Stan's flow rims - anyone ride them?

Any good?

Have them on both my bikes.  Mk1 on the old 26er and Mk3 on the new ride. Easy to build up, 29mm width for the Mk3 I believe.

I bought one built up from Cove been invisible in a good way.

He will ya or He will no?

got a fresh pair of MK3's and they look good.

Rode a pair of MK1 flows on my old hardtail, and the rear kept pretty darn true. Some of the cheaper Stans rims have known failure points, and I have (and my roomate, identical spot) had failures on others at the spoke hole (Arch 29), where small cracks developed parallel to the centre line. Wish I snapped a photo. I have heard this can be an issue on the MK1 flows, so I have kept an eye on it.  Anyone know if the MK3 has the same failure points?

Damn auto correct. It was supposed to be:

Hell ya

Hell no

In any case, anyone ride the race face arc 27? I found two wheelsets and those are the two rims

I'm 220lbs pre-gear. my MK3s are still doing just fine. I don't blast through chunder all that often though.

Running Flow MK3 on my DH bike, solid and light.

Been running Arch MK3 on my trail bike for over a year, also solid and light. Before that I ran Arch EX for almost 3 seasons, again, no issues if you keep the tensioned.

My DH bike is still running on a set of wheels built with Flow EX rims and DT Competition spokes. 

The wheels has seen heavy use over the last four years — at least 250 days in the Whistler bike park — and they are still holding up well. The rear has a two small dings, but still runs true and seals up tubeless without any issues. 

I'm a pretty light rider (63 kg) but I do enjoy smashy-smashy lines.

what is the nsmb hive mind thoughts on hubs?
Especially at different price points. Ideally I'd have the moolah for Hope/King/p321/Onyx etc but I'm interested in hearing the full min/max as tesed on the shore and whistler

I've had many wheels built around Hope, DT, and Chris King hubs on my mountain bikes.

My park bike (above) has Flow EX rims laced to Hope Pro 2 EVO hubs. After four years and a couple of hundred of days in the park, the bearings are still acceptably smooth with zero maintenance (!!!). I wash my bikes after every outing, though I avoid directing high pressure water near the bearings. I've never needed to replace any Hope bearings, but they are inexpensive, as are the necessary tools. I believe the Hope bearing drifts are about CA$20 for the set.

Last year, I got a Chromag Primer built with Hope Pro 4 hubs, and I am hoping for the same no-nonsense, long-term reliability.

I have King hubs on my older trail bike (non-boost, ISO shells) and my road bike (non-disc, R45). Both have been reliable and maintenance-free as well, but I was able to buy all of that stuff at cost while employed at a bike shop. The King hub service tools are proprietary and very expensive. That being said, the finish and colour palette on King hubs are unmatched. The colours are rich, deep, and distinctive. Even when covered in a layer of dirt, my orange ("Mango") King hubs out-shine the brand-new orange Hope hubs on my Chromag. And, of course, there's the sound.

All that being said, I don't think I could stomach the price premium for King hubs at retail.

I believe Hope offers the best all-around value for a hub that is available in different anodized colours. 

If black is all you're after, I'd also consider DT 350s, especially with the high-engagement star ratchet upgrade.

I have King's, hope pro-4 and a set of spank 345 trail wheels. In the past I have destroyed many lesser hubs (mostly shimano). My King hubs are going on 10 years and still run like new. The engagement is worth every dollar. I have the spank wheels on my new bike and every time I go to do some technical pedal kick type thing I realize how shit the engagement is compared to my king hubs. They seem to be pretty durable though. The hopes are on my single speed and are running great. I will always say spring for the king hubs as they will last forever and you can still buy parts for hubs made 20 years ago and amazingly, if you owned 20 year old king hubs; 1) you would probably still not need spare parts and 2) if you did, you would still actually want to buy them because the hubs are still that good 20 years later. Name one other bike part/manufacturer that has a 20 year old part you would still use happily. I have a 20 year old king headset in my single speed - original bearings. It went from my Turner XCE to my karate monkey, to my next karate monkey to the one I am on now.

Go king.