New posts

what's a good wax for coastal mountains and whistler

Jan. 4, 2008, 12:37 p.m.
Posts: 0
Joined: May 31, 2006

or very fast shirts.

Jan. 4, 2008, 12:39 p.m.
Posts: 8935
Joined: Dec. 23, 2005

definately. I bought ski clamps for 40$ probably 12 years ago, they make it alot easier, and will clamp on just about any surface.well, you can come on down to the JA tuning shop anytime. Going to have a session tonight in fact, including ptexing some Chance Creek Mainline holes. I promised Lee I'd show him the secret one of these days. He's got those new Goliaths that are slow as shit. I hope my new thunders are faster.

One other tip that I learned the hard way.

Clealy indicate which one of your irons is for shirts and which one is for skis. Beer(s) + iron that isn't for skis can lead to trouble later on.

Actually at home doing some tuning now. M's exploders edges were actually rounded. We are off to Seattle for some Cyrstal and Alpy fun with the skieattle crew and a few coming up from Tahoe.

Lee slow on those Goliaths? He prolly thinks they are supposed to make turns. Just not turing them should pick up some speed.

Jan. 7, 2008, 7 a.m.
Posts: 203
Joined: Nov. 14, 2006

Is the full core showing?

No core is showing…. so I guess my question answered. Thanks for the info! :)

again I wouldnt use a p-tex you need to light cuz the repair doesn't last in my experiance …notice tognar calls it a temporary repair

this site has alot of good stuff

Good tip! Thanks for the link… although it does appear to be incomplete though. ;)

Jan. 7, 2008, 8:18 a.m.
Posts: 14413
Joined: Nov. 20, 2002

try this one

March 5, 2016, 7:37 a.m.
Posts: 207
Joined: July 22, 2014

Back to the orig question, which wax?

I find the red is my goto. For one, I always err on the side of waxing for colder.

Why? If the wax is for warmer and you get colder or more abrasive snow, then the wax really grabs hard and slows me down fast!

But if the wax is for colder and I end up in warm,wet,soft etc, then the skis don't run as fast but they do not have the same wax issue as when the wax is warmer and snow colder.

The coast is a bitch. Sometimes wet, sometimes frozen, sometimes just below freezing but very abrasive.

To get it done, just use regular non-flouro red. Cheap stuff almost everywhere.
The flouro is great but produces so much clingy shavings from static and costs 2 times as much.

Yellow is too mellow for a true coast fresh-frozen cement mixer skier!

Red Baby. Once every 5 to 10 ski days and don't spend too much time on it. There are better things in life than waxing poetic in the man-cave.

What to wax with in the spring here? Nothing works well because the grabbiness of spring snow is usually from the POLLEN, not from the snow temps. Warm wet snow covered in Cypress Tree Sap can end your season with a sudden slow-down lurch and injury.

Seriously, for spring, just use red too.

And always bring a hot tea so that you can enjoy that last ride down with a little reflective break in a picturesque setting somewhere safe along the slope-side.

March 6, 2016, 1:38 p.m.
Posts: 494
Joined: Dec. 29, 2006

mixing yellow and pink works good too.

March 7, 2016, 11:28 a.m.
Posts: 1511
Joined: July 11, 2014

spinner I'm with you, I use the cheap big blocks of Toko red from MEC. Does the trick and I only wax every 10ish ski days. As long as I glide decently on the run-outs I am happy.

March 12, 2016, 9:28 p.m.
Posts: 207
Joined: July 22, 2014

That big Red block is great. I got one 10 years ago that was super sized, probably the same as 4 of those big red ones together in one huge skirace team shop bar for about $25.00

It had a giant 10 inch wide KUU stamped in giant 3D relief.

Needless to say, liberal application has reduced the bar to about the size of one of those small Swix bars.

The rest is evenly distributed across ski hills in North America :)

Or embedded in my lungs from waxing in an enclosed space :O

Probably explains a few things …

Forum jump: