I see no way to adjust the stroke on my M615 (SLX) brakes. Looks like the XT and XTRs have a screw specifically for this, do the M615s have any secret/inelegant way to adjust stroke?
The stroke has increased on my rear brake, presumably due to pad wear - and if this will be routine, I might look into replacing with XT. Or might a bleed help (I can't see how a bleed would matter, they're not at all spongy feeling).
My XT brakes do that when the pads are worn. The pad contact adjust on them does not do a whole lot though and. I keep mine at the least amount of stroke anyway. It does work but not as much adjustment as other brakes.
Debate? Bikes are made for riding not pushing.
Your best best is to reset the pistons in the caliper so they sit the same distance as when the pads were new.
Best way to do that is to install the bleed cup on the lever with some mineral oil in it, work out a couple of bubbles in the lever, remove the rear wheel and squeeze the brake lever to the pads push a bit further out. I usually use 3-4 business cards as spacers for the best amount of free stoke.
Button everything back up. Should be good to go.
My XT brakes do that when the pads are worn. The pad contact adjust on them does not do a whole lot though and. I keep mine at the least amount of stroke anyway. It does work but not as much adjustment as other brakes.
Thanks - sounds like not worth the $ to swap them out then.
Your best best is to reset the pistons in the caliper so they sit the same distance as when the pads were new.
Best way to do that is to install the bleed cup on the lever with some mineral oil in it, work out a couple of bubbles in the lever, remove the rear wheel and squeeze the brake lever to the pads push a bit further out. I usually use 3-4 business cards as spacers for the best amount of free stoke.
Button everything back up. Should be good to go.
Thank you! Will give that a shot.
dremel a flat bladed screwdriver so it looks like a two pronged fork and screw out the bolt.
then put your own bolt in.
http://www.huckingkitty.com/node/9
dremel a flat bladed screwdriver so it looks like a two pronged fork and screw out the bolt.
then put your own bolt in.
http://www.huckingkitty.com/node/9
Well that is interesting, i don't remember seeing a blanking bolt but I will def check it out, thanks!
dremel a flat bladed screwdriver so it looks like a two pronged fork and screw out the bolt.
then put your own bolt in.
http://www.huckingkitty.com/node/9
Or just use some circlip pliers and skip the dremel.
Did this to my zees a few years ago. Not really worth the effort.
Originally posted by Purecanadianhoney
I don't see how hard it would be to scrape out the head of your cock once in a while.
Or just use some circlip pliers and skip the dremel.
Did this to my zees a few years ago. Not really worth the effort.
agree.
Posted by: kperras
Your best best is to reset the pistons in the caliper so they sit the same distance as when the pads were new.
Best way to do that is to install the bleed cup on the lever with some mineral oil in it, work out a couple of bubbles in the lever, remove the rear wheel and squeeze the brake lever to the pads push a bit further out. I usually use 3-4 business cards as spacers for the best amount of free stoke.
Button everything back up. Should be good to go.
finally got around to it after paying the ridiculous price for a shimano bleed kit. it did the trick - thanks.
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