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rear hub adaptor/conversion 142 to 148

June 5, 2019, 9:55 p.m.
Posts: 553
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017

my understanding of wheel building, hub spacing, dish, etc. is modest at best so i'm seeking insight on the webs. 

i've got a Hadley 142 built up on a nice old carbon rim and a new 'boost' frame. Hadley is making a new axle to retrofit to this hub, it will come out soon and will be expensive and require a new bearing as well (all to accommodate micro spline).  i figure this is the best approach and strongest, but i've heard that the simple spacer kits (Problem Solvers makes one, many options on ebay) has others. they all seem to require some kind of redish. i barely understand the dish i currently have and if it's good, bad, weakens, strengthens, etc. it's all bad is my general understanding, no dish is best. 

anyhow, are the spacer kits kinda ghetto? are they going to lead to a broken frame axle? are there different kinds, some requiring only 1 spacer, others 2 and some requiring redish, some not? it's all baffling to me.

June 6, 2019, 12:16 a.m.
Posts: 1435
Joined: May 23, 2006

So as you see you now gots a multi part hub so if big air hard landings...umm..I dunno', ymmv.

But after install you have to re-dish to centre rim between drop outs so - pushing hub to the drive side you end up with less dish so a more even bracing angle side to side.


 Last edited by: tungsten on June 6, 2019, 12:17 a.m., edited 1 time in total.
June 6, 2019, 9:56 a.m.
Posts: 2240
Joined: Sept. 5, 2012

I used a WolfTooth product , worked okay. now using a proper boost hub. I have it kicking around as a back up , its a Hope Pro2 with a 29"rim. The wheel will need to be dished roughly the same as the rotor spacer.

June 6, 2019, 2:37 p.m.
Posts: 1071
Joined: Nov. 21, 2002

Spacer kits with a 3mm spacer on either side will not require a re-dish, and probably won't require the rotor to be spaced out either as you can space the IS caliper adapter or move the post mount caliper over a few mm usually.

June 6, 2019, 8:20 p.m.
Posts: 156
Joined: March 6, 2017

Posted by: DemonMike

I used a WolfTooth product , worked okay. now using a proper boost hub. I have it kicking around as a back up , its a Hope Pro2 with a 29"rim. The wheel will need to be dished roughly the same as the rotor spacer.

For shame! You're a machinist and you bought an adapter? Haha I made one because I'm a cheap sob.

June 7, 2019, 12:03 a.m.
Posts: 234
Joined: May 11, 2018

I have an MRP boost kit for my front hub. 5 mm on each side and a 5mm spacer for the rotor. It works fine. Don't notice the difference. If anything, this wheel is stiffer as I replaced an aluminum with carbon.

June 7, 2019, 7:58 a.m.
Posts: 553
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017

front was much easier. Hope makes replacement torque caps that adapt from 100 to 110 and use the torque interface on the Lyrik fork. i basically forget the front wheel was 'non boost'.  i had to order a problem solvers rear adaptor from Jenson, the LBS can't get it from QBP as it's not distributed here.  having just travelled back from the US, man, Canada is a bicycle backwater in comparison.

June 7, 2019, 6:22 p.m.
Posts: 628
Joined: March 25, 2011

I have had Boostinator (Wolftooth I think) for a couple years on my I9 on carbon hoops. No perceptive lack of stiffness (stiff AF wheels actually). Only issue is the rear cap has no sealing (just a close fit) like the OEM caps, so I killed a lot of non drive side bearings. I've moved on to DT 350s on another set, but honestly if you don't want to fork over crazy cake for new hubs...go for it. It isn't ghetto


 Last edited by: awesterner on June 7, 2019, 6:23 p.m., edited 1 time in total.
June 7, 2019, 9:48 p.m.
Posts: 1071
Joined: Nov. 21, 2002

I ordered and used these 3mm x2 spacers with success at $8 https://m.pinkbike.com/buysell/1988363/

My chainline was fine as I was using a Specialized 142+ wheel that pushes the cassette 2mm to chainstay anyways, so the 3mm spacer restored my chainline almost back to stock. It was a hassle keeping track of 2 extra thin spacers when re/re the rear wheel though. But functionally fine

June 8, 2019, 5:11 a.m.
Posts: 2240
Joined: Sept. 5, 2012

Posted by: T-mack

Posted by: DemonMike

I used a WolfTooth product , worked okay. now using a proper boost hub. I have it kicking around as a back up , its a Hope Pro2 with a 29"rim. The wheel will need to be dished roughly the same as the rotor spacer.

For shame! You're a machinist and you bought an adapter? Haha I made one because I'm a cheap sob.

LOL it was in stock when I was at the shop that day.

June 11, 2019, 12:20 p.m.
Posts: 32
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017

I've used boostinators with pretty good success.   I don't really understand the fear of re-dishing the wheel, it's pretty easy and you could do it in your boost frame.  Assuming the wheel is nicely true and has even tension, just keep all adjustments consistent.  Wolftooth has some basic instructions:  https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/boostinator-installation

If you're tightening up a spoke make sure you spin the nipple half a turn past where you want to go, then spin it back.   This means that if the spoke winds up it'll loosen as 

The boostinator kits that require re-dishing will generally make the wheel stronger.  More even spoke tension = stronger wheel.

June 23, 2019, 3:29 a.m.
Posts: 16
Joined: May 1, 2018

I used spacers that allow you to use 3mm each side (so you preserve the geo and don't need to re-dish, but do need to adjust limits), and a spacer under rotor.

It worked, but it was a massive PITA. Getting spacers in every time, then getting axle through, and not forgetting or losing them when wheel was out was a nightmare. I'd only use one again on a bike that I never expected to have the wheel out of, like a commuter.

(edit: this is why the Boostinator option is great, IF you have a compatible hub)


 Last edited by: Heinous on June 23, 2019, 3:29 a.m., edited 1 time in total.

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