Get rid of that monstrous Bike and look into something more freeride oriented if your serious about it.
Summer setup... I'm stumped.
17.5 " stiffee. keep the pyslo and boxxer, try them both on the stiffee, then decide if you want a 5 inch fork or like the feel of a bigger fork. Then buy a new fork or keep the boxxer.
my 2 cents
Originally posted by pete
**17.5 " stiffee. keep the pyslo and boxxer, try them both on the stiffee, then decide if you want a 5 inch fork or like the feel of a bigger fork. Then buy a new fork or keep the boxxer.my 2 cents **
Sounds like a good plan… but explain to me why the Stiffee would be better than a 17 inch Scirocco. I explained how similar they are… what sets one apart from the other?
ATN,
You are cruntching too many numbers.
Besides price, the feel of the bike is so much more important than 1/4 length in top tube or half a degree in head angles.
Take each bike for a test spin, a Cove Stiffee a Norco Shore HT (Torrent, Rampage, Sasquatch, Manik) and a Banshee.
Each bike has a feel to it in the assembly. IE the rear end on a Norco is slightly stiffer in the stays than a Cove Stiffee. The Banshee has a similar feel in the rear to the Norco, but is a very different ride overall.
Ride the bikes at shops and then cruntch the numbers.
PS- lose the red tire
Woof Woof
JYD, Ive spent 2 months on a Norco Shore HT and 5 on the Banshee Scirocco. So it's not like I dont have experience on these things. Having a slightly flexier rear end on the Stiffee (good name I guess) would be welcomed. I should drag myself out to the Cove someday then.
PS- performance before color. that tire was bought before the kenda blue grooves came out.
Here's my 03 17" Stiffee. It was just thrown together about an hour before the pic was taken, so a few components were changed after and the stem was lowered.
Standover is an issue for me, and it wasn't an issue with the 17" Stiffee. I has a 70mm stem and the cockpit was fine.
As for stiffness, the bike is jaringly stiff.
If you go to the Cove Bike shop down in the Cove, they have a Stiffee they use for rentals. You could take it for a spin around the Cove (there's plenty of stuff to play on - and Myrtle is about 4 blocks away), and judge for yourself how the frame feels. The 5" Jr DJ1 and 5" Jr T that I had on the bike were perfect.
It is easy to dodge our responsibilities, but we cannot dodge the consequences of dodging our responsibilities.
- Josiah Stamp
Every time I see an adult on a bicycle, I no longer despair for the future of the human race.
- H.G. Wells
actually this would be a good bike for you. i'm thinking of one for next year instead of an all-out XC rig. i like the NRS-1 too but might not be quite burly enough.
Blaine, that's a $2500-$3000 complete bike. I want it lots, but the way the cards go it would be a stretch even if I sold everything I had. Frame, 2 forks, all components.
i know, i'm just dreaming. lol. yea its tough trying to get the right ride for different styles when your budget is low. trust me, i know.
Originally posted by Dante Alighieri
i know, i'm just dreaming. lol. yea its tough trying to get the right ride for different styles when your budget is low. trust me, i know.
When I think about it I know that I dont need an XC bike until the week before the series begins (so like beginning of April) and that the bike should be tuned for Burke. It looks like I am going to end up with a Norco, Banshee or Cove frame then a decent single crown fork.
The only thing wrong with that Giant is that the seat post can hit the rebound adjustment knob on the shock. If the seat tube was back 1/4", it would be fine. Someone goofed on the design. Too bad, because it's a nice bike and it's also pretty light.
It is easy to dodge our responsibilities, but we cannot dodge the consequences of dodging our responsibilities.
- Josiah Stamp
Every time I see an adult on a bicycle, I no longer despair for the future of the human race.
- H.G. Wells
no they fixed that problem on this years model.
Originally posted by Junk Yard Dog
**ATN,You are crunching too many numbers.
Besides price, the feel of the bike is so much more important than 1/4 length in top tube or half a degree in head angles.
**
exactly. If you pick up a frame,and the top tube is an inch shorter…you'll adapt to it--it's not the end of the world.you'll actually probably find that a shorter,maybe more neutral TT length of something between 22-23 would work best,as it would actuall allow you to get over the front end a bit more,making technical riding a bit different.
Originally posted by trail worker
exactly. If you pick up a frame,and the top tube is an inch shorter…you'll adapt to it--it's not the end of the world.you'll actually probably find that a shorter,maybe more neutral TT length of something between 22-23 would work best,as it would actuall allow you to get over the front end a bit more,making technical riding a bit different.
Yes. I am definately going to try a shorter top tube.
This thread is now hereby suspended until I sell stuff and go and test ride stuff.
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