AndrewMajor profile

Hi Greg, that’s buried in there. There are three platform sizes and medium was tested. Large and Small are just available in black. 

They all use the same bodies and just the cage size changes.

I could see small parts pricing going up especially if they add colours and sizes. I could also see them going to a Chris King model where there are a few always colours and then limited runs - assuming the pedals catch on.

I could also see different shapes of cages - like truly concave and convex cages - which could add cost. But I’d doubt we’ll see a full redesign because the basic system is solid.

The removable cages are an added level of complexity but the pin system is actually really simple and I don’t foresee it developing slop if everything’s kept tight. I can see people braking cages with direct hits - I see if with composite and aluminum pedals from time to time - but… $5 replacements.

The only real write-off mode I considered was if the pins were loose and the rider managed to leverage the main pedal body open. But even then it could probably to forced back to shape with a vice or replacing one body isn’t a huge cost either - at least for now. 

Let’s check back in 2031 :-)

Hahahaha. 

Cheers!

No, they’re very slightly different sizes. I took an overlapping photo for this piece but it didn’t turn out.

HAHAHAHA, and I sell myself as being cynical as f***!

I disagree though. I look at these pedals, and the investment that went into making them (money, energy, and self) and I see ###### Bikes as being a prominent example of a similar situation. There is obviously adequate access to capital and there is simply too much energy invested in the product for it to fail. Also, and in my opinion, a differentiator, the pedals are actually pretty damn good and offer unique selling features.

Generally, I agree with you 99%, but I'll put an Elizabeth down that the company (under Squidworx or another, better, brand name) is supporting these pedals a decade from now.

HAHAHAHA. Thank you!

But, in terms of the XTR pedals, you need to try harder. I've been assaulted twice by fully-failed XTR pedals and have seen lots of blown-sloppy examples aside from my own. Or, potentially, you have a pair of f***ing unicorns in which case I'd buy a set of extra axle/bearing assemblies just to be sure you never have to use them.

They have a lot of potential in terms of delivering value. I'm in the same boat with the composite OneUps. The last time I wore them out I bought another pair. Mine seem to last about a year and it's the same for the WahWah2.

That’s interesting, it must be something they added recently? I see Black bodies are the only option currently but certainly that’s something to keep an eye on as/when inventory returns to normal. 

I do wonder how many folks would take advantage as there’s more involved with swapping bearings with the Chromag but that’s still cool to see them offering it. 

Generally my axles are still good when my composite pedals die but rarely pins or bearings so I don’t know if it would present the same value to me as the Squidworx.

Had to Google that one. Now wondering what percentage of NSMB.com readers are also Spongebob devotees?!

Cheers; thank you for engaging! 

I don't have an issue with the 5.5mm length pins, or my mix of pins, I'd just like them to be sharper like the OneUps. I didn't come across anything, in an albeit quick search, that would be a 'sharper' replacement for the stock Squidworx pin system. 

I agree I'd rather have my pins snap and leave the pedal intact than bend and crack/flake (depending on material). 

An addendum to my comment above in reply Shoreboy, the sort of person that buys a full suspension bike, like a Murmur, with the intention to service it and evolve it over years rather than replace it before it's due for its first suspension service is absolutely the market for these pedals.

Posted by: RAHrider

I can't even imagine not being able to ride because my chain is worn out and I can't get another.

KMC single speed chains are still readily available in like 34 different colours, there is no shortage of metric bolts, and single speed cogs and spacer kits are readily available.

Just space your derailleur cage wider for the wider chain, set those limits (may need longer high and low limit screws), and install a cog.

Back riding under $100 with a budget cog.

Posted by: velocipedestrian

Isn't this Honzo one that's been featured around these parts before?

From a Pinkbike article on bike theft.

Frame was recovered after my friend JL chased it down across Vancouver (on foot). JL is a f***ing legend for recovering stolen bikes.

It lives with my buddy “Bone Spurs” Brent now. If you ever see it out on the trails be sure to say “Hi Bone Spurs!”

Many other special parts never made it home... like my limited production grey North Shore Billet bash ring.

Most importantly, I never recovered my king wheels. An old set of Pewter King hubs laced to raw Velocity Blunt rims. Monetary and sentimental value in a rare if not one if a kind wheel set. I’ll recognize those wheels anywhere thanks to some custom details so if you ever see them on a car or on the trail I’d appreciate a heads up.

