Photo Gear Question / Remote

I had the great idea of trying to take pictures of me riding with the help of an app. It did not really work out the way I planned, since the phone is not really that good to operate while riding, even if attached to the handlebar and close to the thumb.

Soo….my question is, would it work better with a proper remote control for the camera? I could imagine because there is a distinct button and a small-ish remote is probably better to attach to the handlebar than a mobile. The camera is an entry-level DLSR and has no infrared sensor.

Do any of you have done anything like this, or maybe some of you got other ideas?

I briefly experimented with a Pixel Oppilas and a Panasonic Lumix G2.

In the pic below, the transmitter is on the right and the receiver (which attaches to the hot shoe to keep it with the camera and then runs a wire to the shutter release jack) is on the left.

The remote is a little bulkier than ideal, but I was able to attach it to my grip in such a way that I could actuate it with my thumb while still braking.

They make a bunch of different versions for Canon, Nikon, Olympus, etc.

The reason I only briefly experimented with it is I found it difficult to modulate the brakes and actuate the remote at the same time. I wound up death-gripping the remote and breaking the button. I also didn't spend enough time with it to get a handle on the delay between pressing the button and the actual shutter release.

They're pretty cheap though-I should probably order a replacement and give it another go.

If you really want to get the timing right, I think the hot ticket is a setup where the shutter is released when a beam of light is broken. Then you can position the transmitter so the shutter is released when you are at a precise location. Look at Brad Walton's work for someone who's had some impressive results with that technique.

Hey WeTyc, thanks for the reply.

I found even setting up the mobile a hassle, and thinking about it Brad's setup really delivers sick results. I was thinking about maybe creating a setup for drops and jumps, guess I might have found it.

I definitely look into this.

You could also try using the timer combo'd with burst mode. These shots are with a timer but no burst, just trial and error. Not great but hey, im posting pics! ;)

Uncle Dave has a pretty sweet setup and takes some pretty damn awesome selfies for articles.

http://nsmb.com/ask-uncle-dave/

I don't think it was cheap but it would be worth sending him a message if you're interested as I know he's experimented with multiple setups (so at least he can tell you what not to do).

I just sent him an email asking about his set-up.

Yesterday I searched the web a little, and found a light-beam/laser set-up from a company called Hama. It is pretty inexpensive as well when compared to what Brad Walton is apparently using: 90 Euros as compared to around 400 US $.

Only drawback seems to be that the receiver is connected to the camera via cable and that the maximum length is 5 metres, which does not seem to be a lot.

I just sent him an email asking about his set-up.

Yesterday I searched the web a little, and found a light-beam/laser set-up from a company called Hama. It is pretty inexpensive as well when compared to what Brad Walton is apparently using: 90 Euros as compared to around 400 US $.

Only drawback seems to be that the receiver is connected to the camera via cable and that the maximum length is 5 metres, which does not seem to be a lot.

I think I have some Hama triggers. Bought them a few years ago and never got around to trying them. I recall they worked when I had them set up in the kitchen. It was my intention to connect them with pocket wizards so I could fire a remote camera and flashes without the cables. This thread just reminded me that I had them

Two questions:

1. What is a pocket wizard?

2. Would it be not possible to ditch the cable-actuated beam set-up and sort of create one that is not depending on a cable? I really do not fancy only having 5 metres between the receiver unit and the camera.

Two questions:

1. What is a pocket wizard?

2. Would it be not possible to ditch the cable-actuated beam set-up and sort of create one that is not depending on a cable? I really do not fancy only having 5 metres between the receiver unit and the camera.

Pocket Wizards are remote triggers, can be used to trigger remote flashes or camera, or both. Expensive but good, each one cost more than the Hama unit and you need at least 2 to make it work. I have a bunch of them from when I used to actually take photos. There are much cheaper options on ebay, I've never tried them but heard they tend to be less reliable. http://www.pocketwizard.com/

If I recall the cable is just a standard mono miniphone cable. You could get a longer one, check out flash zebra. They have some 25' cables http://flashzebra.com/monominiphone/sync_cords.shtml