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Formula Suspension Thread

March 31, 2022, 3:32 a.m.
Posts: 9
Joined: Jan. 13, 2011

It's my first ebike so nothing to compare to, but I'm really enjoying it. I took the travel spacer off the MOD to increase stroke from 62.5 to 65, giving roughly 175mm rear travel, and fitted a 180mm air shaft to the 38. Lots of rocks where I am and the bb was super low, so no negative consequences and I can climb ridiculous things on it. Descending honestly feels so close to DH rigs I've had in the past, must be the chassis weight making it feel so planted along with the coil. I swapped the SLX brakes out for Dominion A4s 220/220 rotors, fitted DH casing tyres and a Tannus in the rear (after trashing a rim already).

No problems with the motor or headset so far at all, having done around 500km and over 20,000m climbing. The Acros headset is probably the worst single feature but I've been super careful when washing the bike and it lives indoors, so has dried out fully between rides even through the winter. I'm expecting it to be the first part to go though. I read in a forum someone recommending using Sugru to plug the port and fully seal around the cables, which I'll most likely try once the first bearing has bitten the dust.

March 31, 2022, 2:38 p.m.
Posts: 241
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017

Posted by: demo7_rider

No problems with the motor or headset so far at all, having done around 500km and over 20,000m climbing. The Acros headset is probably the worst single feature but I've been super careful when washing the bike and it lives indoors, so has dried out fully between rides even through the winter. I'm expecting it to be the first part to go though. I read in a forum someone recommending using Sugru to plug the port and fully seal around the cables, which I'll most likely try once the first bearing has bitten the dust.

As someone who never understood internal routing, if this was otherwise the right choice of bike for me, I'd be finding some stick on cable guides, running them on top of the down tube and putting a normal top on that headset quicksmart.

March 31, 2022, 2:53 p.m.
Posts: 96
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017

Posted by: demo7_rider

It's my first ebike so nothing to compare to, but I'm really enjoying it. I took the travel spacer off the MOD to increase stroke from 62.5 to 65, giving roughly 175mm rear travel, and fitted a 180mm air shaft to the 38. Lots of rocks where I am and the bb was super low, so no negative consequences and I can climb ridiculous things on it. Descending honestly feels so close to DH rigs I've had in the past, must be the chassis weight making it feel so planted along with the coil. I swapped the SLX brakes out for Dominion A4s 220/220 rotors, fitted DH casing tyres and a Tannus in the rear (after trashing a rim already).

No problems with the motor or headset so far at all, having done around 500km and over 20,000m climbing. The Acros headset is probably the worst single feature but I've been super careful when washing the bike and it lives indoors, so has dried out fully between rides even through the winter. I'm expecting it to be the first part to go though. I read in a forum someone recommending using Sugru to plug the port and fully seal around the cables, which I'll most likely try once the first bearing has bitten the dust.

Thank you for the detailed write-up! I appreciate it!

Bike sounds great and the headset doesn't seem like too big of an issue. I agree with velocipedestrian, maybe ditching the internal headset routing when the bearings die.

April 4, 2022, 3:09 a.m.
Posts: 9
Joined: Jan. 13, 2011

Posted by: kavurider

Thank you for the detailed write-up! I appreciate it!

Bike sounds great and the headset doesn't seem like too big of an issue. I agree with velocipedestrian, maybe ditching the internal headset routing when the bearings die.

Cheers! Yeah definitely not the huge deal some make it out to be, as long as you're careful with it and as mentioned there's solutions to the problem.

That's not a bad idea @velocipedestrian. I think I'd need a new brake line if switching the rear to external now though - the hole down near the bb where you thread the hose into the downtube is very tight. I partially stripped the casing off the the hose when first threading it in (luckily that was the very top which I needed to cut off anyway) and it's a whole lot sharper on the inside which I think will make removal impossible without fully trashing the hose. The SLX brakes it came with had a slimmer hose so it wasn;t an issue, but the A4s I fitted have fat hoses. I forgot to mention that little quirk!

I'm with you though - internal routing is dumb. Unless it's fully guided so you just push it though. It's even worse in ebikes when you have to thread the cables through the mess of wires around the motor!

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