Got a straight pull RaceFace branded (Affect?) rear hub needs boosting. Their DR... https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/boostinator?variant=17761203653 ...looks like a stretched version of original end cap but they can't say for sure.
Anyone here Boostinatord a RF hub?
Freedom of contract. We sell them guns that kill them; they sell us drugs that kill us.
I didn't buy it, but I did look into it; Boostinater is a 6mm longer endcap on the non-drive side.
You need to re-dish the wheel when you Boostinater it. I have a Hope Pro 4 I needed spaced out and I could have got boostinator for or hope's option. Hope offers 3mm longer endcaps for either side.
I ended up with 4mm of hardware store spacers on the non-drive side and 2mm of hardware store spacers on the drive side because after waiting 2 weeks for the Hope option "DHL lost my order" from CRC and then the part went out of stock.
No re-dish required, and the derailleur still barely gets the chain into the biggest cog. I will admit my chainline is worse than if I had a boostinator or a proper 148mm hub.
Re -dishing (or less dishing) is a good idea, it makes for more even spoke tension both sides, and because the spacing is all on the brake side it moves the cassette outwards for a better chain line
But maybe your spokes are too short on one side or too old, new spokes are still cheaper than a new high end hub.
I got the hope version - 3mm on either side. I use a smaller chainring in non-boost format and the chainline is fine. I couldn't fit a 32 tooth chainring but a 28 ends up with a decent chainline. I'm running 11 speed so a 28t chainring on a 29er is bout right.
I would not use washers as these don't spread the load to the hub but onto the through axle. My understanding is that the through axle is only supposed to keep it all together but not bear weight. When you throw washers in there there is no weight bearing connection between the frame and hub.
I used a thing a lot like that DR kit to make a DT Swiss 240 142mm hub into boost. Knowing how it fit, I cant imagine it would be a great fit with any other kind of hub. I mean, unless you have dimensions that look promising ... or the ability to modify
Posted by: RAHrider
I would not use washers as these don't spread the load to the hub but onto the through axle. My understanding is that the through axle is only supposed to keep it all together but not bear weight. When you throw washers in there there is no weight bearing connection between the frame and hub.
I'm not sure I buy this at all. The hub's axle and bearings should be the main load bearing pieces regardless of whether it's preloaded by a hub end cap or hub end cap plus spacer(s)
Posted by: UFO
Posted by: RAHrider
I would not use washers as these don't spread the load to the hub but onto the through axle. My understanding is that the through axle is only supposed to keep it all together but not bear weight. When you throw washers in there there is no weight bearing connection between the frame and hub.
I'm not sure I buy this at all. The hub's axle and bearings should be the main load bearing pieces regardless of whether it's preloaded by a hub end cap or hub end cap plus spacer(s)
That's a good point. There was a whole article on the topic here that I read a while ago. at the same time though, how would old QR hubs work if the force was supposed to go through the bearings to the axle? I think I stand by my comment that the axle is not supposed to weight bear vertical loads.
I do most of my armchair engineering via Wikipedia and don't waste time arguing
I have "boosted" 3 old fashioned wheelsets this year as we have had an influx of fancy new frames into my house hold.
Hope Pro 2 Evo (rear only) using the Hope Kit. Neatest solution but didn't play well with 11speed shimano without moving the B link spacer to move the mech inboard by 5mm or so.
DT Swiss E1900 (DT Swiss 370 hubs) I used these to convert the centrelock hubs. Worked fine with shimano 10 speed.
Novatech something or other hubs, I used generic "boost" spacers in "find easily in grass" bright blue. Also worked fine with 10 speed.
I have heard of people supergluing boost spacers to hub end caps and they aren't snapping off which suggests the loads are going through the axle and into the bearings rather than through the endcaps.
I've also boostinated a few times with similar experience. Definitely get a kit that requires re-dishing, if one is available. Your shifting won't be perfect on the kits that don't allow/require re-dishing, especially on 12 speed, which is really sensitive to position and b-screw setup. This is because it pushes the cogs inward a few MM vs spec.
On my Hope Pro 2 evos that I'm currently running, I originally used the Hope kit. It was never quite right, so I tossed that kit in the bin after I went 12 speed SRAM and got the better Wolf Tooth, re-dished, life is good with perfect shifting. Been flogging these hubs for years, there's no downside to boosting old hubs when done right.
Another wheelset, Hadleys with DH rims, heavy rubber + inserts, the only option is the Hadley kit that doesn't require dishing. Shifting is meh, but since it's a shuttle/park set, that's ok since I just optimize it for the smaller half of the cogset.
Posted by: JVP
Your shifting won't be perfect on the kits that don't allow/require re-dishing, especially on 12 speed, which is really sensitive to position and b-screw setup. This is because it pushes the cogs inward a few MM vs spec.
The workaround for this is to space your crank or chainring inboard 3mm to compensate (if your frame had the clearance to accommodate), the system doesn't know the difference and you preserve the chainline as designed
Posted by: UFO
Posted by: JVP
Your shifting won't be perfect on the kits that don't allow/require re-dishing, especially on 12 speed, which is really sensitive to position and b-screw setup. This is because it pushes the cogs inward a few MM vs spec.
The workaround for this is to space your crank or chainring inboard 3mm to compensate (if your frame had the clearance to accommodate), the system doesn't know the difference and you preserve the chainline as designed
That sort of works but then you run into the mech being right at the limit of it limit screws. On the 11 speed set up I did, with the limit screw all the way out i couldn't get the mech far enough inboard to shift to the biggest cog on the cassette without moving that spacer. Not all shimano mechs have this (I know one of my 10 speed ones does not) and I have no idea about SRAM.
Posted by: DanLees1978
The workaround for this is to space your crank or chainring inboard 3mm to compensate (if your frame had the clearance to accommodate), the system doesn't know the difference and you preserve the chainline as designed
That sort of works but then you run into the mech being right at the limit of it limit screws. On the 11 speed set up I did, with the limit screw all the way out i couldn't get the mech far enough inboard to shift to the biggest cog on the cassette without moving that spacer. Not all shimano mechs have this (I know one of my 10 speed ones does not) and I have no idea about SRAM.
I ran a non-boost ring (30t, so my bike allowed it), so it wasn't a chainline issue. It's a derailleur geometry issue, it just didn't work quite as well since the der was further outboard from the cogs by a few mm vs spec. It did work, just with a slight degradation in shifting. Enough that I was willing to spend the $45 or so to get a better boostinator kit. It's not a deal killer though, I had 2 happy years before I 'updgraded'.
SRAM doesn't have any spacers in the b-bolt area that can be removed to set it further inboard.
So, I swapped over the cranks/bb from my non-boost frame to the boost spaced WideAngle.
Means chainline will simply intersect cogset on boosted rear one or two cogs further inboard? Everthing works except maybe noisier on smaller cogs?
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