Demo 8 build questions

I bought a 2006 Demo 8 frame with fox 5 shock off the NSMB buy [HTML_REMOVED] sell with the intention of swapping all my old bullit parts over, but that's no fun… I want to spend more money!

I plan to keep my 888 , magura brakes, sram shifting, rims and rubber.

I want to replace the following:

- cranks as well as a different dewlie type chainguide.

- seatpost, not sure if it needs to be telescoping?

- handlebar

Any suggestions about what to get? Also which north van shop would be good for the build?

Thanks.

The race face prodigy X-type cranks are really good and cheap, but heavy.
For the chain guide, I cannot say enough good things about the Blackspire stinger, and at ~$30, you can't go wrong. In my opinion, it works better than the e13 DRS.
The syncros bulk bar is strong, stiff and light, I find the Race Face bars to be a bit on the chunky side.

cranks - saint, or xt if you want something light

I second the Syncros bulk bar choice, and yeah Diabolus bars are kinda overkill unless you're really going big

The race face prodigy X-type cranks are really good and cheap, but heavy.
For the chain guide, I cannot say enough good things about the Blackspire stinger, and at ~$30, you can't go wrong. In my opinion, it works better than the e13 DRS.
The syncros bulk bar is strong, stiff and light, I find the Race Face bars to be a bit on the chunky side.

That

Seatpost - thomson: the 367mm length was enough for me to get full extension to pedal, but far enough out of the way to rip - i'm 5 10
Bar - Syncros Bulk or Gain. I used the Gain because i could feel that the 31.8mm bulk was TOO stiff.
Cranks - Saint if your a hacker.

Edit - how much did you pay for the frame?

That

I'm 6-0 and I don't use a telesoping seat post (I climb a lot… too much).

I love my Deity cranks easy installation chainline's good and they are stiff.
I found my cranks kept hitting things (a-frames, anytime I had a steep spine to
go over) on the high bb setting. The Deity cranks don't have so much sticking out
around the spindle so they don't hit as much. Plus, it's only $16.00 to replace the
bearings, though, I haven't had to since I got them (6+months) that's w/ two weeks
in Whistler, and lots of climbing my 185lb body + body armor. That's twice as long
as any other bb I've had.

It's a great bike, I originally swapped all the parts from MY old Bullit too, but have since
put all the old parts back on the old Bullit(except the 06 888 ). If you haven't ridden it yet, get
ready. I found myself going way too fast off jumps I've done a milion times before becasue you
just don't feel the speed as much. So plush.

Nice buy!!!:coo:

He was asking for Dual ring guides, the LG1 is a single ring assembly, and what I have seen of the BS single ring guides isn't so good. The Stinger is the most simple elegant solution I have seen yet, it's essentially the same as the e13 DRS, but with no outer guide plate (Uses a flanged roller with a step for the two rings) and has a larger roller with a larger bearing that doesn't clog like the e13.

yeah that BS Stinger seems pretty nice, and Steve won't shutup about it, so it must be pretty good..

Cranks:
- Saint (heavy but super durable)
- XT (alot of people said they are strong enough for DH)
- Raceface Atlas
Check to make sure that these cranks are compatible with your frame (I believe the Demo has 73mm shell but need a longer spindle to clear the chainguide).

Seatpost - Thomson

Handlebar - I'm currently running an Atlas (31.8, 27" width with 0.75" rise) because they are light enough and not too expensive.

As for building the bike, just build it yourself because nothing is more enjoyable than building your own bike and reward yourself with a cold one when your done.

any other comments on the bs stinger - I'm looking for a guide for my vp free and I don't need the e13 bashring

John, check your PM box.