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Bespoke Suits

Sept. 14, 2013, 5:28 p.m.
Posts: 3202
Joined: Aug. 4, 2009

Have any of you taken the plunge and decided to get one done? A buddy turned me onto a tailor who does them, at about 1200-1600 / per. He also does shirts at about 180 per. I'm going in for a shirt fitting next week, is a bespoke suit worth it though? With tailoring a 500 dollar suit looks pretty snazzy - at what point does it become "too much"?

In other news, wearing a suit every business day is mildly annoying.

Sept. 14, 2013, 5:34 p.m.
Posts: 14923
Joined: Feb. 19, 2003

Find a deal on a flight to Hong Kong, Singapore maybe Bangkok and get a tailored suit there. Probably wouldn't end up costing that much more and you'd at least get a trip out of the deal.

Sept. 14, 2013, 5:49 p.m.
Posts: 3368
Joined: Dec. 10, 2002

What Couch_Surfer said. I've heard of wedding dress trips to Bangkok being paid for to get a dress made.

Side note my wife had some work done in Bangkok and one of the pants arrived at our hotel too big in the waist. We had to fly out he next morning. Called our "guy" and he sent a dude with a sewing maching by taxi to our hotel and he fixed everything in the hotel bar. Could have easily said "bon voyage suckers", but they made it right. Can't recommend it enough

"May a commune of gay, Marxist Muslim illegal immigrants use your tax dollars to open a drive-thru abortion clinic in your church."

Sept. 14, 2013, 5:58 p.m.
Posts: 3202
Joined: Aug. 4, 2009

Find a deal on a flight to Hong Kong, Singapore maybe Bangkok and get a tailored suit there. Probably wouldn't end up costing that much more and you'd at least get a trip out of the deal.

Do they do fattening white guy like will be done over here?*

*Serious question. I've seen buddies come back with pretty trim and tiny suits that, while large enough to fit them, really don't suit them - style seems to be different?

Sept. 14, 2013, 6 p.m.
Posts: 3368
Joined: Dec. 10, 2002

They specialize in Fattening White guy. Who do you think is coming to visit all the girls? ;)

"May a commune of gay, Marxist Muslim illegal immigrants use your tax dollars to open a drive-thru abortion clinic in your church."

Sept. 14, 2013, 6:02 p.m.
Posts: 11969
Joined: June 4, 2008

Have any of you taken the plunge and decided to get one done? A buddy turned me onto a tailor who does them, at about 1200-1600 / per. He also does shirts at about 180 per. I'm going in for a shirt fitting next week, is a bespoke suit worth it though? With tailoring a 500 dollar suit looks pretty snazzy - at what point does it become "too much"?

Bespoke or made-to-measure? Are you of average build?

The nice thing about good made-to-measure Italian brands is that you can get a better idea if the cut will look good on you versus bespoke.

Does he have any name-brand wool like Zegna?

Ultimately it comes down to a lot of trust for that first one.

Sept. 14, 2013, 6:28 p.m.
Posts: 14923
Joined: Feb. 19, 2003

Do they do fattening white guy like will be done over here?*

*Serious question. I've seen buddies come back with pretty trim and tiny suits that, while large enough to fit them, really don't suit them - style seems to be different?

I chose a profession where I would not have to wear a suit. So I can't really speak from experience, but a close friend had his wedding suit and a bunch of shorts tailored in Singapore and they fit beautifully. I'm sure if you take photos of the style you like, they will fit it to your taste (that is the point of custom made isn't it?).

Sept. 14, 2013, 6:42 p.m.
Posts: 3202
Joined: Aug. 4, 2009

Bespoke or made-to-measure? Are you of average build?

The nice thing about good made-to-measure Italian brands is that you can get a better idea if the cut will look good on you versus bespoke.

Does he have any name-brand wool like Zegna?

Ultimately it comes down to a lot of trust for that first one.

I haven't decided yet, made to measure is a little cheaper - around 1500, just got an answer back from my bud that does bespoke, his priciest is 4000 but is showing no wear after 6 years of regular use, his cheapest is 2000 and has the same quality. Most guys at the office at my level go to a fellow named Giovanni Nicoletti, and all their suits look awesome. I picked up a sale item at the bay as a test for him with my body type, along with ordering a couple shirts (fitting appointment next week - but even at that, off the rack and tailored suits still don't look awful,they just aren't quite as "finished".

