Weekend hazard tree work

Here are some pictures of some different type of hazard tree's one might find on the trail.

Each one requires a different approach, and all are very very dangerous to work around.

This Cedar is one of the most dangerous type. When it blows in half there are all kinds of dangers in taking this down. The safe way is to throw a rope in and make your cuts and pull it over from a distance.

This poor Hemlock is ready to come down at any moment with no notice to anyone that might be in its path. Take a look at all the fungus on this tree. Also Look at the top and how bent it is. Even a small push could send the top down on you.

When cutting large high up wood like this its always good to work
on the uphill of the tree and keep aware as the giant round could come down and crush you bad.

In this case the only safe way was to make the first cut at 90% then sit on the tree to make the final cut. When the round drops your already clear of the danger.

Having a hand saw works great because you can hear the first cracks and be on the alert. With a chainsaw its not always easy to hear the little sounds.

Good advice.

I would also add that wearing a hardhat never hurts when falling wobbly topped snags. I've seen coworkers get hit by rotten tops on windy days and they likely were able to walk away because they were wearing a hardhat.

This Cedar is one of the most dangerous type. When it blows in half there are all kinds of dangers in taking this down. The safe way is to throw a rope in and make your cuts and pull it over from a distance.

personally i like to tackle these beasts from the fallen end and gradually buck it up, working my way back to the stump.

nice advice about using the hand saw tho to make those last cuts so you can hear what's going on.

Wouldn't a bow-saw be better than a handsaw? Just asking.

Wouldn't a bow-saw be better than a handsaw? Just asking.

that's not a regular hand saw, it's a fanno k20, vastly superior to either. bow saws are ok for cutting on the vertical (bucking) but suck on the horizontal (falling) as the bind and twist too much.

http://www.fannosaw.com/

Really good advice in here. Thanx for sharing.

that's no' a saw…

this is is a saw!

Good advice.

I would also add that wearing a hardhat never hurts when falling wobbly topped snags. I've seen coworkers get hit by rotten tops on windy days and they likely were able to walk away because they were wearing a hardhat.

Very good advise.

I wear mine at all times when working.

This is what I have and love it.

http://wesspur.com/Safety/vertex_vent_helmet.html

i have had this hemlock hanging above the trail i maintain for 2 years now. i figured it would build up some snow and break off and i wanted the top to come off soon so i can rebuild the ladder that's right underneath it.

is touching it with a saw just asking for a barber chair? should i cut a notch into the compression side to weaken it the night before some snow is forecasted? or i could borrow a grip hoist and try to pull it over? any ideas or assistance would be greatly appreciated.

i have had this hemlock hanging above the trail i maintain for 2 years now. i figured it would build up some snow and break off and i wanted the top to come off soon so i can rebuild the ladder that's right underneath it.

is touching it with a saw just asking for a barber chair? should i cut a notch into the compression side to weaken it the night before some snow is forecasted? or i could borrow a grip hoist and try to pull it over? any ideas or assistance would be greatly appreciated.

For a sucker like that it needs a plunge cut.

Howto:

- Make a very shallow face cut.
- Gage by the Diameter of the tree the amount of holding you want.
- Your tree above I would say at least a good 3 inches in direction of lean.
- Plunge saw into the tree dead center at your 3 inch holding wood mark, and in line with your shallow face cut.
- Pull back away from the face cut to the back of the tree to complete the cut.

Its the reverse cut in the end that prevents a barber.

Be warned. That tree is not for a someone who has never done this before.

Just recently took the BC Forest Safety Council/Worksafe BC Chainsaw Operators course (courtesy of the FVMBA).

It blew me away to learn how many people (not just fallers) who seriously hurt or kill themselves bucking deadfall/cutting firewood/clearing their property etc. I feel pretty lucky now to have not hurt myself over the years using such poor cutting technique and bucking deadfall and cutting cedar for bridgework with no true understanding of the dangers involved or the proper cutting order that is needed.

I highly recommend this course if you are planning on using your chainsaw for trailwork.

thanks Silk :beer:

Over here in Tchermany, you are allowed to use a chainsaw on your own property. As soon as you move into public forests, privately owned forests it can get a bit complicated, mainly because of insurance issues.

Deal is - you better take part in a course to be legally allowed to operate a chainsaw. After completion you get a sort of "licence".

I am taking part in one this coming November. And I am absolutely stoked. I know some things, but really really really want to learn more from the professionals.

Above advice is great for sure.

If on public land you should have a fallers ticket and liability insurance.

http://www.bcforestsafe.org/training/faller_certification.html

This is what I carry to keep the DNV happy at all times.