Tubing info for anyone that wants the geek level.
Down tube - 38mm - .9/.6/.9 butting
Top tube - 31.8mm - .8/.5/.8
Seat tube - 28.6 - 1.2/.6/.9 external butted for 27.2 seat post
Head tube - 36mm - 1.1
Chain stays - oval 30mm/18mm - .9/.6
Seat Stays - single taper 16mm/12.3mm - .8
This deserves a handmade hardtail thread.
yeah its a ta29 - first year of production, so it's pretty chunky
no! the bidon has the old "i can't get enough water out of this waaaahn!" aperture
Oh…so you went with a even earlier medal then I did.
Gravity Dropper seatpost maybe anarchistic it still is pretty easy to work on. Took me maybe 4 minutes to shorten the cable and housing today.
From the looks of it he's brazing it I think.
Couldn't get a good look on my phone!
Shirk that is really cool. Definitely got the wheels turning in my head
you certainly jumped in the deep end there, I built racks to practice on, then some city bike frames. but then I have replaced my front teeth 3 times…
why didn't you use a 33mm zona seatube?you'd have been able to use a 31,6 seatpost with no shimming.
Lugs are available for mtb angles and tubing.
long shen 108 if I remember right,
it's a 35mm dt, 32mm tt and st.
They aren't suited for a susp fork, unless you're running 25mm of travel.
peter at ceeway has them.
for a rigid bike they work with a bit of tweaking.
Using them on this 650b bikepacking fully rigid lugged custom steel bike I'm building.
(do I get a prize for the niche-combo?)
http://revanchebikeco.wordpress.com/2014/04/26/into-the-wild-a-650b-rambler-bicycle-with-porcelain-rocket/
Bilaminate headtube, so that's why the lugs don't go arund the headtube , it's 1.5mm so it's not a problem.
working with Calgary framebag builder Scott, of Porcelain rocket, so it's a canaditalian collaboration.
Finished ride.
revanche - I used a tube kit form Nova, they don't carry the 33mm seat tube. I ordered my first tubes all from Nova. I got a set of the Slant Six lugs and this "29'er" tubeset. I already had the 27.2 gravity dropper.
For the seat tube reaming I am lucky to have a friend working at Rocky Mountain and they helped me out with access to a reamer. I plan to buy an adjustable reamer of my own for future builds. The bb face and chase and head tube reaming was done by my good friend Matt J owner of North Shore Bike Shop.
I aligned the rear end with a pretty basic bodged jig. Two lengths of aluminium L channel and some threaded rod. I please to put my rear wheel into the drops and have it run nice straight and true to the eye and considered that close enough for me.
you've done a good job, amazing job considering it's your first.
The wheel centre gauge I use is diy, two lenghts of rod welded at 90deg, one turned down to form axle slots, the top has a threaded hole, for a 5mm bolt.
keep on borrowing the reamer, adjustable ones aren't worth it.
cyclus do some quite good and affordable reamers and the like. use them myself.
Stoked for ya Shirk. I have been watching all of your questions over the years over on the frame building forum on MTB. Glad it finally came out so nice.
just to bring this thread down a notch. the GF got tired of waiting for her new bike to show up and bought a Honzo. I had an old set of LX crank arms kicking around and tossed on a getto granny for her. north shore billet 32 tooth variable tooth ring with a race face 22 tooth granny. and the wheel came tubless ready. so far she is have a ton of fun on it. claims it jumps way better then she thought it would as she is learning to preload with her legs. the parts spec is pretty good for a sub 2k retail bike. toss a dropper post on it in the future.
Just a speculative fiction. No cause for alarm.
revanche - capillary welding, so hot!
shirk - you used the bar in s/t straight edge across a perfectly trued tire-less rear wheel trick and a round file on the d/o's to find out your s/t c/s placement was perfect, right?
GF got tired of waiting for her new bike to show up and bought a Honzo
My wife laughed!
Freedom of contract. We sell them guns that kill them; they sell us drugs that kill us.
nice shade of green on that honzo.
With a bit of practice you can determine alignement just by eye.
but you can easily diy the park alignement gauge.
Not normally a fan of blue on bikes but yeah that looks nice!
The Bad Otis is certainly inspiration for my next mtb build.
PSA - there's a 26" small chromag samurai for $1200 on the whistler craigslist
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