fork question (warning road bike content)

so… i just picked up a cannondale SI full carbon fork, wondering if theres anything special i need to know about installing a carbon fork on a road bike vs a standard MTB fork?

thanks in advance

Use a carbon specific blade - more teeth per inch. Is all i got.

Use a carbon specific blade - more teeth per inch. Is all i got.

ok, cool that helps for if i have to cut it down….

anyone got any ideas on TQ specs vs an aluminum or steel?

any other tips and or tricks?

Do not use a star nut. That will dig in to the carbon steer tube and it will break.. Use an expansion plug. The fork should come with one.

so… i just picked up a cannondale SI full carbon fork, wondering if theres anything special i need to know about installing a carbon fork on a road bike vs a standard MTB fork?

thanks in advance

1st question - are you installing it on a Cannondale?

Measure twice, cut once. I would assume you'll need to cut the thing, unless you want a pile of spacers, or the fork is used, and has already been cut down. If you do need to trim that steerer tube, wrap some tape around your cut line, cut slowly and don't put all your weight onto the saw when cutting.

If you don't need to cut the fork down, make sure you have a correct amount of headset spacers. As for torque specs. Refer to the stem manufacturer, and the fork manufacturer to see what they recommend. Or, go to a legit bike shop and pay $10-$20 bucks for them to do it. And also, what everyone said above. Especially the no starnut comment (you might die), or get a really bad charley horse.

Most carbon/lightweight aluminum stems suggest between 5 and 7Nm.

This tool is pretty rad, and it works on a lot of lightweight seat collars as well.

http://bontrager.com/model/08370

Measure the axle to crown compared to the stock fork and make sure you're not altering it by much. Road bikes don't respond well to significant changes here; even a few mm can be detrimental to a bike's handling.

1st question - are you installing it on a Cannondale?

nope….LOL

Measure twice, cut once. I would assume you'll need to cut the thing, unless you want a pile of spacers, or the fork is used, and has already been cut down. If you do need to trim that steerer tube, wrap some tape around your cut line, cut slowly and don't put all your weight onto the saw when cutting.

If you don't need to cut the fork down, make sure you have a correct amount of headset spacers. As for torque specs. Refer to the stem manufacturer, and the fork manufacturer to see what they recommend. Or, go to a legit bike shop and pay $10-$20 bucks for them to do it. And also, what everyone said above. Especially the no starnut comment (you might die), or get a really bad charley horse.

Most carbon/lightweight aluminum stems suggest between 5 and 7Nm.

This tool is pretty rad, and it works on a lot of lightweight seat collars as well.

http://bontrager.com/model/08370

it is used, and ahs been cut down, close to the appropriate height, but may need a bit more…will find out once i get the headset and all that squared away…and yeah i already knew about the no star nut thing…anything that gouges carbon is a no no…LOL

Measure the axle to crown compared to the stock fork and make sure you're not altering it by much. Road bikes don't respond well to significant changes here; even a few mm can be detrimental to a bike's handling.

its pretty close, but it doesnt really matter as its going to be on my frankenbike…LOL its a road bike built off an MTB frame… to a typical road biker the geo is most likely WAY off to begin with…but its one of those odd things that works out great for me…like a 150mm fork on my trek fuel… it doesnt work for many folks, but it does for me….LOL

…(warning road bike content)

:zzz:

Just kidding.

More teetth per inch blade + compression fitted nut. It's been said, but that's all I got.

nope….LOL

I was just asking because Cannondale has done some goofy stuff with their SI components to make them incompatible with other frames. I take that you've already made sure that the crown race/bearing/headset cup all fit up nicely.

One more thing, it's a good idea to leave the steer tube a touch long and use a short spacer on top. Stronger and some manufacturers recommend that. The compression plug fitting helps keep the stem from crushing the steer tube but if you use the torque spec on the stem you should be gold.

I was just asking because Cannondale has done some goofy stuff with their SI components to make them incompatible with other frames. I take that you've already made sure that the crown race/bearing/headset cup all fit up nicely.

its an older model one, standard (old, ritchey, cannondale, and a few others) 1" threadless… i am waiting to get the fork in my hands before ordering a headset, or a compression cap… the bike is currently set up for a 1"threaded stem, so i would believe that a simple headset swap to a newer cartridge bearing would be all i would need…i hope…LOL if not, i can throw it back on ebay, and see if anyone else wants it…there were 5 bidders on it when i got it…

One more thing, it's a good idea to leave the steer tube a touch long and use a short spacer on top. Stronger and some manufacturers recommend that. The compression plug fitting helps keep the stem from crushing the steer tube but if you use the torque spec on the stem you should be gold.

yeah, i am planning on running at least a 20mm spacer if theres enough tube….

its pretty close, but it doesnt really matter as its going to be on my frankenbike…LOL its a road bike built off an MTB frame… to a typical road biker the geo is most likely WAY off to begin with…but its one of those odd things that works out great for me…like a 150mm fork on my trek fuel… it doesnt work for many folks, but it does for me….LOL

This sounds terrible, but to each his own. A typical road rider doesn't know what an axle to crown measurement is, but most would be able to recognize a wonky handling bike.

The fact that you're going to trust a 1" threadless carbon fork, probably a decade old, is more concerning yet :lol: