DT Swiss Freehub body removal

I need to get the Freehub body off my 240s CL hub.
My 350 body comes any time the cassette is removed, unfortunately the 240s doesn't do
This as well. :lol:

How do I do this?
What tools are needed?

I googled it for all of 30seconds but feel NSMB could just tell me

same as 350 but difficult if end cap is seized in there.
easier to pull it off if you leave the cassette on and use cassette to pull on it
when you do get it out, lightly grease the o-ring inside the end cap before putting it back in

No I have no idea why the 350 body comes off every time I take the cassette off. It's rather annoying tbh.
Outta 3 sets of 240s, a 340 and a 350, the 350 is the only one to do that.

I have 340s and assume it's the same press fit system. I remove the cassette, thread the cassette lock ring back onto the free hub as many turns as I can, cover the lock ring with cloth to protect it and then use a set of vice grips to pull the free hub off via the lock ring. This would be the same as leaving the cassette on, I just find the lock ring easier to grab and I don't care if I mark it up vs the cassette.

Echoing other comments here, both the 440 and 240 I have come apart super easy once you pull the end cap off. No special tools required

I wrap end-cap in thin cardboard (ie non-corrugated)and use locking pliers to pull em off. Once end cap is gone, the freehub just slides off. I use a plastic mallet to tap end cap back on. Has worked for years of 240s overhauls and swaps between Campy and Shimano.

Pressfitting the freehub body back into the hub seems to be difficult. Maybe Im not using enough force?

Are the star ratchets sliding into the machined slots on the hub shell and freehub? It should all just slide together with very little force required.

It is back together now

Super loud with the 36t ratchets in there

Bad ass bike will be bad ass. Tomorrow!:cake:

love the sound of the 240's almost as nice as Kings :)

Can't say I've heard too many kings.
Too many DTs to stop now, plus those Freeza rotors in CL!
I put a Hope 40t on the large bike, noisy business.

240s currently isn't isn't free wheeling.

When I have the wheel in the dropouts the hub will free wheel, but as the QR is tightened the ability to free wheel is lost as QR tension increases. Never had this happen before.

Running DT240s XD w/regular pawls and X01 cassette on DT RWS. I have some slickoleum on the pawls, bearing faces, axle. Anti-seize on the XD threads.

I have it set-up as hub shell, spring, engagement pawls, freehub body, is this correct?

I've gone from having the cassette slip when any force was applied (I couldn't tighten the cassette without it slipping) to one that won't free wheel when the wheel is mounted correctly.

ED.
Figured it out. Had the spring on the wrong side of the pawls. Had an idea that was the issue as I was typing it out. Just needed to get a sandwich in. Was getting close to just going for a road ride instead

240s currently isn't isn't free wheeling.

When I have the wheel in the dropouts the hub will free wheel, but as the QR is tightened the ability to free wheel is lost as QR tension increases. Never had this happen before.

Running DT240s XD w/regular pawls and X01 cassette on DT RWS. I have some slickoleum on the pawls, bearing faces, axle. Anti-seize on the XD threads.

I have it set-up as hub shell, spring, engagement pawls, freehub body, is this correct?

I've gone from having the cassette slip when any force was applied (I couldn't tighten the cassette without it slipping) to one that won't free wheel when the wheel is mounted correctly.

ED.
Figured it out. Had the spring on the wrong side of the pawls. Had an idea that was the issue as I was typing it out. Just needed to get a sandwich in. Was getting close to just going for a road ride instead

Wrenching when hungry, really tired or intoxicated is not recommended…. my thumb and disc rotor can vouch for that…

Im more choked with the 36t pawls that lasted one and a half rides.

Really messed up my ride plans though