I think alot of talk on the front tires….anyone have any suggestions for a rear tire?
I'm planning on running the Minion Exo 60.
winter xc/am tire options
Makes me think Clark…. I dont experiment too much with tires but my storage locker is full to bursting with 'em. How many tires have you got in your garage!!!? lol
the stack is shorter than me (though not by much). when it gets overhead i start purging.
i've settled on rampage SC 2.35 front and nevegal sticky 2.1 rear (both with every other transition knob cut). good traction, not too slow, not too heavy. conti trail king 2.2 is also about 700 grams, so its a slightly less sticky but faster option. it has a much more compliant/"active" sidewall than the other two which feel more dead/muted, so care must be taken in steep tight corners, but its easy to get used to.
many more options at 800+ grams (ie. super tacky maxxis) but that's for another thread.
I've got 2 Minion 2.35 super tacky's coming my way for the winter hardtail. A lot of the riding around here requires climbing on smooth rock, so a sticky tire on the back as well as the front is required.
sounds like I'll be looking at a 500g weight penalty compared to the 2.35/2.1 Nevegal stick e's I am currently running on the hardtail. Oh well, should only make me fitter….
River City Cycle Club - www.rivercitycycle.ca
Comox Valley Mountain Biking - www.cvmtb.com
Minion super tacky 2.35 comes in a folding bead. At least the ones on my bike do….
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hate to say you're wrong, but i'm pretty sure the only come in wire bead, same goes for all maxxis super-tacky tires i believe.
So where can you get the folding Minion 2.35 super tacks? I just settled for the wire bead version and yeah they are pretty heavy at 800g each.
My bad, the 2.35 minions super tacky single ply DO have a wire bead. However, because of the single ply, they come in at about 800g, which is a lot less than the 2.5 double ply..
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So where can you get the folding Minion 2.35 super tacks? I just settled for the wire bead version and yeah they are pretty heavy at 800g each.
You can't
My bad, the 2.35 minions super tacky single ply DO have a wire bead. However, because of the single ply, they come in at about 800g, which is a lot less than the 2.5 double ply..
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because he speaks the truth.
'Tis true.
The tire performed awesome lastnight! No perceptible squish and amazing grip on the grease.
New tires and new cleats, I'm unstoppable!
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How would a 2.35 60a DHR compare to a 2.35 60a DHF as a rear tire? Currently running the DHF on the back and climbing traction sucks balls. I have a DHR kicking around here somewhere. I tried to mount up a 2.1 Stick E Nevegal this afternoon, but blew a huge hole in the sidewall trying to get the bead to seat. Man that was loud.
I'm digging Kenda Excavator and Telonix these days. Various configs, dual compound, good q.c, affordable and pretty durable.
I'm rockin' some 1.95 Ground Controls.
Freshness…………
Freedom of contract. We sell them guns that kill them; they sell us drugs that kill us.
I used to only ride Ground Control S's….great tires. Wonder how they would compare to todays tires?
How would a 2.35 60a DHR compare to a 2.35 60a DHF as a rear tire? Currently running the DHF on the back and climbing traction sucks balls. I have a DHR kicking around here somewhere. I tried to mount up a 2.1 Stick E Nevegal this afternoon, but blew a huge hole in the sidewall trying to get the bead to seat. Man that was loud.
The DHR? It sucks at everything.
If you are doing lots of climbing where you need tons of traction, sometimes a DH style tread pattern works better reversed for climbing. As long as there's a good sized square edge hitting the ground first then climbing will be better.
Just look at your tire as it rolls. Look at which part of the knob hits the ground first, then that will determine which direction to run it. For example, if you want better climbing traction from a DH-F, then reverse it. You'll still have decent braking traction too.
Now go back to the DH-F and look at that massive channel and 45 degree inside bevel on those center knobs. That essentially is taking away the tire's critical traction (ie: braking and climbing stand-up traction. Leaning it over is much better). Now when its brand new, it works ok, but that's mostly because the tire is at its best. What that center knob does is channel dirt through it, unlike a center block which will 'plow' into that dirt. Get what I'm saying? With that tire, they went for something that kinda looked good without actually thinking about knob shape and placement. The side knobs are brilliantly simple, as are most Maxxis tires.
That's why I believe to make a good overall conditions rear tire, most of the time there should be a center block. It gives you excellent braking traction and good climbing traction. The only downside it rolling resistance, but given the extra traction, I'd call that a fair trade-off.
Maxxis has some good tires coming out and I've got my grubby hands into the bowl. Stay tuned……
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