After some use my procore valves have clogged with dried stans solution. Any advice on de-clogging these valves? I was thinking of dipping them in paint thinner then blowing out the clog with a floor pump.
De-clogging Procore Valves
Hot water and elbow grease.
Yeah standard valve cores. I removed and cleaned them as much as I could as well as inside the valve stem but it's still clogged. Guess you need to replace the inner tube every year when it gets too clogged with goop.
You can actually remove the selector (the special part of the valve) without destroying it. That way you'll get the air out of the tube, even if it is clogged.
You'll be able to clean it and re-insert it.
You'll have to be a bit careful not to destroy it.
Simply take two pliers (with a round grip profile preferably, less likely to damage) and unthread the selector part just like a regular bolt. You need to keep the valve stem part from turning with the second pair of pliers, just grip the stem where it enters the rim hole.
You'll feel quite a bit of resistance at the point where you normally would be able to fill the outer chamber. But simply continue to turn it out and after about two revolutions with more resistance it will turn without resistance again.
It is important that the valve core is still inside the selector while you're gripping it with your pliers, otherwise you'll clamp/bend/crush the threads for the valve core.
Once you have the selector out, you'll understand how it works and why it can be reinserted and be air tight again. It's quite clever.
Be sure to use some good pliers with a gentle grip though. (By grip I mean the part of the tool with which you clamp stuff, I am not a native English speaker…)
You can actually remove the selector (the special part of the valve) without destroying it. That way you'll get the air out of the tube, even if it is clogged.
You'll be able to clean it and re-insert it.You'll have to be a bit careful not to destroy it.
Simply take two pliers (with a round grip profile preferably, less likely to damage) and unthread the selector part just like a regular bolt. You need to keep the valve stem part from turning with the second pair of pliers, just grip the stem where it enters the rim hole.
You'll feel quite a bit of resistance at the point where you normally would be able to fill the outer chamber. But simply continue to turn it out and after about two revolutions with more resistance it will turn without resistance again.
It is important that the valve core is still inside the selector while you're gripping it with your pliers, otherwise you'll clamp/bend/crush the threads for the valve core.
Once you have the selector out, you'll understand how it works and why it can be reinserted and be air tight again. It's quite clever.
Be sure to use some good pliers with a gentle grip though. (By grip I mean the part of the tool with which you clamp stuff, I am not a native English speaker…)
Thanks man.
To confirm, just keep turning the selector counter-clockwise and it will come out? And keep the valve core in.
A drop or two of Tri-Flow into the valve stem after inflation helps avoid gummed up valve stems.
Why slag free swag?:rolleyes:
ummm, as your doctor i recommend against riding with a scaphoid fracture.
Yes, counterclockwise does it.
Thanks for the intel Znarf. Got the valve unclogged with your info and a little creativity with the floor pump. Acetone dip might have loosened it up too.
Cool!
Am i safe to presume I can do this while everything still installed just deflated?
Should work. Just be sure to remove pressure from inner and outer chamber first..
Thanks - wanted to make sure I didn't need to take it all off.the rim too.
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