Input on DH frame

Those are some good reasons but I would say all of them are unnecessary, and a 1.5 system will add extra weight. But I guess why not? Give people the option of freeriding the bike with a 1.5 singlecrown if they want to…

I thought one of the chief advantages of 1.5 is avoiding head tube ovalization. Or is that not a concern in DH bikes?

What he said except full length seat tube. Just my personal preference for aesthetics. Plus easily replaceable and affordable drop outs.

Here is what I'd want personally:

- 1 1/8" headset
- Standard roughly 3 : 1 leverage ratio
- 9" rear wheel travel
- Copy the geometry off an Intense M6
- FSR 4-bar suspension
- Aluminium frame
- Full length external housing
- 150 x 12mm rear end works for me with a 83mm BB shell. This enables wider pivot spacing and a stiffer rear end
- Entire frame must be torsionally stiff
- Light frame, sub 10lb with a shock
- Skip any integrated bash features
- An integrated rear fender would be a nice option ala new V10
- Integrated bump stops for stanctions
- No floating brake, they're a pain in the ass
- No idler pulleys on the drive train
- Offer it in flashy colours if its a race bike
- No need for a full length seat tube
- No need for derailleur mounting
- ISCG chain guide tabs
- Enough rear tire width for some 2.7" tires, ALL 2.5" tires
- Short head tube length
- Replaceable derailleur hangers that are easy to purchase
- Use deep groove ball bearings or taper roller bearings for all pivots. Use cheap bearings that are easy to find, this may eliminate tapered roller bearings
- Use pinch bolts on the pivot bearing housings in order to make bearing replacement easy
- Easy to access shock adjustments, don't have to remove linkages to remove shock
- Frames ship with both BB and headtube faced

full length seat tube doesnt matter much for me.. if its a DH bike you arent going to be pedaling up the hill before your run anyways

also, if you are a serious racer, you should know how high you want your seat, and cut off the extra

Here is what I'd want personally:

- 1 1/8" headset
- Standard roughly 3 : 1 leverage ratio
- 9" rear wheel travel
- Copy the geometry off an Intense M6
- FSR 4-bar suspension
- Aluminium frame
- Full length external housing
- 150 x 12mm rear end works for me with a 83mm BB shell. This enables wider pivot spacing and a stiffer rear end
- Entire frame must be torsionally stiff
- Light frame, sub 10lb with a shock
- Skip any integrated bash features
- An integrated rear fender would be a nice option ala new V10
- Integrated bump stops for stanctions
- No floating brake, they're a pain in the ass
- No idler pulleys on the drive train
- Offer it in flashy colours if its a race bike
- No need for a full length seat tube
- No need for derailleur mounting
- ISCG chain guide tabs
- Enough rear tire width for some 2.7" tires, ALL 2.5" tires
- Short head tube length
- Replaceable derailleur hangers that are easy to purchase
- Use deep groove ball bearings or taper roller bearings for all pivots. Use cheap bearings that are easy to find, this may eliminate tapered roller bearings
- Use pinch bolts on the pivot bearing housings in order to make bearing replacement easy
- Easy to access shock adjustments, don't have to remove linkages to remove shock
- Frames ship with both BB and headtube faced

So why 4-bar FSR suspension? over say VPP
Otherwise it sounds almost like you are asking for an M6 or a V10 besides the travel specifics, and maybe bearings. Minor things, but we are choosing the "perfect" DH bike i understand.

I

:lol: MAJIN :lol:

:lol: MAJIN :lol:

damn, beat me to it!

So why 4-bar FSR suspension? over say VPP
Otherwise it sounds almost like you are asking for an M6 or a V10 besides the travel specifics, and maybe bearings. Minor things, but we are choosing the "perfect" DH bike i understand.

Having owned and raced on a linkage driven single pivot, VPP and FSR bike I personally think the FSR suspension design works the best. A good FSR design (like the Demo or Norco Team DH) will have zero chain growth, pedal well and have neutral braking characteristics. The leverage rates from the FSR are slightly progressive and eat bumps well. VPP bikes and single pivots still work well when executed properly, I just feel the FSR 4-bar offers the best performance of the suspension designs I've ridden.

On a side note an FSR suspended M6 is likely my dream bike.

Having owned and raced on a linkage driven single pivot, VPP and FSR bike I personally think the FSR suspension design works the best. A good FSR design (like the Demo or Norco Team DH) will have zero chain growth, pedal well and have neutral braking characteristics. The leverage rates from the FSR are slightly progressive and eat bumps well. VPP bikes and single pivots still work well when executed properly, I just feel the FSR 4-bar offers the best performance of the suspension designs I've ridden.

On a side note an FSR suspended M6 is likely my dream bike.

That's interesting to hear. Not that I disagree, I think that Devinci have done a good job with the Wilsons they have right now in the way of geo. and suspension feel. I've never ridden a demo or Norco.
In the world of ever changing suspension "marketing" designs some people just like what has a history of success (M1). Others are willing to jump on the bandwagon of the new latest and "greatest". I do think that a well execute VPP does work well, and the right linkage driven single pivots.

I know someone who would say that the new mongoose bikes are stupid for making a unified rear triangle bike with an extra link.

I've never ridden a Norco

+1

• "Disc bash" rear
• Floating brake

My old mountain cycle 9.5 had these integrated into one piece which was a great design. I don't actually think either is necessary but if you want a floater you should go with a similar idea. Here is a picture of the piece(top left)