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What gear ratio are you running?

July 16, 2015, 10:11 a.m.
Posts: 609
Joined: Oct. 20, 2004

If you want to run a 28T chainring you will need direct mount cranks. I believe the smallest chainring you can install with regular bolt mount cranks is 30T.

I have direct mount X9 cranks so I should be fine to down size the front end. I think I'm going to try a 28 or 30 tooth chainring. Thanks for all the advice.

total scam. he put food before beer.

July 16, 2015, 10:25 a.m.
Posts: 136
Joined: Nov. 19, 2002

fair enough to the other points, everyone and everyone's typical riding is different…mine includes getting to and from rides via road/valley trail/etc and I can't stand spinning my legs like the road runner and not even going fast when I just want to get to or from somewhere…let alone riding on fast rolling trails where sometimes you do want more power and top end. personally I find 1x too limiting and way too much compromise for my liking, but in the everlasting words of The Dude, that's just like, my opinion man. :)

July 16, 2015, 10:47 a.m.
Posts: 15019
Joined: April 5, 2007

Ran 32t x 11-36 10 spd on a 6" AM 26er and a 29er HT for a few years.
Switched the HT to 28t x 10-42 11 spd. Should've went 30t but none were out yet.
I'd likely go 32t 11x40 11spd on the next bike I build up

Current gearing is
28t x 10-42 11spd
36t x 11-19 7spd
32t x 11-32 10spd
53/39t x 11-28 10spd

Why slag free swag?:rolleyes:

ummm, as your doctor i recommend against riding with a scaphoid fracture.

July 16, 2015, 12:01 p.m.
Posts: 809
Joined: Dec. 22, 2002

fair enough to the other points, everyone and everyone's typical riding is different…mine includes getting to and from rides via road/valley trail/etc and I can't stand spinning my legs like the road runner and not even going fast when I just want to get to or from somewhere…let alone riding on fast rolling trails where sometimes you do want more power and top end. personally I find 1x too limiting and way too much compromise for my liking, but in the everlasting words of The Dude, that's just like, my opinion man. :)

Gosh, if that's what you say about 1x, what do you say to the singlespeeders?

NSMBA member.

July 16, 2015, 12:18 p.m.
Posts: 136
Joined: Nov. 19, 2002

Gosh, if that's what you say about 1x, what do you say to the singlespeeders?

I've been known to SS, and spin my legs out like an idiot when it's flat. If you're going to go 1x, you might as well go 1xHTFU

July 16, 2015, 1:24 p.m.
Posts: 3801
Joined: April 13, 2003

I'm old school… 650b, 1x10 with 32x36 gearing and rarely in the easiest gear. My SRAM 1099 cassette is lighter than 11 sp and on it's 5th year. I would only go 11sp to get more top end (36t up front) but not really needed on the Shore.

:canada:

July 16, 2015, 1:46 p.m.
Posts: 966
Joined: Feb. 28, 2014

do you guys not like having top end speed? I can't even tolerate how fast I spin out with a 32x11 or how much time I have to spend way down at the bottom of the cogset…I can't imagine how annoying a 28t singlering would be if you like going fast

^ this x1000. Occasionally I think I want a 30t front ring, but in reality I would rather walk up a climb than lose top end.

July 16, 2015, 1:49 p.m.
Posts: 136
Joined: Nov. 19, 2002

^ this x1000. Occasionally I think I want a 30t front ring, but in reality I would rather walk up a climb than lose top end.

after I had my samurai set up 1x1, I left the 30t singlering on and put my 11x36 cassette back on, it sucked how fast I'd spin out.

July 16, 2015, 2:14 p.m.
Posts: 401
Joined: Nov. 28, 2002

I went full wimp to 26T paired with 10-42 on a 650b. And so far on the Shore and in Squamish I've found it to be a pretty great set-up. My thought process was this (and I present this in the spirit of The Dude and not as the Only Truth):

1. While I could pedal my original 30T, there were a few very steep climbs or times when I was very fatigued that I really wanted lower.

2. I didn't love the gap from the 42T cog to the 36T cog. Not terrible but less than awesome.

3. By going to a 26T, my "normal" steep climbing gear is 26-36 and the next cog is 32T, which is a bit better spacing. 42T is a true bail out gear and is rarely used (but is fantastic when I need it)

4. Top end of the 26-10 is 34km/h at 100rpm (650b). That never seems to be a problem on trail (if Gwin can win chainless, I probably can find more speed with better technique vs. pedalling). And 34km/h on knobbies seems pretty good on the road to me. Plus I can spin my road bike pedals at 110rpm… I probably have a few more km/h if I want them.

