Dean-W profile

I've been on a Manitou fork or shock consistently for the past 11 years.  Swinger 6, ISX 6, Minute Pro, Mattoc Pro

I've been thoroughly impressed and the addition of a burlier fork than the Mattoc is nice to see.  I am glad they are stepping up to the plate as another BIG player and not staying in the fringes anymore.  

One key to their success will be service (manuals for customers/shops), support and warranty.  If they get this right then people will be more comfortable with their purchases and not left in a panic when they need after purchase service.

Vee Tire is Maxxis

Just like Toyota is Lexus,  Nissan is Infinity, Ford is Lincoln.......

It would survive a pedal up to 7th, but it certainly wouldn't survive the ride down.

I made a short video.  I used a wrap or two of hockey tape on the back of the arch in the center to hold the hose solidly in place.

https://www.pinkbike.com/video/473933/

I know it might seem like a pain, but install a longer front brake line and you won't need to use the zap straps.  The reverse arch brake line routing is soooooooo much better than conventional forks......the only issue is that you do need a longer brake line.  Trust me on this; you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Every person that builds trails does it for different reasons.  The original article is a good read and accurately reflects my reality in many ways. 

I started building in 2003.  I had a rough introduction to what was at the time basically a "Secret society of builders", but I stuck with it and over time I've picking up an enormous amount of valuable knowledge.

Personally I think the best thing any builder can do is to patiently teach the craft to others.  Share their skills with someone else that wants to absorb the knowledge of how to build great trails.

Show everyone you see on the trail what a drain is and how to clear them.  Tell people to scour for rocks and pile them beside puddles.  Show people the difference between organic dirt (punk) and sweet golden loam.  Cedar vs anything else. Etc.....

My thoughts are that builders should share the craft with anyone that wants to learn.

This was a nice simplified breakdown of a few suspension principals.  I especially liked the comparison tables.  It made me realize why a two of my bikes behave so differently......time to tweak the shock pressures.

I can personally attest to the quality and craftsmanship of the WolfTooth remote which it top shelf.  This remote for 9point8 should work really well.

I am curious about the differences in the "Lever geometry and leverage ratios".  Does the 9point8 lever have more or less cable pull with the push of the lever compared to a standard WolfTooth lever?

That was a good laugh.

Ouch

Hand injuries SUCK!!!

Heal up

Posted by: Brocklanders

Posted by: Ouch

Those that use riding glasses, any issue with fogging?

This thread is good timing. Did a night ride last night and had to fish a tiny fragment of glass out of my eyelid this morning. Needless to say my eye is a bloodshot mess, but clearing up. I want to wear riding glasses but haven't found a pair that don't fog up. I'm 190 pounds so when in full cardio mode needless to say I'm steaming.

RYDERS antiFOG

https://www.ryderseyewear.com/ca-en/men/lens-tech/antifog

They work really well to prevent fogging.

A photo of my rack showing the protective tape and a bottle opener attached to the tie rope for  apre ride beers.

Here is my recommendation as an NSR2 and NSR4 owner.  Wrap the lower lower section of the rack where the tire contacts the rack in HOCKEY TAPE.  It prevents scratches and wears really well.  I wrap mine once a year to keep it looking fresh.

Posted by: Taz123

Great comments everyone - I ended up ordering a NS Billet boost ring, but will change my BB spacing more inward. Should arrive today, so I hope to get some riding in in the coming days to see how it all feels.

I chose to go with a non-boost ring because you can space out with the BB.  If you start with a boost ring, you may not be able to get the ring far enough inboard to get an ideal chainline for the big cogs on the cassette.  From experience I have found you have more spacing flexibility adjusting the chainline with the BB than anywhere else in the drivetrain.

I hope you have good luck getting things aligned to where you need them.

Posted by: heathen

Anyone running non boost rings on a boost bike having problems with their chain guide? My chain guide would need to be filed to fit. As it is currently set up perfectly and has no shims.

I had to do a tiny bit of filing on the plastic of my guide to stop some rubbing. Then I just rode the bike. After a few rides, the rubbing was non existent.  Start with shims and spacers, then finish with a bit of filing.

Seeing as I started these epic threads back in 2009, I figure I should throw my current ride into the tread.

The bike shown below a a big departure from any of my previous rides. Years ago I swore I never ride a 29er or a carbon framed bike. This summer I had to rescind both of those statements.

My new ride is a 2019 Specialized Enduro Carbon 29er - Small

I bought this bike brand new in 2020 because it was the only 29er I was able to find that fit me. I am short and finding a 29er that didn't feel like a boat had proven to be rather difficult. This bike however fits me spot on for stand over, reach and a low front end (it has a tiny head tube). I am 5'5" with a 29"ish inseam. The proportions are near spot on with this design and only on the steepest of steep sections does my butt get buzzed by the rear tire. Tire buzzing and standover are two of the biggest factors that make finding a 29er difficult for short statured people like me.

Since purchasing this bike this summer, I have changed almost every part on this bike. Having typed this list, I once again have realized I should just buy frames and build up my own custom bike. The only parts I have not changed are: stem, saddle, fork and wheels (though I am in the works of acquiring parts for custom wheels)

These are the changes I've made since buying the bike brand new in August 2020

• DHF / DHRII tires tubeless with 2 scoops of sealant
• Ohlins rear shock
• Code brakes
• Nuke Proof carbon bar
• LEV 5" dropper
• WolfTooth dropper lever
• Race Face BB
• SixC carbon cranks
• 28T Wolftooth ring
• Blackspire Trail X chain guide
• XX1 shifter
• XX1 derailleur
• X01 10-52 Cassette
• KMC chain
• One-Up aluminum pedals
• 30.5lbs

I am not running the CAMO.  It is just the round, aluminum, SRAM (Drop-Stop A), CINCH ring.

KMC chain, XO1 52T cassette, XX1 mech.  This is a silent, zero rubbing setup on this bike.  I get about a year out of a chainring riding 2-times a week every week.

I am another one running a Wolftooth Non-Boost on a Boost rear end to get a better chainline in the low gears.  Smooth silent climbing is what it is all about.  

No tire rubbing, no dropped chains when back pedaling and dead straight chainline in the middle cogs.  Yes there is wear on the outside of the cog but much less than running a Boost ring that optimizes the harder gears.  

I tinkered enough to get a chainguide to work with zero rubbing as well.

I figured since I started these threads I'd throw my bikes in the mix again.

My Kona Explosif.

Reserved for my bike.