'waterproof' grease?

grease is use in stem bolts cause of cost plain and simple neversieze is expensive and when manufacturing every penny counts. I will give you one point grease is better than nothing at all but trust me neversieze for bolts that you want to remove easy after a long wet season is the only way to go. Talk to any trade mechanic and they will tell you the same thing.

As for a waterproof grease any petroluem based grease is waterproof to a point but it will wash away in time. A good silicone grease IE type for brake calipers slide bolts on cars is a true waterproof grease and resists wash off but again it is not a good ball bearing grease cause does not envolope around the bearing but for plain brass type bearings and shafts it amazing

just cause a lbs mechanic has been doing it for years does not mean there is a better product or a better way of doing something maybe that person is stuck in his/her way of doing things.

just my 2 cents

dustin

i like phil's grease. the best.

I use a dab of grease to get rid of squeaks and creaks ,if the bolt keeps loosening off I use loctite

I would never use grease on any rotor mounting bolts…brake heats up, grease melts and runs onto rotor contaminating pads

use blue loctite on rotor bolts ;)

loctite is designed to "fill-in" tolerance gaps in screw threads and fixings, and works by stopping these minute gaps from allowing vibration to rattle the fixing loose, it effectively catches the fixing until broken with torque from allen key tool

grease is different proposition altogether…

regreasing "sealed" cartridge bearings is a good trick, pop the outer seal with scalpel or needle (anything that will pop the seal without deforming it), pump some grease in there with grease gun or smear in with finger, replace seal and spin…

if the bearing is sitting in a bearing socket (i.e. frame swingarm) I press the chuck of an electric drill against the bearing's inner race and use the drill to spin it, so that fresh the grease is pushed throughout the bearing

I would never use grease on any rotor mounting bolts…brake heats up, grease melts and runs onto rotor contaminating pads

use blue loctite on rotor bolts ;)

that would be one place I would loctite [HTML_REMOVED] not grease

talk to us about the special perils of mtnbiking in england ,NO not the food ,I understand the soil is mostly limestone ,so mix with frequent showers and it eats mtn bikes ?

Most torque values are for clean, non-lubricated fittings. If you torque a fitting that is greased, you run the risk of stripping either the bolt or the thread; in the case of steel into aluminum the aluminum will strip out. If you are using a non sieze compound then you are not worrying about torque, just tightening something so it is snug as once again the bolt tension for the torque value you are using is going to be way to high and you run the risk of breaking somehing. there are a lot of resources out there for torquing and lubrication. For one of the posters who said that they run mineral oil in bearings, the bearing is supposed to run on a thin layer of lubricant and if the lubricant is too thin, the beraring then runs metal to metal. Sealed bearings are OK because they are lubricated from the factory and generally are replaced when they need lubrication. Not many adjustable bearings are factory sealed and they do require lubrication. I use a good general purpose lithium base wheelbearing grease.

talk to us about the special perils of mtnbiking in england ,NO not the food ,I understand the soil is mostly limestone ,so mix with frequent showers and it eats mtn bikes ?

we have all kinds of random, filthy weather constantly and all kinds of different soils types that enjoy eating mountain bike components for breakfast

the UK is shimano's #2 MTN-bike disc brake market for good reason ;)

I'm pretty sure my Thomson stem instructions recommended greasing the bolts before torquing them down. I loctite anything that is recommended by the manufacturer or comes that way already (pivots, rotors, etc), but I've started using a thin layer of grease on everything else. Since anti-seize is basically copper and graphite (or similar fillers) mixed in with a grease base, make your own decisions. Grease is just cheaper than anti-seize.

When I worked assembling frames we always used a 50 50 mixture of grease and blue locktite on all the bolts except sometimes right side pivot bolts which got 100[HTML_REMOVED]#37; locktite. This has always worked well for me on my own bikes as well. As far as waterproof grease I have used bike specific waterproof grease and waterproof boat trailer bearing grease and never noticed one working better or lasting longer than the other. The trailer stuff is like $5 for a massive tub that will grease 1000 bikes.

if you look at most good neversieze containers they say it can handle high temp over 250 degrees and at that temp petroluem based grease melts. So no neversieze is not just a mix of copper or graphite and grease
I use ti nicle base because it is the most stable and protects the best against electrolysis of disimilar metals
which occurs alot on the coast with aluminum and steal

Wohaa! So much conflicting info getting thrown back and forth - I'm more confused now than I started out :S

Stem and rotor bolts aside, for protecting general seals like BB, hubs, linkage, etc during winter riding I can use something like this: http://www.bonthronebikes.co.uk/242-412572 (Park Tools Polylube 1000 Grease)??

yes you can do that it will not hurt
plain and simple

sorry for the confusion:rolleyes:

dustin

if you look at most good neversieze containers they say it can handle high temp over 250 degrees and at that temp petroluem based grease melts. So no neversieze is not just a mix of copper or graphite and grease

Never-seez
Anti-seize

I'll note that I was generalizing, often it uses other compounds, but copper is very common. It's (almost always) a metallic compound, graphite, and grease.

But I'm curious as to how your bike manages to get up to 250 degrees.

I almost never use lock-tite (none at all right now).

Bel-Ray waterproof grease is pretty good. I use it in my loose-ball pig headset and it stays clean and lubed for a long time. better than other lubes I've used.

and a 454g tub of the stuff is only 7-8 bucks at the GA checkpoint yamaha dealer in pomo.

I also grease loos bearing hubs, stems, seatposts, shock and linkage bolts whenever they are gritty etc. and have never had a bolt come loose in the 4 or so years that I have done so.