martin profile

Wow! Awesome project and results! As an as-much-as-I-can DIYer, that would be a dream project, but I clearly don't have the knowledge and ressources to do so. It's really interesting and inspiring to see other people's creations though.

Please let us know when the 170mm frameset will be for sale, it ticks all my boxes 😁 Great work, keep it up!

For a small torque wrench/screwdriver, I've found the CDI TorqControl  (TLA28NM) to be almost perfect. Adjustable anywhere from 2-8Nm, comes with a calibration report and date, and it can be used with regular hex bits from any tool. I even use a hex-to-1/4 adapter for a few small socket bits. I think I paid it like 60$ cdn from MEC a few years ago.

The Shimano/PRO is smaller though and could be useful for tighter places, or even bringing on the first new-bike-setup rides.

Thanks! : )

Rabbit hole you say! I went from riding alone in the Yukon without bear spray or a cell phone to carrying a satellite communicator on my rides. But this decision arose from two things : having a kid coming in early August and a few crashes over the years in the "problematic" zone where my favorite trails are.

In late October two years ago, when riding the far away trails with no cell coverage, I stopped and put my feet on a stump so I wouldn't have to lower my seat (stupid I know haha) to take a small break. My foot just landed besides the small stump and I fell down in the river, back first onto a big rock with my bike falling over me. Completely drenched in cold water, I was holding my bike waist-deep in the current trying to get some purchase to find a way back to the trail. When I got out of the water, it was maybe 8C and I had a numbness feeling starting from my lower back, 15km away from my car with no cell phone reception even at the parking. 

Maybe I wouldn't have used the satellite communicator even if I had it, but if something ended up complicating I would have. I broke a rib two years prior to this riding at 3kph on the same trail but I was with a friend and was able to ride out relatively well. That's why I bought it, but it was the cheapest one (200$ on sale until the 31st) and I'll only use it when riding this area. 

This was a bit out of context, but maybe some will find this story interesting : )

I'm also carrying quite a few things that I very rarely use but I always did and I don't mind it. I make sure everything is perfect on my bike before leaving for a ride, but my friends never carry tools and even if they do, I always take mine out first because I am often the one hearing a noise from their ride. Nothing is strapped on my bike, it all goes in my Camelbak Repack (1.5l of water, CrankBros multitool, clif bar, quick link, patches and tubeless plugs, small pump, tire levers, bandana and band-aids).

Since I carry water in my hip pack, I just bought a B-rad plate and strap to carry a Zoleo satellite communicator on my bike. It seems like the perfect location to make sure it doesn't get damaged if I fall on my bum bag (and to keep it as far as possible from my reproductive organs haha). 90% of the time, I'm riding black diamond trails alone, an hour or two away from any cell phone service so it adds some piece of mind.

I almost bought the B-rad version with the bag, but since the Zoleo is water and shock-resistant, I only needed the plate and strap. All my Wolf Tooth products have been awesome, well made and durable, I love what they're doing!

Thanks Steve and NSMB, that was an awesome bike check! Rad guy, rad bike!

Yep, for many reasons nowadays I buy almost all of my parts new unless it's a new take-off part from someone who seems legit. And it's worth checking homeowners' insurance policies indeed as some of them have a 1500$cdn bike limit unless you buy a separate policy for the bike.

I bought a few used bikes over the years and used this website to check if they were stolen : http://app.cpic-cipc.ca/English/searchformbikes.cfm 

If the bike was declared stolen and the serial number given to the police, it will pop up there. Like Andrew said, sometimes the seller was clearly the owner and it was not a worry (I still checked the website afterwards), but it's easy to prepare the webpage on your phone and check the serial # on the spot. 

Another thing I've done is ask for a receipt with the serial number written on the receipt. It can be a simple piece of paper with a few details, but if it's stolen, the seller will probably refuse to do this paper right away. I'm always giving one when I'm selling expensive things and it feels better for both parties involved.

The receipt can also prove helpful if you cross the borders, as it happened to me that the customs officer asked me if I had the receipt of a used bike I used to travel with in my car. That's also true for new bikes or any object of value, but since they can keep the goods unless they see the proof of purchase, having this paper somewhere at home (or scanned on your phone) can be really helpful if that happens.

I've had a bike stolen from my garage in the past and now I am much more cautious when carrying, locking and storing my bikes.

10-42 is probably good for most people indeed. I'm not the fittest around and this winter I'm riding 32t x 11-46 on my fat bike and I can climb pretty much all the steepest pitches even in sub-optimal snow conditions with 1900g tires/tubes. I'm not going to lie, the 46 gets a lot of use though haha. It's a nice luxury to have.

Your article has inspired me to be more attentive to what gear ratios I'm using on my "main" bike this summer and find out what I really need, then see what can be done to get the optimal chainline and unsprung weight setup with my current crank options. (Shimano M8120 and RF Aeffect R).

The older I get, the more I like geeking on bike stuff even if the "gains" are not even considerable for me. I'm always aiming for the most reliable/silent/efficient setup, it's part of the fun!

Thanks and keep sharing your original ideas!

I so much enjoy reading about those unusual things you come up with Andrew! New tech is cool but I find ideas like that are more interesting to read!

