I use Gorilla tape and don't go nuts cleaning up the residue for the next tape job. Doesn't seem to matter. It is thick and affects the bead, but that just seals up the tire better so I am okay with that. Mind you I have not had any issues with Stan's tape. The Gorilla tape is just cheaper and I always have it on hand.
Posted by: syncro
Posted by: ReductiMat
Posted by: syncro
There's this new invention called tubes that saves you having to deal with all this rim tape and sealant bs. I've had good luck with them so far.
I had 130+ days in the bike park last year and didn't blow anything. Combined with 2bliss, there is zero reason to deal with that...
Yeah I've heard the stories of you crushing it all day on Del Boca Vista, that's impressive.
ps - check your esarc meter, it may be off slightly.
Shady Acres to DBV is one of the best laps in the park.
Posted by: ReductiMat
Shady Acres to DBV is one of the best laps in the park.
Maybe I'll come up this summer for a few spins in the park with you one morning and you can show me the goods.
So I was unnecessarily hard on ole Stan.
I retaped with gorilla.
Still leaking out the spoke holes.
Took it all back apart.
No way tape was leaking.
The stupid valve stem that comes with the nukeproof inserts is garbage. Turns out they have a reputation for being super leaky. Air was leaking from the vale stem into the hollow part of the rim and out the spoke nipples.
So the Stan's was probably fine and any tape would have leaked.
So anyways now I ran out of Stan's so had to re tape with gorilla again, this time I ripped the tape narrower per the advice here, basically so it's only a little wider than a rim strip you'd use with tubes. Although I think the Stan's would have worked i think this narrow strip of gorilla tape is the ticket.
Posted by: syncro
There's this new invention called tubes that saves you having to deal with all this rim tape and sealant bs. I've had good luck with them so far.
Flat Shimada that you? (←Name of the guy on our weekly ride that was still on tubes, collectively waited 9000 hours for him. He's on tubeless now, but flogging continues).
Heavy duty carbon wheels + tubeless= never having to fuck with your wheels at all again. It's a miracle of baby Jesus.
Posted by: syncro
There's this new invention called tubes that saves you having to deal with all this rim tape and sealant bs. I've had good luck with them so far.
keep talkin...
I found Gorilla tape is good until I want to change my tires. Maybe I am just not careful with my tire levers but find that taking a tire off always effects the seal with gorilla tape. I found Stans was great until I had a wheel with a significant depression in the middle channel, cheap WTB rim, applied well but had trouble with the seal on the valve. My local shop recommended Muc-off's new tubeless tape. It was noticeably better than both.
Posted by: DaveM
Posted by: syncro
There's this new invention called tubes that saves you having to deal with all this rim tape and sealant bs. I've had good luck with them so far.
keep talkin...
lol - still have the same bike, shorts, shoes gloves and jersey. helmet is different tho. not sure about the underwear or socks.
Posted by: Kenny
The stupid valve stem that comes with the nukeproof inserts is garbage. Turns out they have a reputation for being super leaky. Air was leaking from the vale stem into the hollow part of the rim and out the spoke nipples.
I have these inserts sitting in a box in my garage at the moment - in the end did you re-use old stems or macgyver a way to get the nukeproof ones to hold air?
The nukeproof stem did seal the first time around, then I broke a spoke so on reassembly it then leaked. The conical rubber part is pretty small in diameter, I think it'd come down to the tolerances of your valve stem holes.
I broke down and bought a pair of cush core valve stems from Cove, 60 bucks so kinda painful but they're nicely made and it sealed.
All that said, I do like the inserts. 😁
Sorry to hijack but I was wondering if anyone here has any experience running road tires tubless. Have a pair of 42c conti contact speed tires I was going to run with some stans sealant if possible. Does anyone know what makes a tubless system to be at risk for blowing off the rim? The rims are old salsa semi rims with an rim width of 30mm. I've run these rims with countless MTB tires but something makes me nervous when the pressures are so much higher.
If they’re tubeless or TLR tyres it shouldn’t be an issue.
