Knolly bearings replacement

Hi everyone,

I am in the process of replacing all the bearings on my first generation warden frame.

I have all the necessary tools : bearing press, adapters, ...

I just can't remove the axle located close to the BB.

Is there any specific technique ? or shall I just hammer it out with a rubber mallet ?

Thanks,

Vincent.

I had the same problem with my Norco Fluid last year. The axle in the main pivot above the BB was seized to the inner race of the bearing. I was able to get one of the end bolts off, so I slid a t-handle hex wrench into the axle until it was resting against the bolt on the other end, and started tapping the handle with increasing force until the axle eventually broke free.

Put in new bearings, polished and greased the axle, and my bike was gloriously creak free after reassembly!

I have a carbon warden that I just took apart. Mine has an Allen key on the non drive side and the axle sits in the frame on the drive side and is held in place by its fit in the frame. I loosened the bolt on the non- drive side and before it was all the way out, gave a gentle tap on the bolt driving the axle out the other side. Came out easily. It is only a year old though.

Tthis is probably a good reminder that servicing all pivot points with a cleaning and new grease should be a yearly (or more) task. Besides extending the life of your bike and keeping the quality of the ride high by allowing the suspension to work properly, it also makes the job way easier when you do it. Plus for the really frugally minded you can pop the seals of the bearings, clean them out and repack them with grease instead of buying new ones and probably get 2-3 times the life out of them.

Thank you guys ; I knew I would have to pay for my lack of care for these specific points.

Theses days I'm going to everything that needs service on my bike.

I wanted to replace them, but all the frame bearings were in great condition. I just popped the seal and add some bearing grease as Syncro just recommended.

I did the same on my i9 torch hubs. Unbelievable how clean they were after almost 5 years of use.

The only two last things that need attention are the main pivot and the BB.

Hopefully, I'll make it !

But, if anybody knows the secret trick to remove it effortlessly, please, share !

Thanks again in advance !

Get yourself some copper anti-seize. One little tube will last you years. Smear a little bit wherever axles contact bearing races. The anti-seize will stay effective a lot longer than grease, and keeps the bits from seizing together. 

I had a Devinci Spartan several bikes ago that was stuck so badly I thought the frame might break getting it out. Pounded it out with a steel rod and small sledge hammer.  Ever since then I've been religious about the anti-seize, even putting it on new bikes (along with torquing to spec), and haven't had that problem again.

Thanks ! I wish I haven't been that lazy for so long !

I'll make it, eventually ...

When it does seize, using PB Blaster will work great and massively reduce the risk of collateral damage swinging a sledge hammer at your bike.

Posted by: Heinous

When it does seize, using PB Blaster will work great and massively reduce the risk of collateral damage swinging a sledge hammer at your bike.

I didn't know that product ; I thought you said something related to PinkBike ; lol !

With regards to cleaning and repacking bearings, I have always just replaced sealed bearings but I decided I'd give it a go on an old raceface bb on my single speed that was a bit crunchy. I watched a youtube video then went at it with a small screwdriver to get the seals off - that part went smooth. When I did the first one, the bearings were all visible so i cleaned them with a rag and then packed in a ton of fresh grease. When I went on to the second one, there was another "seal underneath" - I didn't realize the cartridge was in backwards so you couldn't see the bearings. Of course I went at prying at the retainer and partially removed it but couldn't get it to seat in again so I ended up just pulling it out. Now I have loose bearings on one side. Ended up throwing some grease in and putting the seal on. Seems to spin nicely.

I'm going to go and get a new BB but anyone ever run a bb bearing with no retainer ring?

What do you guys use to clean the bearings? Do you do it differently for a bb cup where you only have access to one side of the bearing?

Thanks for your advice

Posted by: RAHrider

With regards to cleaning and repacking bearings, I have always just replaced sealed bearings but I decided I'd give it a go on an old raceface bb on my single speed that was a bit crunchy. I watched a youtube video then went at it with a small screwdriver to get the seals off - that part went smooth. When I did the first one, the bearings were all visible so i cleaned them with a rag and then packed in a ton of fresh grease. When I went on to the second one, there was another "seal underneath" - I didn't realize the cartridge was in backwards so you couldn't see the bearings. Of course I went at prying at the retainer and partially removed it but couldn't get it to seat in again so I ended up just pulling it out. Now I have loose bearings on one side. Ended up throwing some grease in and putting the seal on. Seems to spin nicely.

I'm going to go and get a new BB but anyone ever run a bb bearing with no retainer ring?

What do you guys use to clean the bearings? Do you do it differently for a bb cup where you only have access to one side of the bearing?

Thanks for your advice

My method, whether doing it from one side still in the bike or removed is basically the same. I usually do this in the frame, once I pull them it's usually time to replace.

Pop the seal off, and shoot the bearings with penetrating oil. Spin them a few times, blast with a blow gun on your compressor (makes a mess, so beware), shoot with oil again, repeat until they seem totally free of gunk. Then blast them one final time with the blow gun to remove any remaining penetrating oil. It's a quick job.

This works without a compressor blow gun, just takes more time and more penetrating oil to get them clean. If you think the penetrating oil will get inside your frame while doing this, I'd use Triflow instead. It makes a fantastic (though expensive) cleaning oil, and won't dry sticky or caustic the way WD-40 or other penetrators can.