make or break

whoa, slack sta and long reach… that would add up to a crazy long top tube

what do you ride? yeti's maybe the only brand that i can think of that fits that mold

so when's your geometron arriving?

First gen Bronson in medium. 50mm stem. tt is 23" with a 73 sa. Rode a medium highball for a couple seasons too. I think I have shrunk to 5'4" in my senior years. 31 inseam though and arms to match. I have longer arms than a friend who is 5'11". Dunno how he wipes his bum. My road and cross bikes have a 53 and 53.6 tt which I run a 90 mm and 80 mm stem respectively.

The argument I've used before is try convincing dirt bike that they should have their feet 350mm apart.

There's no arguing with me on how I prefer my pedaling and bike handling to feel but thanks for the tips. The moto point is apples and oranges. Try convincing a surfer they should surf with their feet together.

Einstein agrees with you though…

[QUOTE=ol' dirty;2907560]Try convincing a surfer they should surf with their feet together.
[/QUOTE]
Word!

[IMG]http://content.quiksilver.com/www/2014.roxy.com/html/upload/roxy_usa/news/images/3/2012/11/RX-003943P_WLB_Kelia_703x703.jpg[/IMG]

Ok I'm convinced. Let's just do away with cranks all together.

I'm installing highway pegs on my fork lowers an doing away with cranks altogether. Think of how easy riding steep shit will be.

[QUOTE=ol' dirty;2907560]The moto point is apples and oranges.[/QUOTE]

sig-worthy

For the most part I find I tend to get used to whatever I'm riding.

That said I'm really not a fan of wide q-factor and bad chain lines. Poor shifting, greatly accelerated drivetrain wear and poor ergonomics.

Anyone remember the old Giant DH bikes with the 100mm BB? Those were particularly awful although most sane people weren't pedaling them very far. Some modern trails bikes are still surprisingly bad though.

Welding.

Some of these bikes look like they were welded by a rank amatuer.

Some look like the half the frame was welded before lunch, wherein the welder (so called) then went and got hammered on their lunch hour before welding the remainder of the frame, dead drunk.

People are stupid. STUPID.They are dupes to pay 4, 5 or 6 grand for a bike with garbage welding.

I'm not saying the frame is going to fall to pieces when ridden, but ffs when you pay that much do you not expect the cosmetics of the welding to reflect value input?

Man, I see shit that if we'd done that in the weld shop in my day Billy Chang woulda' dragged the culprit out back and made them eat chicken feet.

Punks. Punks are running bike companies these days and they are laughing at YOU!

Reliability!

Bikes are very efficient, plush, light and nice. The only MAJOR annoyance I came across in 2015 were defective components. Good thing there's warranty, but it's a big hassle and especially an environmental issue!

Alright, I did ride a lot, but I've had lots of almost new parts failing.

And you know what, it sounds like a conspiracy theory, but most failures I encountered were on parts from SRAM, Truvativ or Rock shox.

I mean I really love how they work, when they do, they have appealing design and are innovative. But they just don't hold up.

Pike creaky creaky, 1x11 x-horizon RD clutch fuckup, Guide and Elixir trail suck air, press fit BB bearings crumble. Most issues I had several times!

Planned obsolescence comes to mind. They even have it as a business slogan: SRAM - incremental enhancements, perpetual improvements…

WTF?

I buy top dollar bike stuff and do it willingly. And because it's a luxury and a hobby I'll probably buy several redundant expensive bikes/parts if I like them. Even if I don't need them. And I'll pay for them willingly.

But if I buy only one, then need and get several warranty replacements for free - I won't feel like I've made a good deal. I'll feel like someone who's being played with and who is taking part in willingly polluting and wasting our planet.

I'll NOT buy that stuff again and look at other companies with different ethics.

I'm coming around to the same conclusion re: SRAM, particularly vs Shimano.

I gave up on SRAM drivetrain and brake stuff for Shimano years ago and now the hassles my Reverbs have giving me are making me re-think their approach to releasing/designing product. Not to mention million dollar drivetrain wear items.

Seems like they do product testing on their customers and a lot of the market has just decided to accept it. Every Shimano product I've ever had has been reliable and performs well until I destroy it or wear it out, which generally takes quite a while.

My Revelation has been excellent however. I'd still consider a Pike for my next fork. Maybe.

Seat tube angles where I'm going to be seated over the rear axle

Complete build kits and frame-only where I can't chose my own shock or purchase a no shock option.

breaking it for me is riding buddies who can only talk about geo and this latest tech and that. just ride your fucking bike.

Seat tube angles where I'm going to be seated over the rear axle

Complete build kits and frame-only where I can't chose my own shock or purchase a no shock option.

Agree with this…

I'm not overly concerned with power output, but more the size of the circles I'm spinning. Longer cranks feel good when you have longer legs.

Also, everything being equal, a longer lever arm will get you up and over an obstacle much easier. I'm not talking about spinning up something, I'm talking about cranking up a steep technical climb that might require a track stand moment or two. Think up to Value Added or Somewhere Over There. 175mm cranks still have a place on bikes.

Completely agree. I've tried shorter cranks quite a few times over the years and always migrate back to 180s. They just feel right no matter which way I go about it. Even after a long stint on my Nomad3 with 175mm cranks it just doesn't feel right. At 6'5" tall, the 180mm cranks just feel right to me and you learn to compensate for ground strikes over time.