instead of over-forking a Tallboy, get a Hightower?
On the other hand, I have done it plenty in the past, when bikes with a bit more travel up front and slack head angles were hard to find.
As a taller rider, the problem for me with over-forking is that is worsens many geo issues that are already bad for us:
- Shortens reach even more
- Slackens the seat tube angle even more
- Lengthens front center leading to even more rear biased weight distribution
For short riders the latter is possibly a benefit, but other issues are problematic:
- Raises Bottom bracket
- Raises stack
Of course, all of these changes depend on the starting geometry. If you have a bike with low BB, steep HA and SA and long chainstays, it seems like a no brainer.
My thought is that geometry is king. A bit shorter or longer travel is less important than having the right geometry for you. So use what ever combination of wheel size, fork travel, head angle and eccentric shock bushings works to get the geometry where you want it, and don’t sweat about a bit longer or shorter travel.
This view might be biased by being 6’5”, where it is hard to find good geo bikes. The same I am sure holds true for super short riders. People in the middle of the bell curve are more used to being able to choose a perfectly fitting and handling bike, so they probably assign more importance to the amount of travel.
I should ask, what temperature is ‘HOT’? In a washing machine labeling sense, that is something like 60C/140F
The problem with this is that most technical gear, like pads, are made with neoprene and impact hardening foam. Neither of which can be washed hot.
If the pad itself is removable, your options increase, you can then wash the ‘sleeve’ frequently (at a temperature low enough not to damage it), so it doesn’t build up the deep skin/oil/ bacterial/mold/yeast culture
And then you can wash the pad it self with some (dish)soap, and dry it.
Maybe Crushcore will come out with a ‘take along’ version of this lever? They could easily whittle some material away to reduce bulk, and still have all of the function, it just would not be as comfy to use.
So this one seems the way to go for home use.
Pedros are not that large. Slightly wider than the wimpy Park Tool ones, but not longer or thicker. For minimalist kit I bring one Pedro and one Park lever on my rides, also makes a good way to use up the Park Tool ones I have sitting around, since I don’t use them at home anymore.