T-mack profile

I use the Maxima SC1, I buy it from Holeshot Motorsports in Langley but I'm sure any moto shop has it. I cover my calipers and rotors in a plastic bag when I spray it on because it will wreck your brakes. The finished product is amazing though and mud falls off the bike. When you spray with water it beads off like rainex on a windshield. It also smells like bubblegum :)

No out of my truck. I had it in my bike bag after a ride and left the bag in my truck. Made off with my helmet, Garmin, glasses etc

I loved mine until it was stolen :(. Simple display, compact and had great battery life. I have a 530 plus now and although the features and screen are technically better, I still miss the 130.

I ate it so bad on Burke mtn a few months back. Tore quad muscle from smashing into rocks, hematoma in my leg that wouldn't go away etc. I was wearing NF shorts and you can't see a single scuff mark or anything where the impact happened, absolutely mind blowing.

I've been using a chain/Ulock combo that I picked up at the Giant factory sale a couple years ago. I then replaced the pinner aluminum tie down hooks Toyota uses in the bed of their Trucks with a CNC'd piece of hardened steel. So really theres thick steel down the whole line of defence. If a thief manages to get through all of that then he can have my bike.

I always cut a slit in whatever headset I get for this exact reason. I've even done it to a King one lol

Yeah but you'll have a a bunch of shitty headsets for the same price as a CK. As I get older I'm finding I like to pay the premium up front and not worry about it anymore.

If theres clearance at bottom out you could probably re-space the shock and gain more travel while maintaining eye to eye. Im eager to see one in the flesh to see if its possible.

I'm 6'4" and on an S5 Enduro, coming off of a L Pole Evolink. At your height I would say XL in the Sent BUT that STA is slacker than the S5 and Evolink. Maybe seat position could be adjusted for you, point being I would sit on one but I would put money on XL. Cheers.

My man! I bet his wife is a fox too.

I just rebuilt my EDC Pump last month after 3 years and it was mint inside. Now I would say its mint+

Posted by: Brocklanders

Posted by: chupacabra

but there is always a chance they will pull a quadriga. 

I was kicking myself for not investing a few years ago. I was talking to a coworker and he told me how to buy it etc. I set up an account at Qaudriga but when they wanted my SIN # and stuff I chickened out, a year later buddy 'died'. So I mean even though Bit is worth so much right now, I was never not going to invest through Q because that was the only avenue I was aware of and would have lost it all anyway.

Posted by: Hepcat

I'm done with the Magura plastic levers, going to go for Shiguras with some old XTR servo-wave levers. I was told non-servo is ideal? Can't seem to find any though.

So, Shimano olive on Magura hose with Magura barb I take it...

Im running all shimano hardware on the magura hose. The size is basically the same.

ROUGHLY half seem to be red and halk seem to be blue....weird

Posted by: velocipedestrian

Posted by: T-mack

Posted by: heathen

Posted by: RAHrider

Posted by: Vikb

Posted by: heathen

What are these mystical creatures?

Does anyone know if the shimano wandering bite point is solved by replacing the caliper with a magura?

That was my exact thought when I saw it.

All a caliper is mechanically is a piston that slides inside a square profile O-ring. The retraction is just the O-ring going from a Parellolgram back to square which pulls the pistons back inside the caliper. The wandering bite point couldn't really be anything to do with the caliper. My theory is that when you bleed a shimano system, you push fluid up the system into the cup on the master, well you're essentially taking all of that grime from the caliper and pushing it back through the system which gums up the seals in the lever body. I bet the spring is trying to push the plunger back when you release the lever but the seals are slow to move so when you go pull again, the pads are still closer to the rotor than they should be causing inconsistent feel.

The 'official' shimano bleed is top down, so the gunge is more likely to collect in the caliper. 

I've heard the theory that the servo-wave amplifies any bubble issues, as the lever has to move further. But the m9000 race lever mentioned doesn't have it, so no more clever thoughts.

On my Shigura setup, I have the wander in the rear but my front feels mint still. I frequently have to replace the pads in the rear which requires pushing the pistons back in which is more than likely contaminating the fluid. if I pull the lever and watch the brakes retract, they move slow which tells me the piston in the master isn't retracting quickly.

Posted by: heathen

Posted by: RAHrider

Posted by: Vikb

Posted by: heathen

What are these mystical creatures?

Does anyone know if the shimano wandering bite point is solved by replacing the caliper with a magura?

That was my exact thought when I saw it.

All a caliper is mechanically is a piston that slides inside a square profile O-ring. The retraction is just the O-ring going from a Parellolgram back to square which pulls the pistons back inside the caliper. The wandering bite point couldn't really be anything to do with the caliper. My theory is that when you bleed a shimano system, you push fluid up the system into the cup on the master, well you're essentially taking all of that grime from the caliper and pushing it back through the system which gums up the seals in the lever body. I bet the spring is trying to push the plunger back when you release the lever but the seals are slow to move so when you go pull again, the pads are still closer to the rotor than they should be causing inconsistent feel.

Posted by: DanL

Well I got an email saying they had more in stock, discussed all things budget with my other half and then they were out of stock so I'll just wear shorts.

What did you learn?

Posted by: D_C_

Posted by: T-mack

Posted by: Bushpilot

If you get the Oneup pump with the EDC you can mount it on your frame and don't have to worry about threading your steerer...and you'll have a pump. You can fit tire plugs in there too if you forego storing the C02 in the pump.

Thats what I did. I don't really understand why one would only run the steertube edc and no pump/plugs.

I run the EDC tool with plug kit in my steerer and carry C02 with a small Specialized inflator strapped with my tube to my top tube. I flat pretty infrequently so carrying C02 is fine for me. The steerer tube storage is pretty slick.

(Now watch me flat next ride)

The problem with CO2 is that if you leak a little while trying to inflate or anything you can't add anymore air unless you have another cartridge or a pump which negates the CO2.

Posted by: Bushpilot

If you get the Oneup pump with the EDC you can mount it on your frame and don't have to worry about threading your steerer...and you'll have a pump.  You can fit tire plugs in there too if you forego storing the C02 in the pump.

Thats what I did. I don't really understand why one would only run the steertube edc and no pump/plugs.

Posted by: RAHrider

With regards to battery, I can't speak to the 800 series Garmin but my 530 can outlast me any day of the week. I usually charge mine every week or so. If you are navigating it uses more battery but I've never had it die on a ride. If you were doing 8 hours or something like that, I'm not sure... Definitely enough for mortals.

As for reliability, I went with the 530 cause I think a touch screen is unnecessary on a bike computer. Give me an old fashioned button. The 530 has been excellent for me. No issues

Same here. 530 has been amazing