A quick look through lonely planet and trip adviser says that traveling for bespoke might not be the best.

I'm kinda tending away from the bespoke thing after that text / can think of better ways to spend that kind of money.

Sept. 14, 2013, 6:56 p.m.
Posts: 11969
Joined: June 4, 2008

Most guys at the office at my level go to a fellow named Giovanni Nicoletti

Well, it's going to be a flyer for your first one regardless. Bone up on your twisted wools.

I can only offer one more opinion. Fuck the 'level' thing. Buy a suit that makes you feel like James Bond, even if you're a mail clerk. Cost isn't the sole determinant of that.

If you aren't far off from an average build, you might find a Canali, an Armani or a Zegna fit fantastic near out of the box. Those three are very well built and Rosen back the things they sell very well.

All that said, custom shirts are worth it.

Sept. 14, 2013, 7:17 p.m.
Posts: 3202
Joined: Aug. 4, 2009

Well, it's going to be a flyer for your first one regardless. Bone up on your twisted wools.

I can only offer one more opinion. Fuck the 'level' thing. Buy a suit that makes you feel like James Bond, even if you're a mail clerk. Cost isn't the sole determinant of that.

If you aren't far off from an average build, you might find a Canali, an Armani or a Zegna fit fantastic near out of the box. Those three are very well built and Rosen back the things they sell very well.

All that said, custom shirts are worth it.

Good reminder - "the rat race" is relatively new to me, after all, in my small town nobody gave two shits about clothing.

Out of the box, Samuelsohn fits the best - Armani pinches too much at my upper back in their cuts, and the sleeves require extensive tailoring anyway. Right now I've got Samuelsohn, CK, Arnold Brandt, and Coppley 1883 in the closet. I haven't tried anything by Canali, I definitely will!

Sept. 14, 2013, 7:54 p.m.
Posts: 11969
Joined: June 4, 2008

Good reminder - "the rat race" is relatively new to me, after all, in my small town nobody gave two shits about clothing.

Out of the box, Samuelsohn fits the best - Armani pinches too much at my upper back in their cuts, and the sleeves require extensive tailoring anyway. Right now I've got Samuelsohn, CK, Arnold Brandt, and Coppley 1883 in the closet. I haven't tried anything by Canali, I definitely will!

One more thing. You could have a five digit suit and make it look like it was from Tip Top if you wear $100 Aldo shoes with it. If you're going big, go big in the leather department. Dropping large coin on shoes and belts might make you blanche, but they will last many lives longer than the equivalent cardboard and plastic crap the department stores put out.

Sept. 14, 2013, 9:03 p.m.
Posts: 3202
Joined: Aug. 4, 2009

One more thing. You could have a five digit suit and make it look like it was from Tip Top if you wear $100 Aldo shoes with it. If you're going big, go big in the leather department. Dropping large coin on shoes and belts might make you blanche, but they will last many lives longer than the equivalent cardboard and plastic crap the department stores put out.

First thing I did when I moved into the office was stop at Fluevog and O'Connors. I do have a couple pairs of Stacy Adams too, but most of my shoes are JF or Mezlan. I'm after a brown and a black boot next for fall. My thoughts on shoes has always been to buy the best - redwings when I was less labor intensive in the field, dunlops when I was more. Fitted runners. Etc… I figure that most of these leather shoes can be repaired by a cobbler instead of tossed, so it's worth the coin.

Sept. 14, 2013, 9:18 p.m.
Posts: 13940
Joined: March 15, 2003

I have a couple pairs of Allen Edmonds shoes. Hand made in USA, great quality. They do boots as well. http://www.allenedmonds.com/

Sept. 14, 2013, 9:46 p.m.
Posts: 15758
Joined: May 29, 2004

Lol suits and dress shoes, in the nicest way possible.

Pastor of Muppets

Sept. 14, 2013, 9:58 p.m.
Posts: 3202
Joined: Aug. 4, 2009

Ya, they sell them at O'Connors as well. I like 'em. These bad boys (fluevog) are getting added next week. Might go for something higher for the black pair, yet undecided… Allen E might be a good choice!

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