Marzocchi 55RS too soft

I just bought a 2009 Norco Sasquatch and the 55RS is, I think, too soft for me (I can use 5 out of the 6" just hopping in the parking lot). I asked about swapping springs to a stiffer set, but the bike shop said those are the only springs it comes with and I would have to order new ones in. So here are my options:

A) Order new springs in (even though they couldn't find them in the catalogue) and pay $70, but they'll put them in for free.

Or,

B) Attach a schrader valve (I pay $35, work is free) to the top of the fork and fill it with air to stiffen it up.

Is swapping springs at the point of purchase that better suit the customer not something that should be done automatically? And for free? Also, is simply pumping the fork full of air with a schrader valve something that is commonly done and done safely?

I've been out of biking for a few years so I'm not sure what's going on. The bike shop seems to think using that much travel while just pushing down wont cause the bike to bottom off a jump/drop. I'm confused and a little lost here.
:S

I guess that I should add that I'm about 165lbs. I'm not a very big guy.

Ideally the shop should order / swap the spring, but on the other hand if the fork is like any older Marz fork it might only need around 10psi to stiffen it up. Borrow a shock pump off the shop / friend and stick some air in.

Ideally the shop should order / swap the spring, but on the other hand if the fork is like any older Marz fork it might only need around 10psi to stiffen it up. Borrow a shock pump off the shop / friend and stick some air in.

Okay so adding air is normal? I wasn't really familiar with it so I was a little hesitant. The only issue with adding air is there's no where to add it (atleast the guys in the shop couldn't find where to). That's why they suggested adding the shrader valve?

Ah I see….I guess the RS is an OEM fork, but presumably you take off one or both of the top caps to reveal the valve. The R version of the fork has a valve. I've not looked at a post '07 Marz fork in any depth but presumably the air valve is in the same place.

As for the shop suggesting adding a valve?? Maybe Marz Canada might want to play about with that sort of thing but I wouldn't want anyone with a drill attacking my fork and bodging a valve into it. I've still got memory of a Marzocchi Star Fork (the first Marz MTB fork) flying out of the fork and hitting me in the face…

What is your sag?
if you have 25[HTML_REMOVED]#37;-28% you have the correct spring, you need to boost compression. If you have higher sag than stated, get new spring.

Every companies spring chart is abit different.

http://www.marzocchi.com/Template/listSPAManualsMTB.asp?IDFolder=126[HTML_REMOVED]IDA=56330[HTML_REMOVED]LN=UK[HTML_REMOVED]Sito=usa-mtb

Click the 55 manual, not as it really matters as all the manuals seem to be the same! Have a read through but it looks like sticking around 10psi in the fork should do the job. You just need to figure out how to remove the cap but it should be fairly obvious.

the 55RS doesn't have an Air preload valve. it's a big PITA for shops because tuning for rider weight used to simply be a matter of a few PSI, but the RS is coming on lots of larger-volume/price point bikes.

What is your sag?
if you have 25%-28% you have the correct spring, you need to boost compression. If you have higher sag than stated, get new spring.

Every companies spring chart is abit different.

How do I measure sag? Just put my weight over the bars and see how far it drops? If thats how, I think it's pretty close to 30%.

the 55RS doesn't have an Air preload valve. it's a big PITA for shops because tuning for rider weight used to simply be a matter of a few PSI, but the RS is coming on lots of larger-volume/price point bikes.

How do I go about getting it tuned for my weight? Or can I?

well, if you're only at about 30[HTML_REMOVED]#37; sag, you might be able to up the mechanical preload to achieve proper sag.

basically, put a zip tie around one fork leg, get a buddy to help hold the bike, and get into a standing riding position. get off the bike without pushing the fork down, and measure how far the zip tie has moved. this as a percentage of your total travel is sag. if you're over 30%, you're going to need a new spring most likely. if you're under, the fork leg without the rebound adjuster knob should have a little rubber/plastic cap in the center, pull the rubber bit off gently, and there will be an allen screw under there. you can crank that clockwise to preload the spring more which will help you sit higher in the travel and get the proper amount of sag. I would shoot for 25% myself.

the caveat is, if you need to crank like mad, you're still going to blow through the travel once the preload pressure is overcome. basically, if you have just a smidge too much sag, you can correct it with the preload screw, otherwise you're going to need a new spring or an air preload cap.

Call marz in north van 604-986-3675 ask to talk to Naz. Or even better take your bike there and ask someone how to set-up your fork.

How do I measure sag? Just put my weight over the bars and see how far it drops? If thats how, I think it's pretty close to 30[HTML_REMOVED]#37;.

put a zip tie, and go on your bike as you would ride.
Measure the distance between bottom of the zip tie to the seal.

Generally speaking longer your travel, more sag you can get away with 28-33%. shorter travel you want to keep it 20-25%.

I had 28% sag before, and it used to dive ALOT, where i would bottom it out easily. You might need new oil in your damper, as it may have broken down alot, you should also turn up your compression. It made a big difference to me, even though i can still compress 60-70% of my travel just in the parking lot still. It makes riding alot more controlled, and you won't go over the bar.

Once you have your sag dialed in. it is time for you to choose what type of riding you do, and what type of damping adjustments are the best suited for you. Generally if you want to corner better, you want higher compression, if you don't want to dive as much, you need more compression, if you want your fork to pick up smaller bump, you need less compression. Rebound also plays a big roll on how "stiff" your fork may feel on the trail.

bounceing on a fork hard should be able to almost get you to the end of your travel. so i think using 5 of the 6 inchs bouncing on it seems about the right stiffness. If you make the fork to stiff it will loose alot of its small bump sensitivity. i run my forks with a good 30 to 35[HTML_REMOVED]#37; sag and i do every thing on my bikes from DJ, to DH, to FR, to riding to work and back. if you do have problems with your forks bottoming out once you start riding them on trails you can adjust the oil heights or go to a thicker oil.