Getting levers closer to the bar with Elixir 7 Trail

I prefer my brake levers engaging practically next to the bar. Adjusting them low like this has been easy on some brakes I've used in the past (X0, Hope Tech).

My new Demo came with a set of OEM Elixir 7 Trail brakes. The levers only have reach adjust.

I've dialled the reach adjust as far in as it goes. I've bled the brakes with the block, pistons pushed all the way in. Still, the levers are engaging too early in the stroke for my liking.

Does anyone know of any tricks to get them even closer to the bar?

its always been an issue with the Elixir because the MC (taperbore) has a very limited fluid volume and the timing in the MC is designed to work best with the lever set further out (Avid have their unique lever geometry / pivot orientation)

I've found with many of the lower spec. Elixir brakes that they don't work mechanically well with the lever reach set further in, feeling underpowered and having even more limited pad wear life (to provide a functional brake)

with brakes lacking pad contact adjuster this can make it near impossible to get the setup you want

sorry cannot be more helpful!

Sell to some 15 year old and buy Hope brakes.

Sell to some 15 year old and buy Hope brakes.

This. Except get Shimanos.

Or you could try burping some fluid out of the system. Put your bleed block back in and then crack the bleed port at the lever and let a bit of fluid dribble out. As long as you don't get any air in the system the levers should have about the same feel but contact closer to the bar.

if all fails, apply the old Hayes technique and bend the levers with a wrench. ;)

I have Hope Tech M4 brakes on my trail bike and they're awesome. I can micro-adjust the levers until they're perfect. I'd imagine the new V4 brakes are just as good.

I guess I'm just trying to be cheap, avoiding replacing a brand new set of brakes. I'll let a little fluid out to see if that works, but if what hampstead_bandit says is true, the brakes will feel even more crappy than they already are. lol

Hope V4 or Saints? Hmm. Saints are much cheaper…

if all fails, apply the old Hayes technique and bend the levers with a wrench. ;)

hahaha… that's actually a great idea…

Surprised that no one has given the answer yet.

When you bleed your brakes, leave the pads in (of course being careful that brake fluid never touches them…) and use 3-4 business cards to squeeze the pads on. This sets the pistons further out and removing the free stroke (amount of stroke that doesn't induce braking) in the system. You will get some pad rub, but if done right it is very minimal and will go away as the system settles in. Bleeding the brakes with the pistons all the way in only increase the amount of free stroke and thus the feeling you are experiencing when setting up your levers.

Surprised that no one has given the answer yet.

When you bleed your brakes, leave the pads in (of course being careful that brake fluid never touches them…) and use 3-4 business cards to squeeze the pads on. This sets the pistons further out and removing the free stroke (amount of stroke that doesn't induce braking) in the system. You will get some pad rub, but if done right it is very minimal and will go away as the system settles in. Bleeding the brakes with the pistons all the way in only increase the amount of free stroke and thus the feeling you are experiencing when setting up your levers.

Do the same on my Hopes. But I cut up old plastic credit cards and enough to do it without the pads in. Makes it much easier. :)

Surprised that no one has given the answer yet.

When you bleed your brakes, leave the pads in (of course being careful that brake fluid never touches them…) and use 3-4 business cards to squeeze the pads on. This sets the pistons further out and removing the free stroke (amount of stroke that doesn't induce braking) in the system. You will get some pad rub, but if done right it is very minimal and will go away as the system settles in. Bleeding the brakes with the pistons all the way in only increase the amount of free stroke and thus the feeling you are experiencing when setting up your levers.

^^^this is excellent advice. This technique works very well. YMMV depending on the lever design and how mechanically close the lever can be adjusted in. I've been doing it to formulas (you know the brakes the media liked last year, but hate this year;) to bring the contact real close. It's worth a try before getting rid of perfectly good brakes.

I believe running elixers close to the bar requires less fluid in the mc (achieved through the bleed explained above) - exactly the condition that tends to introduce air into the circuit.

When you bleed your brakes, leave the pads in (of course being careful that brake fluid never touches them…) and use 3-4 business cards to squeeze the pads on. This sets the pistons further out and removing the free stroke (amount of stroke that doesn't induce braking) in the system.

Hmm, doesn't this do the opposite of what I want? I like my levers engaging very close to the bar, in other words, lots and lots of free-stroke.

I think increasing free-stroke is only possible with less fluid in the system, but I can't seem to find a way do that without introducing some air into it and thus compromising the solid feel. Bleeding out a little fluid at the lever port as suggested above didn't really seem to affect anything.

Hmm, doesn't this do the opposite of what I want? I like my levers engaging very close to the bar, in other words, lots and lots of free-stroke.

I think increasing free-stroke is only possible with less fluid in the system, but I can't seem to find a way do that without introducing some air into it and thus compromising the solid feel. Bleeding out a little fluid at the lever port as suggested above didn't really seem to affect anything.

You're correct. You'll want to bleed properly with a bleed block, then reinstall the bleed bolts. Back off the caliper bleed bolt a few turns, and pull the lever ~1/4 through it's stroke before fastening down the caliper bleed bolt again. Make sure you don't let the lever return before tightening that bolt or you'll pull air into the caliper. Have a rag ready at the caliper to catch and wipe up the small bit of fluid that dribbles out. This should remove a small amount of fluid from the hydraulic system without getting any bubbles in there.

In theory it should work, but I wonder if your lever wouldn't return all the way to it's fully open position. I guess it depends on what brake lever you're using.

I like my levers closer than most, but I do know people who run them even further in that I do (which you may be dmc). I set up Elixirs so I can just barely squeeze the lever to the grip. My Elixir 7 Trails are set up this way and have 5 more clicks left on the reach adjuster. Try another bleed?