How To Get Started?

May sound kinda dumb…..I know, but Im looking at getting a roady in the near future but have no idea whats what.

I need to know what I should be looking for, parts wise, size, price etc……

When im in a shop, I gots to tell ya, I cant tell much of a differrence between a $1400 bike and a $6000 bike(been on mtbs to long I guess), and the parts all look the same. Im looking at spending around $2000…….what should I be going for????

Thanks for any responces

May sound kinda dumb…..I know, but Im looking at getting a roady in the near future but have no idea whats what.

I need to know what I should be looking for, parts wise, size, price etc……

When im in a shop, I gots to tell ya, I cant tell much of a differrence between a $1400 bike and a $6000 bike(been on mtbs to long I guess), and the parts all look the same. Im looking at spending around $2000…….what should I be going for????

Thanks for any responces

Right around 2k canadian? Take a look at the Cannondale R800, Specialized Allez Comp Double. For about 2k you'll get a quality aluminum frame with 105 components, carbon fork, carbon seatpost, and a pretty good wheelset. There's DeVinci and Norco bikes with similar frames/specs, but I'll use these two as an example:

http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=13014

http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/06/CUSA/model-6RR8D.html

if you're shopping for a campy-equipped bike (at least in vancouver) you'll be paying well above $2k, so i'll leave out the campy for now.

deore = tiagra
X7 or LX = 105
X9 or XT = ultegra
X0 or XTR = dura ace

tiagra is the entry level 9-speed group with proper brake-shift levers. it's pretty close in price to deore for stuff like derailleurs, crankset, etc. 105 is a step above, still nine speed, but higher quality, lighter weight, etc. ultegra and dura ace (6600 and 7800) are really close in quality, the main difference is weight. a full dura ace component set, including crankset, is about 300g lighter than full ultegra.

complicating the 105/ultegra/dura ace comparison is the fact that each group has two separate series on the market simultaneously.

old 105 (manufactured sept. 2005 and prior) is the 5500 series, it's nine speed. my bike has 5500 on it, works great. just released a few months ago is the new 5600 series ten speed 105, it's starting to ship now on 2006 model year bikes. one of the main new features in the 10 speed 105 (found on the cannondale R800) is the hollowtech bottom bracket, instead of octalink. same idea as the external bearing XT and XTR cranksets. lighter and stiffer.

old ultegra (6500 series, manufactured prior to the 2004 model year) is nine speed, new ultegra (6600 series) is 10-speed and has a lot in common with the latest dura ace.

old dura ace (7700 series) was used on top tier pro bikes for the 2003 season and earlier, it was replaced in 2004 with the 7800 series.

Shimano has removed the 6500 and 7700 series parts from their website, but you can still find photos of it on ebay and via google for comparison purposes.

the stuff is all interchangable, for example, you'll find some bikes that have ten speed ultegra shifters and a dura ace rear derailleur, or a bike with 105 shifters and an ultegra derailleur.

2006 Allez Comp Double

Phone the Bike Barn in Penticton. They usually have a fair stock of bikes for sale.

Another tip is to come down here to Seattle and buy one while it's still the off season. There's far more road bikes around simply by virtue of population and a big road ride scene.

I think that thug Smoke poached a pic of one of my roadies one night when I was swillin beers down at the Cove last year…
[HTML_REMOVED]---- oh ya, that's it.

always remember to buy what feels the most comfortable for you and dont settle until you are happy. too many times ive seen people who dont know road bikes that well get talked into buying something that they shouldnt have.

always go for a decent test ride to make sure the bike fits properly.

Get a bike that fits.

Use an online fit calculator. Measure and punch in your numbers to get a rough idea of where you should be size-wise. Take your numbers in and start test riding some bikes in your size range. Most likely you'll have to go a little smaller or larger, so you need to think about your riding style/position (aggressive for racing or relaxed for most other stuff).

Also consider your terrain and whether you will do a lot of alpine riding (gearing choice, cassette, double vs triple vs. compact). The shop should be willing to at least switch out the stem for a better fit. If the shop doesn't listen to you when you ask about this stuff, then walk out and find a new one or go in with someone who knows road stuff.

I would not get too anal about equipment choices at this point. If you really get into, then you can start upgrading or buy your dream bike. Don't forget to budget for clipless pedals, shoes (MTB clipless is fine), frame/mini pump or CO2, and, yes, spandies. Luckily, running costs for road tend to be low.

