Help! seized-and now stripped-bolt

One of the bolts for my rear shock has miraculously seized in less than 12 hours, and now it is also stripped. Any Idea how I can get it off now?

Weird thing is, I didn't over tighten it and I have removed and installed this bolt close to 20 times from swapping shocks and such so I don't get what happened

I would try vise grips first if you can get a grip on the head.

depending on the size, you might be able to cut a slot across the head, and use an impact driver to break things loose.

does it thread into a nut or into the frame?

bolts dont usually strip UNLESS they are over tightened. also - add grease to all bolt heads before putting them in - especially if its a metal bolt going into aluminum

bolts dont usually strip UNLESS they are over tightened. also - add grease to all bolt heads before putting them in - especially if its a metal bolt going into aluminum

I'm assuming he means the head is rounded out.

Stripped in my world applies to threads.

if it is an "allen head" use the next size up standard(not metric) size allen socket and pound it into the offending hole….better yet,use a torx socket that will fit and grab the remaining hole.

…and lube or locktite the threads next time,hamfist!

I work on cars and I see a lot of stripped heads.
JB weld is your friend, take a old screw driver or one that you are willing to ruin and jb weld it to the screw/bolt.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I should have mentioned that it's the allen head that is rounded not the threads. I swear I didn't make this super tight as I've done it many times before, it's weird. I think I may have put it together without putting the washer between the screw head and the frame. I think the screw and rocker are both aluminum

I can't get a vice grip on the head or cut a slot across the head as it's counter sunk. I may be able to cut a slot in the other side though. It threads in to a nut and some of the screw sticks out.

I'll try the next size allen key next and then the jb weld but is there a way I can release the seize first? WD40?

find yourself a torx bit that is just slightly too big to fit. tap in lightly. turn.

and next time use sharp wrenches and make sure you have plenty of purchase before spinning. and grease them bolts up.

this:

http://reviews.canadiantire.ca/9045/0543809P/reviews.htm

rounded the head on a bolt on my stem. bought one of these. step 1: use the reamer end to ream out the head. step 2: reverse the bit, slowly drive in the the grabit end counter clockwise, at a slight angle, until it bites and pulls out your bolt. done

impact gun on the nut? or does the nut and bolt spin as a unit? I've never found the "pound in a torx bit" to work well, shit is usually made of cheese anyway.

oh yeah, apparently aluminum oxide is dissolved by ammonia. better pee on it. :D

Drill the head off the bolt and drive it through…

done…..

There's some sort of "spray ice" or something like that that chills anything it's sprayed on. Careful, it's dangerously cold. Anyways, when it's applied to a stuck bolt, the metal contracts so the bolt gets thinner and the hole gets bigger. Spray that stuff on before trying any of the solutions above and it should help immensely.

Anyone know what this stuff is actually called?

add grease to all bolt heads before putting them in - especially if its a metal bolt going into aluminum

how does this work for lets say those allen head bolts that go into crowns. My bolts were replaced with stronger 12.9 grade steel bolts I was given from a bike shop, instead of the regular aluminum ones. Should I be appling grease on the threads? Currently, i have a little bit of medium lock tight on those bolts? Can you apply both grease and lock tight?