Carbon Rim Lifespan

I think the key to keeping carbon rims from breaking is preventing rim strikes. If you ride rocky trails, are heavy and like to plow straight through stuff (like I do) you need to either run a lot of pressure (especially in the back) or run Procore (if the rim is low profile enough that the Procore valve will fit).

I love carbon rims for their stiffness and easy of maintenance (basically you never need to true them as long as you keep your spokes from loosening) but it only took me 3 months to break my first LB rim. The 30mm inner LB rims I'm using have a pretty low profile so I was able to run Procore in the warranty replacement rim I received. This has worked out awesome for me in spite of everyone saying Procore causes carbon rims to explode. That said I do generally keep the high pressure chamber around 70 psi instead of going higher. I wish Schwalbe would come out with a version of Procore with a longer stem to work on LB's newer Asym higher profile rims.

Right now I'm swapping between my LB carbons and a set of DT EX471 and love both of them. I honestly can't tell the difference when riding them but the carbon rims are easier to keep straight although the spokes seem to loosen up more often.

So, whats the goto rim tape for tubeless carbon? The stock Giant tape (blue plastic) didn't stick and was too wide and I've been recommended to use Gorilla tape covering only the nipple holes.

tech tip:

scuff the carbon with light sandpaper (tape adheres to the carbon better), wrap Gorilla tape around rim and past valve stem hole, heat up a spare spoke and pierce through hole. Voila!

Cheers JW

I couldn't bring myself to sand them but the hot spoke to melt out the stem hole works awesome!

Another tip I am trying now is to install a tube over the Gorilla tape and pressurize it to squeeze the tape against the rim before setting up the tubeless. What a PITA. My aluminum DT Swiss wheels were a breeze to set up tubeless.

i use GT on the LB carbonium rims and after stretching tightly as possible, then i give it a heat gun treatment to smooth it out and make sure the adhesive is bonded. works very well. poke the valve hole with an awl.

Tesa tape. You can buy it in bulk. Its basically Stan's tape just much cheaper and a lot more of it.

Tesa tape. You can buy it in bulk. Its basically Stan's tape just much cheaper and a lot more of it.

Interesting. I googled Tesa Tape and it looks like they make a bunch of different types, which one are you using?

Just pick the appropriate width: https://www.uline.ca/BL_3109/Tesa-Strapping-Tape?keywords=tesa

I'm firmly in the anti gorilla tape camp now.

Whenever I tape a rim I start opposite the valve stem hole +one or two spoke holes. The tape overlap isn't in the same place the valve stem (More balanced wheel too:lol:)

Additional reading can be found on mtbr wheels and tires subthread, Massive LB thread and tubeless tape thread. LB advised me to not use GT and instead try a really thin tape like Orange to deal with difficult to install tires ( folding bead Maxxis and SG Schwalbe rubber)

^^ or vice versa and use GT on loose fitting rims/tires. I like the gummier seal and floor pump inflation of GT.

I have started using the transparent gorilla packing tape. It doesn't seem to wrinkle up or loose its adhesive like the black GT does. I can usually replace a tire without needing to re-apply the tape. The packing tape doesn't leave adhesive residue on the rim when you remove it either. comes in a 2 inch wide roll that is easy to cut to width while still on the roll.

The only shitty thing about the tesa tape is that it doesn't stick very well unless the rim surface is perfectly dry. Any kind of moisture, dampness, or cold air and it will move.

^^ or vice versa and use GT on loose fitting rims/tires. I like the gummier seal and floor pump inflation of GT.

The only time I have an issue with floor pump inflation is when GT has been used. I seat most all my tires with a floor pump and without sealant first to see if any issues are going to show up.