When I bought my new drivetrain, instead of getting the 12 spd 11-45t cassette, I got the 12 spd Deore 11-51t all-steel cassette and a 30t front ring (thanks Race Face for making a Cinch shi-12 steel ring!) so I wouldn't have to use the 51 that much and have a better chainline on the 45t. That way the 51t would see limited use, and the steel rings would last very long anyway.

I don't know if I'd still have enough range for high-speed sections or long flat commutes between places, but going to a 28t or even 26t front would mean that I could go for the next smallest cogs on the cassette and have even more centered chainline, without having to go for a manual 2x front setup. With the wide 55mm boost chainline from Shimano, maybe we will need to choose a front ring to "select" which rear cogs will see the most use and "adjust" chainline accordingly?

Unfortunately, that still keeps the unsprung weight high and derailleur cages long, but adds clearance at the BB. The big Deore cassette's weight is still 594g of unsprung mass, but it will keep me from stopping and get my gloves dirty to switch front rings and keep my crankset setup the same : )

Hi all!

I've been looking at getting a pair of Leatt DBX 1.0 shoes and was wondering if any of you are using them (or any Leatt shoes in general)? 

I like my Five Ten District but they're hot and my feet sweat in them because of the almost-sealed faux-leather. I prefer standard canvas shoes and like the Leatt 1.0's simplicity.

Any experiences with them? How's the sizing compared to 5.10? Thanks!

Yeah I think that's the best thing to do. Thanks!

Posted by: craw

I have two Cane Creek Helms (a three year old MK1 and a 1 year old MK2, both bought new) and neither creak. I won't be buying another Fox or RS fork.

Hi @craw! I don't want to derail the thread, but I hear/feel a rattle/slight knock in my new Mk1 Helm Coil and I'm wondering if it's something that you've experienced? Everything else on the bike/wheel/brake/headset is perfectly fine. Thanks!

Posted by: Endur-Bro

I dig the build.  Could you plasti-dip the coil black?

Thanks! Yes that could be an option! Since I might be a tiny bit oversprung on the 450-550 Cane Creek spring , I might try DVO's black 425-500lbs.

It's crazy that this issue has been a point leading to choosing a fork brand or another, but it was high on my list too! In fact, one of the reasons why I bought a DVO fork in the first place was the 2 year warranty. I've had two Beryl D2 who started creaking after a season, but they were made in 2018 and 2019 and they're supposed to have a new process since then. 

I have a new Diamond D2 (same fork) with a different looking CSU and made in 2020 so it should be better. Apparently they're  made in the same factory as Suntour and they're both known for creak-free CSUs. I won't complain at DVO at all though, I have received awesome customer service and a brand new fork each time (bushing problems were the main reasons). I am riding a MK1 Helm coil this summer but I'd buy another DVO in a heartbeat.

Thanks! I bought the Cane Creek progressive spring before DVO made their own but I'd definitely have chosen black if I had the choice haha! it doesn't look too bad with the Meta's paint scheme though.

My '20 Meta AM with a new build for 2021. Loving it and no plans to replace it anytime soon!

Posted by: shoreboy

Posted by: martin

Posted by: craw

Those exact characteristics make it ideal for heavier or more aggressive riders. Your experience totally aligns with my experience with RS and Fox products which never seem to work well for me without an absurd level of customization. It's good to have options!

Since I'm average weight, I guess I'll see if I'm in the more agressive rider category or not 😅

If you are getting a coil, it might well be a different experience than the air version I had. Hopefully the spring rate will be OK for you. Im assuming they offer other springs for heavier/lighter riders?

The stock spring is Medium (55lbs) but they also have 35/45/55/65.  The Ohlins supposedly fit, and they apparently have more weight choices. Since the medium s'ring that comes with the fork is recommended for 180lbs riders and that's pretty much exactly my weight with kit, it should be perfect. I should know in a bout a week when I finish building the bike!

Posted by: craw

Those exact characteristics make it ideal for heavier or more aggressive riders. Your experience totally aligns with my experience with RS and Fox products which never seem to work well for me without an absurd level of customization. It's good to have options!

Since I'm average weight, I guess I'll see if I'm in the more agressive rider category or not 😅

Can't wait to try my new Helm Coil Mk1 too! Just need to cut the steerer and install it. I got it for an awesome deal too and on Andrew's recommendation, when I changed the travel, I swapped the seals for SKF and the lowers oil for WPL 20wt. The fork is very well made both internally and externally. Easy to work on, looks super durable, and I have received awesome customer service from Nate at Cane Creek. I have a feeling that I'll like it a lot.

The good price might be an exception , especially in these days, but I have shared this because I always bought my aftermarket forks on sale. One just needs to be attentive for a deal and jump on it when it happens.

I have the same good impression and experience with DVO suspension products. I've had 3 Diamonds D2, I'm running a Jade X and have a backup Jade that I got for a great price too before Covid. They are cheaper than the big brands, you can often find a good deal on them or get a coupon for their web store, and the customer service from DVO is exemplary too. It almost feels like being a part of a family... Enough that I feel bad for running a Helm this summer haha!