Shade tree mechanics impart their wisdom.

Posted by: BC_Nuggets

The tire was the Conti DH Kryptotal (which is a known difficult, but not impossible, tire to install) onto Chromag Phase30.  I mean I got it eventually but after sweating, swearing and killing my admittedly weak hands and wrists for over an hour I gave in and used a screwdriver to pry the last bit of tire onto the rim.  Put a scratch on the rim too. 

https://fortnine.ca/en/pedro-s-downhill-tire-lever-6400025?utm_id=70393578393&utm_campaign=1768300489&utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid&utm_content=342549430054&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3dSKjdDNiAMVxc7CBB007jVxEAQYCCABEgIFvvD_BwE

This looks like a good product that would work for me but it's still metal like a screw driver...at least it's rounded though and less chance of damaging the tape.

I just remounted a Conti DH Kryptotal last night, it was actually harder to get off than on; even dropped down into the channel, it was tight all around. A variety of tire levers, including metal core ones, was needed. The trick that made it easier to get on was to strap the tire so I'm only working to get one side in, and the other side doesn't keep escaping. Even plastic rounded levers will damage the tape. 

It does give me pause about committing to this tire. If I damaged it on the trail such that I needed to put in a tube, I'd never be able to get it off.

While breaking plastic tire levers  atempting to set up some road tires tubeless ^^ I came to the same conclusian

Kryptotal ENDURO casing is somewhat easier to remove and install.  Conti NEEEDS to make that casing available with the SUPER SOFT compound.  They would sell well IMO.

The DH does have an extra damped feeling though that I enjoyed on the first ride with it.  Everything just seemed more in control...but a bit less playful at the same time.  Probably should back off on the rebound of the fork a bit to compensate.

Handiest tire changing tip I've come across in quite awhile came from installing TuBliss on my moto wheels : Make sure to insert the last tire lever first when beginning the process (underscoring the fact that three (3) is the minimum number of tire levers to be considered adequate). That way when you work the bead around to the last stretch where it is tightest against the rim, the lever is already in place to pop the bead over. 

Also, the Motion Pro Bead Buddy, or CushCore BeadBro is another key element to being able to work from a fixed starting back around to it as your end point, rather than endlessly chasing the tire around the rim. 

Armor-All is also a great alternative to dish soap as a tire lubricant - I found it doesn't get quite as frustratingly slippery while still helping everything to move into place.

I still have nightmares about trying to mount a Michelin Mud3 on a Sun RhynoLite with a big DH tube about 20 years ago. 

This has been the most difficult combination I have ever encountered.

Posted by: BC_Nuggets

Any recommendations for installing tight DH casing tires?  I recently had to use a screwdriver to get the last bit onto the rim (my park tool levers were too fat to cram into the tight space.  I see there's some tools available for cushcore installation but I'm not installing inserts.  However I wonder if they'd help with DH tires.  Ideally something like a screwdriver but with rubber or plastic layer over the metal part so I don't damage the rim or the tubeless tape.

Use motorcycle tire levers / tools. They are larger than bicycle tire levers.

Anyone else seen issues with Transmission derailleurs not micro adjusting outboard far enough to stop rubbing? I’ve a new set up here, firmware updated (apparently it was a common enough issue there was a firmware update to address it earlier on).

I’m getting the usual ‘we’ve not seen that before BS’. Chainline, dropout tolerances all good, hub is a Chris King, so I’m tending towards thinking it’s a sram issue…

If your bike has a problem, start with the free stuff. Visual inspection, cleaning and lubricating. Take things apart before you automatically buy new parts. Most shifting issues are likely to be solved with new cable and housing. For electric stuff, you’re on your own. Avoid cheap cable and housing. Mixing brands of components can be tricky. Shimano shift cable is 1.2mm whereas Jagwire is 1.1. If the cable routing has many bends, a Shimano cable may have more friction in a Jagwire housing.

@BC_Nuggets

Those Cushcore levers are the strongest non metal levers I ever tried. I find them to be a big help with tight beads. I have motorcycle levers but the tips are very thick and I’d fear rim damage

I’ve a shop owner-mechanic pal who says he never fails to mount a tyre without use of levers. He gave 2 tips. Pull the tyre on towards you using all your 8 fingers and palms- don’t use your thumbs to lever (that’s the route to arthritis) and - repeatedly ensure the bead is in the rim well for as much of the radius as possible.

Admittedly he told me that before Cushcore came along. Those Cushcore levers (bead pushers) are great for getting the bead right into the well under the Cushcore. I realise that’s not what you’re doing.