pink bike fail

My Marin has Biopace and it really does suck (not the bike, the rings)

I've never ridden them but they make a lot of sense for MTB'ing. I've got the Rotor QX1 ring
on order.

Ive been using a "Doval" brand offset oval ring setup "20T/36T" for about a year now. I definitely noticed that my knees which have some issues are never as sore as they used to get. Also can climb longer/faster than i used to.

I'm pretty sure you feel the difference because you switched from a W/N to a N/W! The N/W are so much more efficient. ;)

Holy Shit! You are right.

I had the Rotor rings on my road bike and mountain bike. They don't shift well though. Well enough on the road bike but I had issues with the off road set. Do they make a difference? I think low RPM grinding they do. There are a number of top pro road riders that use them. I think Wiggins used them the year he won the Tour. Froome too. And all the current asymmetric rings work the opposite to bio pace.

Here's my oval Ridea 32t N/W chainring setup on my Xprezo. So roughly equivalent to a 30t on the weak part of the pedal stroke and 34t on the power stroke. I was previously running a Hope 30T N/W ring. My climbing has improved with the new setup… order of magnitude improvement, no, but an improvement nonetheless. Folks used to scoff at dropper seatposts, 1x drivetrains, etc, etc. I like to take the approach of try it for myself and make a judgement based on facts.

P.S. Notice the granny ring on my setup… I put that on after a few 2+ hrs climbs proved a bit too much with the 1x. No front derailleur so it has to be dropped manually. I actually have yet to use it since I installed it but its there.

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Colin, you need to extend your cassette with a 40 or 42 tooth conversion cog… its relatively cheap. Toss the 22.

I only use my 40t as a bailout and rarely on most of my rides so not concerned about wear. And as for the granny I find I am more efficient pushing a larger (30/32) chainring than a 22t granny. Matter-of-fact I just ordered an elliptical 32t N/W ring for shits and giggles.

P.S. Notice the granny ring on my setup… I put that on after a few 2+ hrs climbs proved a bit too much with the 1x. No front derailleur so it has to be dropped manually. I actually have yet to use it since I installed it but its there.

It's like watching a Born-Again-Quit-The-Sauce-Christian have their first sip of Gin-[HTML_REMOVED]-Tonic after a Looooooong day…

Next thing we know you'll be extolling the virtues of straighter chainlines, more even drivetrain wear, and faster large-ratio changes of a front derailleur.

A triple can only be a few weeks away.

D

It's like watching a Born-Again-Quit-The-Sauce-Christian have their first sip of Gin-[HTML_REMOVED]-Tonic after a Looooooong day…

Next thing we know you'll be extolling the virtues of straighter chainlines, more even drivetrain wear, and faster large-ratio changes of a front derailleur.

A triple can only be a few weeks away.

D

Drew, yep you caught me…. your ability to remember facts is uncanny. However, did you also read the part about I haven't actually used it yet? I was installing new cranks and had the extra granny hanging about. If I use it 2x per season then I am OK with the mod. Surely, your cynicism takes a day off occasionally.

Drew, yep you caught me…. your ability to remember facts is uncanny. However, did you also read the part about I haven't actually used it yet? I was installing new cranks and had the extra granny hanging about. If I use it 2x per season then I am OK with the mod. Surely, your cynicism takes a day off occasionally.

Seriously just teasing Rob. I think this is the ideal setup for most riders.

For the weight of a granny and 4x alloy bolts why deprive yourself of a bailout opportunity?

I'd much rather see designers prioritize CS Length, Geo (STA), tire clearance, and pivot placement then have all that compromised to fit a front derailleur that you may use twice a ride on an epic (where you'll likely take some breaks anyways).

If you do find you use it more then you think, I note Absolute Black is doing a 26t//64bcd narrow wide ring.

D

***edit: I'm more sardonic than cynical (the difference being I see the humour in all of it). And no, sadly, I'm damaged goods. I try for rainbows and ponies, but I get storm clouds and carcasses…

Seriously just teasing Rob. I think this is the ideal setup for most riders.

For the weight of a granny and 4x alloy bolts why deprive yourself of a bailout opportunity?

I'd much rather see designers prioritize CS Length, Geo (STA), tire clearance, and pivot placement then have all that compromised to fit a front derailleur that you may use twice a ride on an epic (where you'll likely take some breaks anyways).

If you do find you use it more then you think, I note Absolute Black is doing a 26t//64bcd narrow wide ring.

D

Fair enough. I feel shame for my slight change of heart… I had a feeling that you (and only you) might notice my setup and make a remark about the granny ring being back on there. The change was prompted by my performance in the NRG Triple Crown in late September… it was such a brutal day of climbing and I needed a bit of help.

Thx for the Absolute Black tip. That would be a better option than the 22t bailout. They are also doing a N/W Oval chainring now… 32t in 104BCD. That's the smallest size available due to the ovality.

The change was prompted by my performance in the NRG Triple Crown in late September… it was such a brutal day of climbing and I needed a bit of help.

There are a lot of people who did the Whistler Enduro (including pro riders) who, as I understand it, would appreciate where you are coming from…

Thx for the Absolute Black tip. That would be a better option than the 22t bailout. They are also doing a N/W Oval chainring now… 32t in 104BCD. That's the smallest size available due to the ovality.

It requires more material (heavier) but the same way 30t//104bcd rings are slightly inset for clearance there is no reason that companies can't manufacture 30t//64bcd or 28t//64bcd rings that are slightly outset for chainline. Oval chain rings are a thing and I definitely think this product will exist by next summer for those that want lower gearing (no idea who would make it -- but it makes sense?)

That said, why not keep the high gear of a 32t or 34t ring and just have the option to bail down when things get F'ing steep or epic-long?

Out of curiosity, do any companies make non-N/W oval rings?

I would be very curious to try one myself on my Singlespeed (in theory the slow cadence uphill slog of 1-speeding is where they would be most advantageous/notable) but I only run 1/8" track trains -- they work fine with 8/9/10spd rings but not N/W.

Cheers,

D

Out of curiosity, do any companies make non-N/W oval rings?

I would be very curious to try one myself on my Singlespeed (in theory the slow cadence uphill slog of 1-speeding is where they would be most advantageous/notable) but I only run 1/8" track trains -- they work fine with 8/9/10spd rings but not N/W.

Cheers,

D

Rotor makes a singlespeed non-N/W Q ring in 104BCD.

Rotor makes a singlespeed non-N/W Q ring in 104BCD.

Thanks!

D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2-VGDF4y18