Any DIY'ers tackle this one yourself? I've done a ton of stuff, from plumbing to electrical to framing to etc but this one is nagging at me saying I'm going to hate life and it's going to look like shit.
This one seems a hell of a lot more art than science.
It all depends on what you're doing. My number one pro-tip for all finishing stuff though is to measure all your angles - don't assume the corners are square. Find the angle and then cut it in half for your cut on the mitre saw. You can get digital inside/outside angle measurers at C-Tire for under $40, well worth it. Another tip is to use a full kerf blade on your saw. I find when doing large crown the thin kerf blades tend to wander a bit which reduces the accuracy of the cut. If you really want to go pro though then you can cope your joints.
Posted by: syncro
If you really want to go pro though then you can cope your joints.
Oh, is that what you kids are calling it now???
Posted by: syncro
It all depends on what you're doing. My number one pro-tip for all finishing stuff though is to measure all your angles - don't assume the corners are square. Find the angle and then cut it in half for your cut on the mitre saw. You can get digital inside/outside angle measurers at C-Tire for under $40, well worth it. Another tip is to use a full kerf blade on your saw. I find when doing large crown the thin kerf blades tend to wander a bit which reduces the accuracy of the cut. If you really want to go pro though then you can cope your joints.
You saw my house. Square = 90 +/- 10.
Full kerf vs thin kerf was something I've never come across, thanks.
Posted by: ReductiMat
You saw my house. Square = 90 +/- 10.
Full kerf vs thin kerf was something I've never come across, thanks.
yeah, so for sure you could benefit from the angle guide.
the thin kerf gets marketed as the "better blade" but I think it's mostly bs so the blade manufacturers saw money on material to make moar profits. it's true that the saw has to push less blade through the material your cutting which makes it a bit easier on the motor, but I'd rater have a stiffer blade for a more accurate cut. on a smaller saw like a circular saw it doesn't matter too much though as there is less blade deflection, but on something like a 12" mitre saw it makes a noticeable difference.
Posted by: syncro
Posted by: KenN
Oh, is that what you kids are calling it now???
I seen that a comin from over yonder you whippersnapper.
I need to know the lingo now that I'm single again.
If your angles are off, calking is your best friend... :)
I use scrap pieces as a template for corners that are off. Cut a small piece and make small adjustment to get the angle; saw is now set.
If putting trim on drywall (ie baseboards), cross nail with brad nailer to pull top tight to drywall.
For crown moulding, a backer helps to pull the moulding tight.
I'm thinking about that IG video you sent a while back now
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