I've been a long time fan of Magura brakes, having run several pairs of Louise and Louise FR brakes over the last 8+ years.
I got a pair of MT6 about 18 months ago and have been plagued air or tiny leaks in the system since. They were NOT part of recall batch affected by freezing temps but were replaced by Orange anyway.
Since then, they been bled more times than any other brake I've used (including some terrible Hope Minis).
Anyway, they were bled about six weeks ago and about three rides later the lever was back to the bars.
I usually store my bike as I described but this time I flipped it so its hanging by it's back wheel instead. And lo, no more pulling the lever back to the bar….
So, I'm curious to know if the problem affecting MT6s have been sorted with the 5's or 7's….
1) The one thing I know for certain is that with almost every fork you should go back to hanging your bike from the front wheel. The inconvenience of a brake bleed is not the frustration/cost of damaged stanchions/bushings.
2) The disclaimers: A) I am not, and certainly do not pretend to be a bike mechanic. B) I do not work for/with Magura in any capacity, C) I can only tell you what has worked for me and do not in any way claim that it is recommended by Magura or will work for you, D) I do not know who previously bled your brakes and this is not meant to question their knowledge or technic, and E) actually, I think I covered it all…
3) On the first few sets of Magura brakes I owned (back in the day) getting all the air out of the caliper with a basic (push from the bottom) bleed was inconsistent. I hypothesize (F: I'm not an engineer) that it has something to do with removing the bleed fitting, but who knows, and it doesn't matter because with my three step process it has never been a problem again:
Step 1: Bleed brake as normal (syringe at caliper, bleed hose - and now Shimano-esque tub/open syringe - at master cylinder.
Step 2: Remove hose/tub from Master and replace fitting. Remove syringe from caliper and replace fitting. Cycle brake a few times.
Step 3: Remove fitting from master and insert tub/hose (with a bit of fluid). Remove rear wheel. Assuming fresh-ish pads (you don't the pistons to pop out -- only a risk with worn out pads) cycle the brake until the pads are almost touching. Using a clean pad spreading tool push the pistons back in. Replace the wheel. Cycle the brake a few times. Remove the hose/tub and replace the fitting.
When you spread the pads you will likely see a bunch more air in the hose/tub.
It sounds like a lot of extra work? But it really isn't and it has worked every time for me.
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