Posted by: Kenny
The nukeproof stem did seal the first time around, then I broke a spoke so on reassembly it then leaked. The conical rubber part is pretty small in diameter, I think it'd come down to the tolerances of your valve stem holes.
I broke down and bought a pair of cush core valve stems from Cove, 60 bucks so kinda painful but they're nicely made and it sealed.
All that said, I do like the inserts. 😁
Thanks for the explanation - did you need to reduce the diameter of them? I keep reading that they swell with sealant and then start to rattle around.
Posted by: Taz123
Thanks for the explanation - did you need to reduce the diameter of them? I keep reading that they swell with sealant and then start to rattle around.
I'm also running the Nukeproof ARDs (rear only), I haven't had an issue with the valves yet, although they might have required more compression when installing than the typical Stan's valves. In the past I've cut out small circles from old inner tubes and poked the valve thru the middle to beef up the rubber cone. Although basically every time I think the valve is leaking, it usually ends up being a tape failure.
As for rattling, I've run them for 3.5 months on 3 tires (WTB Judge 2.4, DHF 2.5WT, and a 2.35 Michelin Rock'r2, all on a 30i rim). On the initial install (Judge), they rattled for a ride or two and then settled in and were quiet for the rest of the tires life, they were very well seated when I took the tire off. On the DHF, they rattled around a lot and were very loud. I didn't have that combo on for very long as the DHF was rubbing on my frame so its possible they would have settled in given enough time. On the Michelin, they rattled a fair bit when first installed, and were loose enough that i could hear them sliding around in the tire when the bike was in the stand. But they've since seated and seem to be totally silent. Its possible that they'll compress further and start rattling again. If they hadn't quieted down (or if they get permanently loud) I'd definitely be cutting them down.
I'd be interested to hear if they're worth running in the front. I'm mostly running them to reduce the number of rear rims I go through, they have so far been very effective, no dents.
I'll also add my tubeless tape experience.
I've run stan's plastic tape when it comes pre-installed on rims and have found it to work pretty well. I think a slippery tape can help some tires slide into place better. I've also tried polyimide tape with mixed results, it comes in multiple thicknesses, and the thin stuff can get cut by the spoke holes.
That being said, every time I need to retape a rim, I go with gorilla tape. Its just so cheap and so fairly reliable. Usually I'll get 2 or 3 tire swaps before I need to retape, it does usually stick to the bead, but if I'm careful I can usually separate them without having to replace the tape.
One benefit that I haven't seen mentioned on here is the ability to patch gorilla tape. When I break a spoke I usually cut an X in the tape at the spoke hole, replace the spoke/nipple and then clean a 6 inch section of rim with isopropyl alcohol and stick a fresh length of gorilla tape on top, haven't had any issues so far.
As for prep/inital application, I've found that by far the easiest way to remove gorilla tape residue is by sticking and unsticking a fresh piece of gorilla tape to it, just sort of dab it on, and it pulls the residue right off, I work my way around the rim and end up with a big ball of gorilla adhesive. In the past I've tried goo-gone, which is very effective at removing the adhesive, but leaves an oily residue that's tricky to fully remove and which can mess up the new tape job.
I wipe the rim down with isopropyl alcohol, making sure to also get into the bead hooks/channels, and then rip the gorilla tape to the width I want, stick the tape in the middle of the rim only, and work my way around keeping tension on the tape the whole time. I then go back around with my thumb making sure the tape is stuck to center channel, then go back a third and forth time with a plastic tire lever to stick the tape into the bead hooks/channels on both sides of the rim, its worked pretty consistently for me, any issues I have are usually the result of skipping steps.
I usually prefer to go with wider tape, especially on offset rims (unless they're very wide), the spoke holes are very close to the bead hook/channel and its easy have the tire bead push the edge of the tape slightly and open up a spoke hole.
I've yet to try it, but I'm considering doing a layer of gorilla tape for strength and then a layer of polyimide on top to prevent the tire bead from sticking to the edges of the gorilla tape.
Forum jump:
