Pike oil change only takes like half an hour and is easy why the hell haven't I been doing this myself regularly all along?

And of course the difference in performance is orgasmic. I've done it 3 times in the last few months, it's even more satisfying than obsessively vacuuming the floor or micro cleaning your windows.

GMBN has a usable vid "How to service Rock Shox mtb fork" for a good overview. Important bits skipped over by vids:

Fork 50hr service (oil change):

•Need a good quality syringe with rubber seal. Small diameter hose.

•‎Not necessary to remove fork or clamp bike in stand. Hang by saddle when removing lowers, flip bike over when putting in oil.

•Remove brake caliper and secure it as far away as possible. Small amounts of oil will get everywhere.

•‎Wear glasses, oil can spray out under residual pressure. Even with valve core removed.

•‎Do not remove any bolts completely at first. Tap both bottom bolts first. (Gently, with plastic hammer).

•‎Clean inside of lowers with dowel and rag, there's dirt in there. Special attention to channel behind foam rings. Take some time.

•‎Replace old foam rings with new ones. They're cheap. Old rings swell when cleaned and tend to not reinstall perfectly.

•Reassemby checklist: Travel indicator O ring on stanchion, foam rings installed, Slick Honey on seal.

Remove seal springs, slide lowers on, reinstall springs.

•‎Slide lowers all the way on, then back 1 cm to leave space for oil.

•‎10ml 0W30 each side. (Says 5cc on bolt, disregard this).

•‎Don't fully compress (till bottom out) fork before reinstalling bolts.

•‎Torque bolts to 7.3Nm. (Rebound torque is 1.1Nm).

Owners should do this to new forks too. Makes such a difference because most fork seals are super dry from the factory. I did this to the last two DVO Diamonds I've owned and it basically transforms them into different beasts.

Yeah, this is just part of basic bike maintenance. Everyone should learn how to do it themselves. Not very difficult and it makes a huge improvement in performance.

Really, not any harder than bleeding brakes or setting up tubeless tires eh? 

I think some of us are scarred from older pain in the ass forks and have written the whole process off. Remember Marzocchi and the stupid dip stick? ...Fortunately those forks went forever without maintenance. And my previous gen Lyrik would require a pagan ritual and blood sacrifice before it would reassemble without leaking.

Is there a consensus on new crush washers for the lower bolts? is it ok to reuse ?

I have re-used those washers numerous times and never had a leak.  Id say ok to re-use, dont over tighten, and keep an eye for leaks.

I always reuse. Never an issue

Thanks guys,

Going to take the dive soon

Next time I'm going to try putting a lot more grease in the seal channel, like as much as will fit and see how it feels. I do this on my dropper and it feels oh so silky.

Also, I wonder if soaking the rings throws the oil levels off at all...? I know it's recommended, but sucker's sure soak up a lot of oil.

Oil level in the lowers isn't as critical as it is the in the dampers. Oil in the lowers is splash/lubrication oil only. As long as you have ~10-20ml in there, it will be fine. The amount taken up by the foam rings will be no issue.

Where are you guys buying your seals, foam rings, parts and fork oil? Seems to be hard to find parts locally (GVR) and many of the on line options won't ship SRAM to Canada. Can't find Slick Honey either.

Bought fork oil from John Henry, was on the counter next to the cash register.

Foam rings come in million years supply size, bought mine cheap online somewhere or another. Amazon I believe. Could just beg some from a shop, or buy a set from them for a fair price, (like ¢5).

Slick Honey...can't remember sorry. I know I accidentally bought it twice from two different shops though. May have been in Honolulu.

Don't need seals for the lower service.

Added in the rest of steps if anyone is too lazy to watch the video first:

Fork 50hr service (oil change):

Need a good quality syringe with rubber seal. Small diameter hose.

‎Not necessary to remove fork or clamp bike in stand. Just flip bike over when putting in oil.

•‎LET OUT ALL AIR. (Remove valve core).

•Remove brake caliper and secure it as far away as possible. Remove wheel. Oil gets everywhere.

•‎Wear glasses, oil can spray out under residual pressure. Even with valve core removed.

•‎Do not remove any bolts completely at first. Tap both bottom bolts first. Sometimes they go with one tap, sometimes need to tap away. Be gentle.

•‎Clean inside of lowers with dowel and rag, there's dirt in there. Special attention to channel behind foam rings.

•‎Replace old foam rings with new ones, after soaking in oil. (Old rings tend to swell when cleaned and not reinstall perfectly). 

•‎Reassembling:

•‎O ring on stanchion, foam rings installed, Slick Honey on seal. (Dry the seal with a rag so it sticks and put on a proper amount. Don't be stingy). Remove seal springs (leave on stanchions above seals), slide lowers on, reinstall springs.

•‎Slide lowers all the way on, then back 1 cm to leave space for oil. Fill slowly, may have to fuck with it a bit.

•‎10ml 0W30 each side. (Says 5cc on bolt, disregard this).

•‎Don't need to fully compress (till bottom out) fork before reinstalling bolts, just go till feel bolts contact.

•‎Torque bolts to 7.3Nm. (Rebound 1.1Nm).

Thanks for the very detailed instructions.  

I'm going to attempt this on my 2015 Pike this upcoming weekend. I found the accessories bag and there is a set of foam rings (and seals) that came with the fork, so I all I have to pick up is some oil.

Just as an FYI, foam rings are completely re-usable if you need them to be.  Take them out, spray and soak them in some isopropanol and press dry.  Let them soak in some of the synthetic 0W30 before re-installing.  Dont buy fork oil for the lowers, get motor oil from Canadian Tire (I use Mobil1 or Castrol).