New posts

Magura technical question

Feb. 2, 2020, 5:39 p.m.
Posts: 346
Joined: May 11, 2018

Hey, just picked up a set of MT Trail brakes. The bike has internal routing so I will have to disconnect the hose from the lever to run it through the frame, cut the excess and probably rebleed. 

Question 1: should I just drain all the oil out first so I don't get oil leaking all over the place when I am running through the frame?

Question 2: I have really good cable cutters, do I need to use magura hose cutters?

Any other tips? I've watched the magura videos, seems pretty straight forward. 

Thanks in advance.

Feb. 2, 2020, 6:14 p.m.
Posts: 1172
Joined: Sept. 30, 2006

Id just seal the cut brake line with something. I use a product called Parafilm, which is like a stretchy waxy sealer that is waterproof. No point in dumping out all the oil in my opinion.

For cutting the cable, id use a very sharp Olfa type blade if you dont have a dedicated cutter. You can probably get away with the cable cutters, but I find they will always crush/deform the cable somewhat even if they are good and sharp. The most important part is making sure the cable is cut flush (no angle) so that the barb seats properly.

Good luck!


 Last edited by: shoreboy on Feb. 2, 2020, 6:19 p.m., edited 1 time in total.
Feb. 3, 2020, 9:28 a.m.
Posts: 1071
Joined: Nov. 8, 2003

No need to drain the fluid. Running it from the bottom, hardly any fluid leaks. Brake package should have a tiny little white plug that came with the olives.

Cutting hose with cable cutters tends to create a diagonal cut for some reason. Guess can go back straighten up cut with some scissors pretty easily.

Running new hoses is a snap. Basic bleed is a snap too-        The real issue will be getting the levers to feel completely solid. Bit of a faff for the last bit.

Drill a hole in top 3rd of syringe and flick the lever technique: 

https://youtu.be/AljHARI65sI

Feb. 3, 2020, 9:50 a.m.
Posts: 1321
Joined: Feb. 17, 2009

When I installed my MT Trail Carbon, I did so with the park tools cable cutter, lost very little fluid and didn't need a bleed. Maybe luck, maybe the air bubbles haven't traveled up in the three months of riding since install.

Feb. 4, 2020, 5:56 a.m.
Posts: 41
Joined: Dec. 1, 2008

I cut mine with a cable cutter, no issue at all. When installing the barb, make extra sure that it goes in all the way and stays flush. I used the clamping blocks from the bleedkit and a vise for holding while hammering in the barb.

A rebleed was necessary, make sure to use the correct fitting (there are two different ones in the bleed kit).


 Last edited by: Timer on Feb. 4, 2020, 5:58 a.m., edited 1 time in total.
Feb. 6, 2020, 6:55 p.m.
Posts: 1071
Joined: Nov. 8, 2003

Tried the "Schnelles Befuellen" method from Magura vid above, worked well. Did front brake with the regular push-pull fluid method only, rear brake added the Schnelles step. Rear was noticeably more solid. Not Shimano rock solid, but probably SRAM solid.

This method worked well for pulling air out, even after a good bleed I got a couple more small bubbles. Trouble is syringe is just balanced there so it can't handle much pressure and you need to carefully hold it in place. Awkward method in general, but only a 5 minute investment of time for noticeable improvement.

Bit of a disappointment that after all these years this is where disc brake bleeding technology is at. SRAM bleeding edge is great, but DOT is devil juice. Magura threaded caliper is great, but the master cylinder threads are marzipan.

Shimano, a new Saint with screw in bleed ports? Along with some premium (stainless?) quality syringes that can handle a strong vacuum?


 Last edited by: Hepcat on Feb. 6, 2020, 8:32 p.m., edited 1 time in total.
Feb. 8, 2020, 1:23 p.m.
Posts: 346
Joined: May 11, 2018

Installed my new brakes last night. Did a bleed and it all seems to be ok. If it gets spongy I will try the Schnelles Befuellen technique suggested above. To be clear, the Schnelles Befuellen is just pushing and pulling fluid through the closed system right?

Feb. 8, 2020, 2:28 p.m.
Posts: 1071
Joined: Nov. 8, 2003

Yeah, after doing it a couple of times I'd say it's just the pulling that's doing any good. Have to pull hard on the syringe to create enough suction to get bubbles. Pushing seems a bit pointless? Popped the syringe out a couple of times that way.

Pulling the syringe up above the hole as the last step allowing fluid to drain into the brake seems like a better substitute than trying to push fluid in under pressure.

Forum jump: