Newmad for Whistler

I'd wager pennies that he likely meant head tube angle;)

Cmrocks, you have a Bronson right? But you weren't happy with the suspension if I recall? I believe SC has a custom tunes CCDB Air for that bike now, which changes the character of it quite a bit. Upgrade to something like that, perhaps a new 36, and like others have said, buy a zee level DH bike for park (even used)---saves pennies, and you have two bikes!

I'd wager pennies that he likely meant head tube angle;)

Cmrocks, you have a Bronson right? But you weren't happy with the suspension if I recall? I believe SC has a custom tunes CCDB Air for that bike now, which changes the character of it quite a bit. Upgrade to something like that, perhaps a new 36, and like others have said, buy a zee level DH bike for park (even used)---saves pennies, and you have two bikes!

Totally. In Van there seems to be a stronger case for a single Enduro wonder-bike. In Whistler the division between park and everything else is wider.
i.e. I agree. Get a bruiser park bike and then a slightly jacked Bronson to make the most of BCXC up and down the S2S corridor.

A Newmad is a darn fancy bike to beat up at Whistler - and Whistler will beat up your bike.

I say used mid-range DH bike to thrash at the park and a nice bike to pedal everywhere else.

that totally makes sense - but if that's the only reason dhbikes have slack sta's, it makes the slack angle a necessity for designing around a long-travel rear end, not a helpful performance feature for riding park

a few weeks ago on instagram, i asked when the stylus was going to get a steeper sta. the answer suggested that a slack sta was better for a burly hardtail, which makes no sense to me:

edit: sorry for the thread derail…

The theory is that you can have a long effective TT with the saddle up without pushing the wheelbase out. With the saddle dropped it moves forward and out of the way for getting rad on, per the suggestion, Gargamel. That is the theory.

The theory is that you can have a long effective TT with the saddle up without pushing the wheelbase out. With the saddle dropped it moves forward and out of the way for getting rad on, per the suggestion, Gargamel. That is the theory.

I've heard that theory. I found it to be different in practice because when you lower the seat it slides forward. I do a lot of steering by squeezing the seat with my legs. When the saddle drops down and forward this becomes hard to do. Though it can be good on ultra steeps I find it detrimental for most bike park riding.

How often are you going to ride the park? The nomad will be great and if you aren't racing DH or putting tons of days in the park you'll be golden. I used my kona process in the park about 15 days last year, no problem, have ridden nearly every trail on it. Use a glory for the other 70+ days I rode though. I also spent less than a bling-bling nomad would cost for both my process (used) and glory. I'm not sure if I would own a DH bike if I didn't live in whistler and have a seasons pass every year.

The theory is that you can have a long effective TT with the saddle up without pushing the wheelbase out. With the saddle dropped it moves forward and out of the way for getting rad on, per the suggestion, Gargamel. That is the theory.

This works in theory if tt length is what you're concerned with, but it falls apart if you like a bike with a longer reach measurement.

I've got a lot of time on a Nomad and on a V10; tiny amount of time on a Newmad.

If you want a playful bike that'll pop with much less effort and speed go for a Nomad/Newmad. Big and fast bike that'll just go? Get a DH bike.

I'd wager pennies that he likely meant head tube angle;)

maybe. but then what did flattire and chromag mean?

The theory is that you can have a long effective TT with the saddle up without pushing the wheelbase out.

i get the math, but what's the advantage for dh riding of a longer top tube/short reach?

This works in theory if tt length is what you're concerned with, but it falls apart if you like a bike with a longer reach measurement.

ok, a slacker sta = longer ett which is better for seated pedalling, without a longer reach. i could see that its a tradeoff that makes sense for pulling tricks ("busting whips and 3's") - but does it make sense for burly/fast riding ("dropping in on gargamel… and smashing berms" and "[a] slack seat angle does make DH better")?

in a better position for… what?

pedaling? that doesn't seem like it would be a priority

getting behind? it would seem like the further back a seat is, the hard it would be to get behind (and back on)

sitting on? i guess if the tt was really short…

i'm not trying to take the piss - i'm genuinely curious. i've heard this said, but never heard anyone explain why (they think) it is so

@ boomforeal: Its all about saddle location. When doing DH runs in whistler sometimes you need to sit your ass down during a run as your tired, your legs are just gassed, etc.

And since the bike is pointed downhill a slacker seat tube puts the saddle back. Combine this with the fact that the seat is quite low to begin with minimizing the effect of the angle…

On my FR bike I run my saddle all the way forward for general use (climbing included) but on park days I slide it all the way back and its def more comfortable.

@ boomforeal: Its all about saddle location. When doing DH runs in whistler sometimes you need to sit your ass down during a run as your tired, your legs are just gassed, etc.

so a slack seat tube angle is better for seated descending? i guess that makes sense, if you're into that sort of thing ;)

Giant Glory 1 - $3,700 (Zee drivetrain)

Giant Reign 2 - $2,850 (SLX/Deore Drivetrain, Pike)

Total - $6,550, or the same price as the lower end Nomad.

I have never been able to justify ultra high end bits, mostly because parts wear/break/become obsolete so quickly. I know what I would do, but each to their own.

so a slack seat tube angle is better for seated descending? i guess that makes sense, if you're into that sort of thing

yup. If a Dh bike is going to have a saddle, may as well be in the best position.

So you dont run a saddle on your Dh bike?

Ever notice how so many Dh bikes have their saddle tilted back more than usual? What a bunch of freaks eh?

I was a devoted Santa Cruz fan for a long time, still think they make fantastic bikes but I think they're pricing is borderline outlandish when you look at all the other great options out there.

If it was me, I'd buy a dedicated DH rig for the park and a second, lighter bike for pedalling.

If you're dead-set on the Newmad I doubt you'll be disappointed with the purchase but like many have said, buying two fantastic bikes from almost any other manufacturer for the same price as one from SC doesn't seem like a hard decision to make.