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Lyrik not getting full travel

May 3, 2014, 10:17 p.m.
Posts: 0
Joined: April 16, 2014

Coming from a fox fork previously, I tried a couple ml of float fluid on top of the piston when I rebuilt the lyrik. Bad idea! It moves to the negative chamber like Vorsprung explained. It makes it super harsh, the fork felt like crap. Rockshox recommend to use only grease instead and I would avoid oil altogether in there. FWIW, it felt like it made the seals swell as well, the piston didn't move freely when moving it by hand with the air spring disassembled.

If there is no oil in there and every thing looks good, I would look at the o-rings around the baseplate and shaft. Basically the same ones as for the OP, but on the spring side. It's a pretty basic air sping, there is not much that can go wrong and you said you looked at the valve already.

Hope it helps

Good advice in general. A note on this - there is only one oil I'd recommend using to lubricate air spring seals and that's Float fluid, but all you want to do is wipe a bit of it on the sliding surfaces (seals and piston/bushing), not pour it in there (except in the case of Float forks as you mentioned), as all oils do interfere with the volumes of the respective air chambers. If you don't have access to Float fluid, slick honey grease is the other option (non-silicone-based greases also not recommended). Other suspension oils are much too thin to do the job and will result in things feeling comparatively sticky. However, over time grease simply gets pushed out of the way and stops lubricating as effectively, so it tends to be a shorter-term solution than a lick of Float fluid.

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TLA Compression System - Fox 34 CTD Upgrade Kits

May 7, 2014, 1:25 p.m.
Posts: 8256
Joined: Nov. 21, 2002

there was indeed fluid all up in that air spring.

so when I reassemble, should I not follow the manual's suggestion to put 6ml of 15w in the upper tube and 15ml of 15w in the lower leg? Just grease? Many thanks

on pg 8
http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/pY...e_manual_0.pdf

WTB Frequency i23 rim, 650b NEW - $40

May 7, 2014, 10:37 p.m.
Posts: 0
Joined: April 16, 2014

there was indeed fluid all up in that air spring.

so when I reassemble, should I not follow the manual's suggestion to put 6ml of 15w in the upper tube and 15ml of 15w in the lower leg? Just grease? Many thanks

on pg 8
http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/pY...e_manual_0.pdf

15ml of 15wt in the lowers is correct, but wiping a bit of Float fluid (I don't recommend using any other oil for that) or some slick honey on the main piston seal, plus a bit of slick honey on the o-ring in the seal head, is all you want to do in there. Putting any measurable amount of oil in the air spring makes things worse rather than better. While you've got it apart, it's worth changing out at least the dynamic seals (seal head and main piston) too, as those are wear items.

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TLA Compression System - Fox 34 CTD Upgrade Kits

May 8, 2014, 1:43 p.m.
Posts: 8256
Joined: Nov. 21, 2002

damn, still no negative spring. I guess I'll replace the assembly and see what that does.

Thanks for your help!

WTB Frequency i23 rim, 650b NEW - $40

April 30, 2022, 12:54 p.m.
Posts: 1
Joined: April 30, 2022

I know it’s been a while since this was last discussed, but do you know the size of the damper seal head o ring. This just happened to my spare bike I lend to friends.

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