Packin'

This is the procedure I use for the Blur:
http://www.santacruzmtb.com/tech/blur_bearing.php

I have similar procedures for the other bikes.

This is the procedure I use for the Blur:
http://www.santacruzmtb.com/tech/blur_bearing.php

I have similar procedures for the other bikes.

Greasing mounting hardware is fine. Just not the DU.

Thanks for the info, most of my hubs [HTML_REMOVED] headsets are cartridge bearings so don't require repacking. The Park grease mostly gets used for stuff like seat posts [HTML_REMOVED] shock bushings.

yes, stuff like that i'd use lighter grease. playing around with both epx and park, especially on seat post, epx is too thick and eventually seat post slide.

I think mainly things like ball bearing hubs especially, I'd use thicker grease, they don't over heat as fast as park grease.

On all our 700rental fleet we use EPX on pedal insert, headtube, BB shell.

I use philwood on my own bike.

I use this:

while i appreciate the drawn out posts about grease - wheel bearing grease is more than enough. remember, it's a bike, you're not on the wc circuit, and when was the last time your bearing re-packing abilities compromised your ability to control your rig? … poor adjustment aside

Don't ever use a metal based grease anywhere near plastic. Most automotive grease is molybdenum based and will destroy your seals. Lithium is good for metal surfaces too, but I don't like it for rubber/plastic components.

I swore I would not get all "know it all" in this thread,but tell me,going off your advice,how in gods name can the track tensioner seals on a 90,000 lb. excavator last over 10,000 hours while being exposed to moly grease?…or every other sealed greased joint on a machine like this?

You've been had,my friend. I've used moly based lubes on my bikes for almost 20 years,primarly because I dont have to pay for it,and hardly ever have to replace a bearing.I dont recall even replacing one bearing in the past 5 years.

Stop selling snake oil….errr…snake grease.

PS. ask your rock shox rep what Judy Butter or redrum actually were…just for laughs.

I don't know anything about track tensioning seals on excavators, (I assume they have grease ports, unlike bicycles) but I have used dozens of different grease formulations in the 15 some odd years I've spent as a bicycle mechanic, and I know what I like based on that experience. Bicycles ARE fundamentally different from most other applications, especially mountain bikes in that weight is a huge design factor, as are environmental conditions.

The guy asked for advice and I told him a little of what I know. I'm not arguing with anyone here, take my input for what it is- input pertinent to the topic at hand.

I am constantly trying to squeeze as much longevity and performance out of the bicycles I work on. I could use cheap marine grease or auto grease on the bikes, but I don't, I use what I like and for good reasons based on my experience. I don't charge for grease when I'm doing repairs, so I could make extra money using cheap stuff. But I don't because I have pride in my work and that shit just does not work as well or for as long. In fact, I use different grease formulations for different applications. It's ALL about performance!

Judy Butter or Redrum is not recommended for seals. It is intended to be used on springs and elastomers and bushings.

while i appreciate the drawn out posts about grease - wheel bearing grease is more than enough. remember, it's a bike, you're not on the wc circuit, and when was the last time your bearing re-packing abilities compromised your ability to control your rig? … poor adjustment aside

When you bearings seize, that's when.
Using a web grease (One that forms stringy bits when you stretch it) means that as the bearings move, the grease doesn't get displaced, it will continue to coat the balls. It makes a significant difference to longevity of pivots.

Funny…no one has mentioned spitting on the bearing.

I swore I would not get all "know it all" in this thread,but tell me,going off your advice,how in gods name can the track tensioner seals on a 90,000 lb. excavator last over 10,000 hours while being exposed to moly grease?…or every other sealed greased joint on a machine like this?

must be why you have to grease an excavator everyday.. it having seals and all…

The major factor is going to be the frequency of maintenance not the lubricant itself. I tend to think that if you've gone to the trouble to open up a bb, headset or hub and grease it you're lightyears ahead. Use whatever grease is on the bench. You da man! There are those of us who maintain and there are those other guys - who's bikes you try and then shake your head. I think we've run out of things to argue about - consider that everyone posting or reading this thread actually owns some grease… awesome. A major factor in my selection of the Park grease was packaging - It fits in my toolbox. That Lucas stuff looks like it might fit as well. Not saying one brand isn't better than another - in fact that Enduro stuff looks the biz - looks like the answer to the OP's question - but really frequency of maintenance is key here.

I use a tube of this stuff. It has a nice blue colour and is greasy.

Interesting thread.

I am a HUGE fan of rock and Roll greases. Mostly the Super Slick and the Super Web. Super Slick seems to last a bit longer with my suspension rebuilds than slick honey ever has, and Super Web looks like frosting. How can that be bad!?! Their wax based chain lubes piss me off though. I never use that stuff.

EDIT: for the record, in my limited bicycle shop experience (5 years and counting) I have never experienced a seal break down because of grease that ate away at the rubber. When a customer asks, I dont get all nerdy because its just not practical to fuss over grease for the average rider. Phil wood and Park Grease sells easy because of the well known name. And they work great too.

must be why you have to grease an excavator everyday.. it having seals and all…

You tension tracks every day?

Didn't think so.

Everyone feel free to use whatever overpriced,relabelled lubes you like.

I'll stick to the EP2 in mt bearings and aw32 in my forks like Iv'e done forever.