5. My chainline is better since I spend more time in the middle of the cassette. And wear on these 1x systems does seem to be an issue so I think that's a good thing.

July 16, 2015, 2:33 p.m.
Posts: 1455
Joined: Nov. 8, 2003

fair enough to the other points, everyone and everyone's typical riding is different…mine includes getting to and from rides via road/valley trail/etc and I can't stand spinning my legs like the road runner and not even going fast when I just want to get to or from somewhere…let alone riding on fast rolling trails where sometimes you do want more power and top end. personally I find 1x too limiting and way too much compromise for my liking, but in the everlasting words of The Dude, that's just like, my opinion man. :)

I ride road to the trail too. Difference in gearing needed between road and mountain is just huge.

I used to run 24/36 x 11-36. Worked good for both. Little low on the road but doable. 42 front would be perfect road.

Then went to 11sp and just said fuck it to the road gearing. On 30 x 10-42 now. Amazing perfect for Trail for me. (I'm a single track climber).

….Lots of coasting down hills on the road.

https://nsmba.ca/product-category/memberships/

July 19, 2015, 7:36 a.m.
Posts: 6449
Joined: Nov. 19, 2002

I can't understand how running something like a 30t "big ring" with a 24t bailout that requires you to stop, get off the bike, manually shift back and forth during a ride is a better compromise than simply learning to set up and maintain a front derailleur and keeping a true wide-range of gearing. It seems to me that at this point you've got a big ring that still severely limits your top speed with the hassle of stopping and manually switching to a granny for longer climbs, worst of both worlds if you ask me but I must be missing something, so please enlighten me.

You'll have to pry my 38t big ring out of my cold dead hands..more gearing = more fun on the bike IMO.

July 19, 2015, 8:35 a.m.
Posts: 136
Joined: Nov. 19, 2002

I can't understand how running something like a 30t "big ring" with a 24t bailout that requires you to stop, get off the bike, manually shift back and forth during a ride is a better compromise than simply learning to set up and maintain a front derailleur and keeping a true wide-range of gearing. It seems to me that at this point you've got a big ring that still severely limits your top speed with the hassle of stopping and manually switching to a granny for longer climbs, worst of both worlds if you ask me but I must be missing something, so please enlighten me.

You'll have to pry my 38t big ring out of my cold dead hands..more gearing = more fun on the bike IMO.

exactly

July 19, 2015, 10:34 a.m.
Posts: 2404
Joined: Sept. 5, 2012

currently running a 32 up front with a 10/42 11spd in the back , may try a 28t or 30t for some spots next year , a 32 is tough to pedal up Veddar

#northsidetrailbuilders

July 19, 2015, 12:25 p.m.
Posts: 1183
Joined: June 20, 2010

I can't understand how running something like a 30t "big ring" with a 24t bailout that requires you to stop, get off the bike, manually shift back and forth during a ride is a better compromise than simply learning to set up and maintain a front derailleur and keeping a true wide-range of gearing. It seems to me that at this point you've got a big ring that still severely limits your top speed with the hassle of stopping and manually switching to a granny for longer climbs, worst of both worlds if you ask me but I must be missing something, so please enlighten me.

You'll have to pry my 38t big ring out of my cold dead hands..more gearing = more fun on the bike IMO.

I had a bail out granny on my bike for a while. It never got used so i took it off. Heading to the chilcotins tomorrow so it might go back on. But it was there mainly for a bail out after an injury or something would stop you riding like normal. I barely pedal on downs and find a 32/36 ratio enough for all but the steepest shit here.

July 19, 2015, 4:45 p.m.
Posts: 1375
Joined: Sept. 30, 2006

I can't understand how running something like a 30t "big ring" with a 24t bailout that requires you to stop, get off the bike, manually shift back and forth during a ride is a better compromise than simply learning to set up and maintain a front derailleur and keeping a true wide-range of gearing. It seems to me that at this point you've got a big ring that still severely limits your top speed with the hassle of stopping and manually switching to a granny for longer climbs, worst of both worlds if you ask me but I must be missing something, so please enlighten me.

You'll have to pry my 38t big ring out of my cold dead hands..more gearing = more fun on the bike IMO.

You lose close to a pound in weight ditching the front shifter, front derailler, housing, and chainguide. Clears up space on the handlebars as well. Each to their own I guess. I switched over to 1 x 10 fully expecting not to like it. So far it hasn't really limited me on the high or low end, so I am going to stick with it for now. The 24T bailout ring would only go on if I was going on an epic where I might get stuck on some endless climbs that required me to sit and spin.

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