Posted by: Poz

Posted by: taprider

you guys are making 2x and 3x sound better and better ;-)

Nah, then we would be debating the finer points of chainring ramp, how to fit multiple rings in a boost frame, and how to fit a front shifter and dropper remote on a single matchmaker to a brake lever!

Manual shift with dual N/W rings. Only need the Grannie for the brutal climbs and taking a few seconds at the top to breathe/shift is no big deal.

Bonus points for getting back to running a super short cage and lower unsprung weight.

Two things I’ve been reminding my friends & frenemies:

A friction shifter will allow you to combine almost any derailleur / cassette with the right chain and even some of the time with the almost-right chain. Having one around isn’t just a replacement for any shifter in your fleet it’s also the skeleton key of intercompatibility! Now you can run Eagle with that old 9-speed cassette in your bin.

You’re less than a dollar away - in the form of two bolts - from turning any derailleur into a tensioner and, by extension, any bike into a single speed. Replace those limit screws and answer the universe’s call for you to be in the wrong gear all the time! Any chain will do, it’s still easy to get an SS cog if you don’t want to just leave your cassette on, and away you go. Beautiful.

Posted by: Vikb

Posted by: thaaad

We do have the space for it and I do really love it. 

I'd keep it for this winter. Re-evaluate in the Spring. As long as the above is true and you ride it then keeping it makes sense. If you find you are not riding it sell it come Spring when bike fever is peaking.

Strongly disagree. If you have a Chromag (or any hardtail) with fixed dropouts flip it ASAP! Pretty strong rumour going around that Chromag is finally adding sliders to some of their frames!!! 

Now all you slow-to-conform single speeders will have the ‘option’ to ride bikes a better way!

Covid wants you to single speed! Why else would there be no Eagle chains until July!?!?!?!??!?!?!???

I think the big advantage of CC over other systems remains the run-flat ability.

It’s not that combinations of different tires/inserts can’t create a similar ride but rather the fact that you do in a tire and you’re still walking out or putting in a tube.

How much value that has (versus cost, weight, install) will depend on the tire but it’s really strange to me (not intended as a comment directly to you Ryan, but as a general observation) that the majority of “it’s like CushCore but... insert price, weight, install” comments don’t mention this fact.

Also, short of some awful experiences with true-2-ply “DH” tires, CC really isn’t that hard to install.

I stopped carrying a tube and honestly - as much of a ‘scout as I am - I only carry a pump/plugs because NSMB wheel testing policy is no inserts during test period.

Any other insert I’ve played with I’m back to carrying a tube/plugs/pump all the time.

I’m a well documented fan of Wolf Tooth’s CAMO system. The stainless N/W rings more than pay for themselves in terms of longevity and I’ve run the same rings on e13, RaceFace, SRAM, and FSA (Cannondale) cranks thanks to the swappable spiders.

Not cheap but very nicely made, high quality, and small batch USA manufacturing. And actually, compared to the price of SRAM Eagle rings even the initial purchase price doesn’t seem that crazy.

Anyways, early days but I’ve been liking their new bashguard version. It does look better with my 32t oval ring compared to this 30t. But it spreads the load out when I thump it with either size installed.

How about a 10mm long Mondraker DM stem from On/Off:

https://www.onoffcomponents.com/en/krypton-dh-cnc-integrated-10mm

Posted by: Kenny

After noticing a major difference in arm pump between my FS and HT and not having much luck improving it via setup related changes, I've ordered some revgrips to try. Bit of an expensive experiment, but conceptually I can really see how they'd help in a hardtail especially. 

Shipping from US to Canada is a disaster these days, I guess they all have covid? So who knows when they'll actually turn up, but I'll follow up after some testing.

Any local shop can bring them in. ALBA in Whistler is the distributor. I’ve been riding a pair for a few weeks.

Posted by: RAHrider

I've put in almost 400km on it and I like it 90% of the time but every time I take it on steep tech I wish I wasn't riding it.

Just out of curiosity, have you tried raising the bar 20mm (bar or headset spacers) for the steep tech? 

Or otherwise changing the weight balance - narrower bar, running the shock softer, or fork firmer, or dropping the seat more (mechanically after your dropper is bottomed)?

It just reads like you’re fighting your bike but there’s nothing in your build that stands out as an Achilles’ heel.