PSA, if you're installing a Race Face crank with a RF136 spindle, remember to fit one 1mm spindle spacer on each side of the crank. This is in addition to any spacers that may be required for your bottom bracket installation. If you are using a RF134 spindle, no spacer is required. RF136 is recommended for bikes with 148mm hub spacing.
Yours,
A frustrated home mechanic who has installed and removed his BB & crank 3 times over the past two days.
"I know that heroes ride bicycles" - Joe Biden
Posted by: rnayel
PSA, if you're installing a Race Face crank with a RF136 spindle, remember to fit one 1mm spindle spacer on each side of the crank. This is in addition to any spacers that may be required for your bottom bracket installation. If you are using a RF134 spindle, no spacer is required. RF136 is recommended for bikes with 148mm hub spacing.
Yours,
A frustrated home mechanic who has installed and removed his BB & crank 3 times over the past two days.
Sounds like this is specific to your BB/Frame/Crank setup. I have installed several pairs of cinch cranks with no need for extra spacers. They do make specific spacer kits for several different applications.
Posted by: shoreboy
Posted by: rnayel
PSA, if you're installing a Race Face crank with a RF136 spindle, remember to fit one 1mm spindle spacer on each side of the crank. This is in addition to any spacers that may be required for your bottom bracket installation. If you are using a RF134 spindle, no spacer is required. RF136 is recommended for bikes with 148mm hub spacing.
Yours,
A frustrated home mechanic who has installed and removed his BB & crank 3 times over the past two days.
Sounds like this is specific to your BB/Frame/Crank setup. I have installed several pairs of cinch cranks with no need for extra spacers. They do make specific spacer kits for several different applications.
Me too, I'd never used any spacers, but I think that I've always installed RF134 spindled cranks. Their site has guides in the product page, which was hugely useful, and that I should have checked earlier.
Q-Factor, BBs and Chainlines - the guide that outlines spacers
Somewhat related, has anybody looked at the installation instructions for the Cinch BB threaded cups? For years the torque is listed as ~40nm and 40 *in/lbs. I emailed them long ago (but clearly got lost in the black hole of customer emails;) mentioned the discrepancy. Either it’s 40nm, 40in/lbs, 40 ft/lbs, or ~340in/lbs. I’d pick 3 out of that list as correct.
8-)
Posted by: awesterner
Somewhat related, has anybody looked at the installation instructions for the Cinch BB threaded cups? For years the torque is listed as ~40nm and 40 *in/lbs. I emailed them long ago (but clearly got lost in the black hole of customer emails;) mentioned the discrepancy. Either it’s 40nm, 40in/lbs, 40 ft/lbs, or ~340in/lbs. I’d pick 3 out of that list as correct.
8-)
I’ve been using the Cane Creek hellbender 70 bottom brackets on all my bikes since early 2020 when they released the 70 line. I’ve been very impressed. Their torque settings are accurate.
Only downside is that the drive side reverse threads so using a torque wrench becomes useless.
Yes, excellent! Clearly the typo has been changed for some time. The BB I picked up in the winter had the typo, so probably fairly old new stock :)
I could use some help on a similar issue. I have a S-Works Epic 2022 which has BSA 73 with a Race Face Next SL RF136, the chainring (Garbaruk Direct Mount) has an offset of 1.5mm. When I installed it, im afraid i used the wrong amount/sizes of spacers. Right now i have 2.5mm spacers on both sides and the chainline is somewhere around 49mm, which should be 52mm. My question to you is how many spacers and what sizes I need to install to achieve a 52mm chainline. When using the table, without accounting for the chainring offset, I think 1mm spacers on both sides and 1 extra 2,5 mm spacer on the driveside is right. Is this correct? And do i need to account for the offset of the chainring? In that case I would need 2 1mm spacers on the drive side and 1 1mm on the non drive side right?
There are a few parameters:
If your setup features the following
- cranks aren't hitting the chainstays
- chainring isn't sawing the chainstay
- your tire doesn't rub the chain
- you don't have an excessively wide chainline that makes a large angle between the chain and lowest gear
- suitable preload on the BB
... then it's all good. Shorter way to say it, there's more than one chainline that can work. I set mine up as narrow as possible (numerically low measurement of chainline, but where no two things try to occupy the same space at the same time). Like, I shoot for straight chainline in the third gear or so. ~5mm clearance should be enough to prevent incidental contact if things are looking to maybe be too close.
Posted by: mrbrett
There are a few parameters:
If your setup features the following
- cranks aren't hitting the chainstays
- chainring isn't sawing the chainstay
- your tire doesn't rub the chain
- you don't have an excessively wide chainline that makes a large angle between the chain and lowest gear
- suitable preload on the BB
... then it's all good. Shorter way to say it, there's more than one chainline that can work. I set mine up as narrow as possible (numerically low measurement of chainline, but where no two things try to occupy the same space at the same time). Like, I shoot for straight chainline in the third gear or so. ~5mm clearance should be enough to prevent incidental contact if things are looking to maybe be too close.
^^^
That is the best answer to the chainline question that I've ever seen......it's also how I set mine up as well.
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