Here's a basic fit calculator:

http://www.zinncycles.com/FitIntro.aspx

Hey thanks for the responces guys…..much appreciated!

thewalrus….great info, maybe its just chance, buy ive been looking at the cannondale r800 for a little while. Guess my instincts aren`t so bad. Some of the info you supplied me with is still a little over my head, but i gots to learn i guess.

Moose…..thanks, but I only go to a few good shops around Vancouver and I trust the guys I deal with.

Sanrensho……great site…much appreciated. I`m going to use that info to help narrow my searching.

Again, thanks guy….cheers

Rod

Yeah, I forgot to mention the most important bit (which somebody has helpfully added). Fit is VERY important! It's not like freeride bikes, which might come in 3 frame sizes, small/medium/large.

I'm 6' or 5'11" on a lazy day and ride a 58cm bike. Most road bike manufacturers have a geometry schematic for each model on their websites.

For example my bike, though it has a sloping top tube, has a "virtual" top tube length of 58.5cm measured from the centre of the headtube to the centre of the seat tube at the seatpost collar. Measurement "C" in the image below. Cannondales and Treks which have horizontal top tubes should be similar (I think 58cm Treks are 58.0 long).

Your inseam length for pants is also helpful when sizing a bike. Other parts on a bike will come proportional to the size. Really small frames, like 50cm for women will have 167.5mm length cranks or 170.0. Medium sized frames will usually come with 170 or 172.5. The 56cm version of my bike I test-rode at the shop had 172.5. The 58 and 60 came with 175mm.

Don't let a shop start putting on a really short or really long stem to make a bike fit you. They might just be trying to sell old inventory if you don't appear slightly knowledageble about sizing.

For tons more info go to http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?f=41 and search the forum titles for "fitting" or "fit".

Here is a 2005 Trek 2100 geometry image, it's pretty typical for traditional frame shaped road bikes:

Don't let a shop start putting on a really short or really long stem to make a bike fit you. They might just be trying to sell old inventory if you don't appear slightly knowledageble about sizing.

I agree with this if you're talking about extremes. Like a [HTML_REMOVED]50 cm stem or 130 cm stem. However, it isn't that unusual to have to go to those extremes if you're a very short or tall rider or have unusual body proportions.

It is very common to swap stem sizes, but it is not a substitute for picking the right frame size.

I agree with this if you're talking about extremes. Like a [HTML_REMOVED]50 cm stem or 130 cm stem. However, it isn't that unusual to have to go to those extremes if you're a very short or tall rider or have unusual body proportions.

It is very common to swap stem sizes, but it is not a substitute for picking the right frame size.

There's a guy who commutes to an office building I work at downtown on a 64cm Cannondale CAAD7 R700. I've never seen the person who owns the bike, but judging from the frame size and saddle position of the bike, he must be huge.

Just for the record, Im 6 foot 2 inches. I dont have one of those freakish bodies with long arms or legs etc. Fairly normal I figure. Hopefully this will mean that I won`t have to much trouble fitting a bike to myself.

Just for the record, Im 6 foot 2 inches. I dont have one of those freakish bodies with long arms or legs etc. Fairly normal I figure. Hopefully this will mean that I won`t have to much trouble fitting a bike to myself.

How heavy? If you're a clydesdale, you might notice differences in stiffness from frame/fork/wheels/bb/crank/bars. Make sure you do some really hard launches to get a feel for it. OS bar (31.8 mm) might be a good idea, although they might be standard on off the shelf bikes by now.

You'll probably ride a 60 or a 62, depending on how long your torso and arms are… Try a 58cm of the same model to confirm that it's too short as well.

Who is the mod for this forum? This thread should be permanently stickied so first-time buyers read it first before asking more specific questions. I know that I've posted a lot of this info multiple times in the Gear forum.

Oh, and no undies under your spandies, kids. (Not addressed to Rowdy01 specifically, but to newbs.)

hey rowdy , there's nothing like a road bike for efficiency on pavement , but if you got an old hardtail , or access to one cheap , a set of slicks or commuter / touring tires pumped up real hard with clipless shoes and pedals will give you an opportunity to get a feel for the road . good thing to have to get you through the winter . . . .