DanL profile

My lighting system is feeling strictly legacy right now. Battery tech is coming on leaps and bounds and I always get the heebie-jeebies charging black packs of 18650s unless I'm actively watching them.

Self contained lights are getting better every year, I'm so tired of the weird cable routing I have to do for my head mounted gemini and bars too, I'm looking forwards to ditching them soon.

And to see someone with $300+ worth of front lights and no $15 back light blows my mind. Those small back spots are just for getting to/from trails either, we found them great just for finding each other on trails when front lights were off to save batteies and they also work well as a backup tool light.

But where do you source your ano bolts/washers from?

First three articles on the NSMB header are now - Yeti, Lusting for Luxury bike parts and a Porsche drive test - this place has changed in the last month.....

I kid, I kid

Excellent writing with, would you guess, excellent discourse.

Did you have to fill out waivers in-person or can they be done online with ticket purchases?

It’s also of note to see how much just the frame kit is compared to a full, good build that one can ride straight out with warranties fluttering in the wind

I completely agree. It's a battle to find a new bike that I wouldn't want to strip things off and swap out instead of pay and ride.

My pads, helmet with liners, gloves if they get really bad after washing - get sprayed with water+white vinegar+ teatree oil then with luck, laid out for the UV rays from the sun to kill the remaining colony.

When it's carpet bombing time, put 'em all in a ziplock bag and fill with Isopropyl Alcohol. And then in the freezer. The colour of the IPA afterwards from my gloves was revolting

I always thought packing a Co2 canister would be to reseat a bead if it burped off- is this pointless ? Or are there better/less wasteful ways to do this like pop in a tube and reseat when you get home

I combined the wheel MFG press with a custom set or presses and pullers from Bearing Pro Tools. Bearing Pro use a standard threaded rod for their press, but after some unfortunate mechanical hamfistery, I found that the the larger thread pitch on the MFG press is a much smoother, more foolproof method.

Excellent, between those and the disturbing Bead Dropper I'll be ready!

Did you ride up on the Alice Lake Access road to get into the area?

Dollar for dollar for sure - no way I'd be getting anything other than a new Process frame/shock.

Ouch - go to wheelthing.

Jeff can turn it around in no time at all - he did my pike in 48hrs from drop off. Plus their booking system is online and plainly excellent.

http://www.wheelthing.ca/

Process looking great. Such an undervalued bike sometimes.

I'm not expecting too much grief when I get round to it. There look to be a few extra steps to get right after years of Shimano/SRAM bleeding - the codes have to be the easiest things I've ever had to deal with and once I get a new bleed kit in from the UK I'll drill the hole and get stuck in.

Weirdly, I hate slippy, slippy mineral oil and prefer DOT for clean up. But that's me.

Posted by: JBV

when the part is falling and you notice it falling, isn't it funny that you already know the direction of the bounce? you know for certain that it's going to bounce quickly, erratically, if totally predictably underneath the workbench and the random stuff you have under there. it's not going to bounce towards your feet or into the open where you're standing. it's an amazing and little studied law of physics that should have some research dollars thrown at it. seems like Murphy knew something about this.

Haha, and Dr Ian Malcolm

I went all in on MT7s front and rear with a 200 and 180 at the rear. I used to run 200 in the back but I always seemed to be bending the rear rotor sometimes. I figured that the larger rotor combined with klutziness was knocking it. So far so good. The pads are 'race' compound and they bed in well but I know that they aren't going to last as long as other pads but I'm happy with the stronger braking force.

Shimano icetech rotor up front and centerline at the rear in the name of comparisons.

Beforehand I had Code RSCs and they are really great brakes : lively, smooth and good ramp up on modulation but I always preferred the levers that Shimano have and the slightly lighter feel of their systems. I just didn't gel with the manner that they did the stopping with. But that's all personal preference.

Jeff Bryson installed the front brake as the hose was too short and I have no first hand experience of bleeding Magura systems, yet. The rear needed a trim and was very easy to re-install - I will definitely miss the bleeding edge port on the Codes when it comes time to bleed though.

They have lived up to expectations and price. I like the lever feel and the modulation is smooth, consistent and ramps up well for me. The first test outing was hooning around on the Braemar side of Fromme using Lower Expresso, Pennzoil, lower Digger as baselines and then finally dropping into lower Boundary to see how well it could they could keep a consistent slow speed when crawling down steep wooden features on a rainy day.

My crappy finger joints are a lot more pleased with the hook on the lever and when my index joints get too aggravated it's nice to know I can two finger brake if needed.

It does take a little while to get used to the upper end of the braking modulation but that would be the same kind of learning curve I'd expect from any new brake system.

Posted by: heathen

https://www.transitionbikes.com/Bikes_Spur.cfm

cat. pigeons.

It looks like CGP are coming back for Summer - has anyone had any luck getting a day pass? I keep getting directed to season passes currently

Posted by: Endur-Bro

My bikes weight is its weight. I can do one of two things: ride it as is and become fitter and stronger. Or work more to afford lighter parts which results in less riding ¯_(ツ)_/¯

This