Posted by: velocipedestrian
Posted by: RAHrider
Posted by: velocipedestrian
Minor dredge.
I've just fitted a used Diamond in 29" boost flavour to the front of my Moxie. I'll ride it at stock 160mm for a while, but I'm thinking of dropping it to 140 or 130 to reduce the geometry change through the travel.
Any hints on setup or traps while changing travel appreciated.
Bonus for the matchy matchy set - Boomslang pedals are anodised the same green as DVO dials.
You need the little spacers to lower the travel - I assume they gave those to you with the fork? Also, a heat gun and some loctite. It's pretty easy, as long as you have a heat gun. Finally, if you are lowering the travel, you may want to increase the progressiveness of the fork (but they don't have spacers). There is a hack, where you add some extra oil but I gave up on this and just ran the fork long. I suspect there are threads on adding oil.
Thanks.
I didn't get any spacers - second hand fork, so I got the old crown race and brake adapter instead (why do people leave the race on the fork?)
I'm happy to tinker with the oil level once I get the rest of the setup dialled, but the other bike has a coil, so I'm more likely to be adding air and OTT for a linear / strong mud-stroke feeling.
Will a hair dryer get hot enough to soften the loctite? There's one of those in the workshop... Wasn't enough to get heat shrink sufficiently shrunk.
You could try SuspensionWerks for the travel spacers, they work on DVO so they likely have them.
As for the heat gun, you may not need it. My Diamond came on a 2020 Ibis Ripmo AF, and it didn't have any loctite involved in the air spring. I believe the loctite was on older models, which use slightly different parts (boost version definitely has the new parts). The pdf air spring service guide on the DVO sight shows taking apart the old assembly with heat, while this video below (also Ronnie from DVO) shows the new boost-version assembly and no heat needed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gl8UoxpEzfk
As for tuning the Diamond, I found that proper balancing of the OTT and air spring pressure are key. I set the OTT high enough that the fork is JUST starting to sag under the bike's own weight, for your given air spring pressure, and that's pretty much perfect. Not enough OTT for a given pressure will give too much feedback at the hands, and too much OTT will create a bit of a wall around the location in the stroke where the OTT stops helping (feels kind of like a high-speed spike around mid travel).
I've also played a bit with air volume. During the 1 year full tear down, I added 5CC extra oil into the air spring. It seems to help, but not as quick-tuning as using tokens etc.
Hope it helps. I've been running mine for two whole seasons now, I can do full damper service and rebuild at home, and it's been working great for me.