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Who makes the strongest freehub?

Feb. 14, 2014, 10:51 p.m.
Posts: 61
Joined: April 1, 2010

WeTYC;

Are the 18poe ratchets still readily available?

Another thing is customer support. CK and Hadley should be super?

HWTXXX00NSK24S is the DT part number for an 18-pt hub service kit with two ratchets, springs, and grease. It's US mail-order price is typically around US$50. That's basically a full free-wheel rebuild.

In comparison, HWDXXX00N2884S is a pair of 36-pt ratchets and it goes for ~US$100!

When they introduced the 36-pt upgrade, it retailed for closer to US$50 but after a year or so they decided to double the price. (I can just see that meeting, "Hey, now that it has a proven track record for lasting less than 1/4 as long, let's double the price!")

Oh, and the most recent 18-pt ratchets I've seen have the extra "lightening groove" machined into them like the 36-pt ones in your smaller picture. (Earlier 18-pt ratchets are solid)

I know nothing of DT's support either through Canadian or US distributors because I've never needed it.

Feb. 14, 2014, 10:58 p.m.
Posts: 751
Joined: Aug. 14, 2003

True, the 350s are extremely well made.

One way to get them cheap, is to buy a pair of OEM Giant wheels. If you're on a 29er, you can pick up a set of their P-XC wheels for under $200 from someone upgrading. The rims are decently tough, and although the wheels are not light, they're serviceable. The front is a Giant brand, but the rear uses DT 350 internals, and has really good engagement. I'm guessing they use the same dealeeo on their 26 inch wheels (which they don't really make much anymore).

Should note, some models used mid-range Shimano parts, but the 2013 ones on the mid to high 29er range were DT Swiss.

Feb. 14, 2014, 11:26 p.m.
Posts: 15019
Joined: April 5, 2007

The Giant road bike Im on catalog spec'ed the bike with Swiss internal hubs, which are 240s

Why slag free swag?:rolleyes:

ummm, as your doctor i recommend against riding with a scaphoid fracture.

Feb. 14, 2014, 11:27 p.m.
Posts: 4295
Joined: June 24, 2010

I have to jump in and say that I have blown apart one 18 tooth DT freehub, but as noted here, they are easily serviceable and I've run these quite a bit without issue otherwise. That hub was under 10 hours of use. Could have been something up with installation etc which I didn't do so I can't comment.

flickr

Feb. 15, 2014, 8:17 a.m.
Posts: 20
Joined: Aug. 20, 2010

The Hope distributor is NRG in Nelson… just down the road from me. They usually have spares in stock. And as I recall Hope changed their axle design not too long ago to alleviate the axle issues.

NRG provides good support, too. (I broke a seal when doing maintenance, was pleasantly surprised that distributor was in bc - and they didn't charge for the bits despite it being my fault.

Feb. 15, 2014, 8:35 a.m.
Posts: 5731
Joined: June 24, 2003

I have had skipping issues with both DT star ratchets. The key is use very light and very little grease. Especially the rapid engagement ratchet. If there is enough grease to make the freehub quiet, there' stood much.

Debate? Bikes are made for riding not pushing.

Feb. 15, 2014, 9:09 a.m.
Posts: 15759
Joined: May 29, 2004

I have a Hadley that is at least 12 years old that has at least 1000 rides on it that has needed nothing more than cleaning,grease and 1 bearing.

Pastor of Muppets

Feb. 15, 2014, 9:49 a.m.
Posts: 2121
Joined: Nov. 6, 2005

This whole thread as with most "best of" is highly subjective. Get the colourful one that matches your pedals and you'll be set.

Feb. 15, 2014, 10:35 a.m.
Posts: 2412
Joined: Sept. 5, 2012

I have a Hadley that is at least 12 years old that has at least 1000 rides on it that has needed nothing more than cleaning,grease and 1 bearing.

wish i could say the same about my Hadley hub it,s needs a complete rebuild i did new bearings and such and a few weeks later it was all loose and sloppy , even using the proper tools from Hadley to tighten it all up it gets loose a ride or two .

#northsidetrailbuilders

Feb. 15, 2014, 11:31 a.m.
Posts: 955
Joined: Oct. 23, 2006

I have an 11 year old pair of CK. I have never had a single issue despite a strict adherence to regular power washing and lubing every 7 1/2 years.

I cannot see how the one up would work for you on anything other than a steel free hub body, which King offers in the HD version or aftermarket.
Backcountry.com recently had rear 142mm for less than $300. I'm no 200lb monster but I've broken my share of freehubs and even broken a saint axle. King is king.

Feb. 15, 2014, 11:54 a.m.
Posts: 0
Joined: April 14, 2011

been running Hope hubs for many years including their Bulb and Pro II, Pro II Evo and Pro III mono (road)

they've been a lot more reliable than many brands I've owned, including King which really just did not like the constant wet / muddy onslaught in the UK which would penetrate the freehub and cause it to slip under power, requiring regular strip and rebuilds

good number of my customers also found the same issue, fed up paying for hub services, sold their Kings and got Hopes with very few having any further issues. The Hope hubs are super easy to take apart and clean up with no special tools, and use common industrial bearings. Freehub parts easily attainable through Hope dealers.

I've had a couple of issues with Hope Pro II's, have broken a few springs (that extend the pawls) but this was on a Banshee Rampant used for skatepark / slopestyle so lots of heavy pressure pedal tricks, riding backwards (!) and abuse. No damage to the pawls or drive ring and Hope sent out new springs FOC.

have seen "notching" mainly on customer's bikes with non-spider cassettes, but this is easily cleaned up with HSS file after leveraging the sprockets off with screwdriver, and does not tend to cause any structural issues.

more recently on my road bike the cassette notching was very severe after 6 months of use (even with spider cassette), but as usual Hope stepped up to the plate and replaced the body FOC no questions asked.

Hope do offer their hubs with a much more durable steel freehub body, this is somewhat heavier but would be an ideal choice - they used this material on their singlespeed / trials hub (which also had offset pawls) and that hub was super bombproof and commonly used by DJ and trials guys with few issues.

Feb. 15, 2014, 3:39 p.m.
Posts: 1
Joined: Aug. 4, 2008

I bought a Hadley SS hub around five years ago, put a 12t steel cog on it, and never touched it again (other than lacing up new rims). Just today I took the cog off and had a look at the damage…none. The freehub is in factory shape, there's not a mark on it. You could run your finger along the splines and not feel any imperfection. Way better than the steel freehub on my old Hope hub.

Feb. 15, 2014, 5:05 p.m.
Posts: 289
Joined: Dec. 11, 2002

I've got a 10 year old DT/Hugi on my current DH bike. Never a problem with the freehub/ratchet. Service it once a year, replace bearings, good to go. I've also got a CK on my Shinobi, it's also been on a few different bikes over the years. Again, never a problem with the freehub, I did however break an axle but that was on my old DH bike. Fixed up and been great since.

Feb. 15, 2014, 5:15 p.m.
Posts: 632
Joined: Jan. 27, 2010

This whole thread as with most "best of" is highly subjective. Get the colourful one that matches your pedals and you'll be set.

Funny thing is , I have never seen a hub as scratched up as my pedals!;)

Feb. 16, 2014, 10:17 a.m.
Posts: 1055
Joined: Jan. 31, 2005

Would a Ti freehub body be considered stronger than steel?

You can get steel freehubs for King, DT/Hugi and Hopes. In the past when I shredded the stock alloy one I have switched to steel and had no further issues. Plus it's much cheaper than Ti.

There's nothing better than an Orangina after cheating death with Digger.

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